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my671fordv8 |
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There is no correct ones for an au. if you go down the page it will give you the colours . the first half of the page is cool white or warm white leds then you get blue, green ,amber red/orange and red.these leds are a custom application and you will have to modify your lights to fit them.The driver i use is programable for dual output 80 ma,240,350and 700 ma( milliamps) each led will draw about 2.5 volts so you can use 4 together with the driver to use up 12volts
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bondy99 |
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Age: 65 Posts: 1128 Joined: 13th Sep 2010 Ride: Ford Falcon AU 2000 Series II Location: Crestmead |
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S.Zelinski |
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Hi guys,
I'm a complete novice regarding electronics (and forums), so was looking for some expert advice as to the conversion of all the interior lights in my XR6 to LEDs. Main question - does the conversion to LEDs require any modification to any of the electronics except for the replacement of the bulbs? Cheers, Sam |
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bondy99 |
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Age: 65 Posts: 1128 Joined: 13th Sep 2010 Ride: Ford Falcon AU 2000 Series II Location: Crestmead |
Timmy A and others,
You dont need to place any wires on or solder the copper contact points on the initial set up when replacing the boot light. To test this, I used the original attached wires and placed wires on positive and negative and the entire 5 metre roll lit up like a christmas tree. The factory placed wires is also that's needed, cut the LED strip to whatever length you need. If you need to make another piece then yes you will need to solder wires onto the copper dots at the beginning of where you made the cut. I hope this makse some type of sense to those who have read it. Cheers, Peter |
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TimmyA |
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Peter,
That was what I meant... Theire wires are fine for the first length you need... Once you cut it you have no wires and need to attach your own... This is all fine as long as their wiring is long enough... Put some pics up so we can see your outcome? Cheers, Tim
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bondy99 |
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Age: 65 Posts: 1128 Joined: 13th Sep 2010 Ride: Ford Falcon AU 2000 Series II Location: Crestmead |
G'day Tim,
Yeah thought that might have been. No worries, I'll take a few pics once it's attached inside the boot, Need to find my heatgun for heatshrink or buy another heatgun. Cheers, Peter |
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bondy99 |
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Age: 65 Posts: 1128 Joined: 13th Sep 2010 Ride: Ford Falcon AU 2000 Series II Location: Crestmead |
LED strip installed, connect to existing wires from boot lamp connection going to the festoon bulb and it lights up.
Closed the bootlid , open up rear right door and dropped the back of the rear seat down to gain access to the boot...hmmmm, LED lights did not switched off. Something is not correct. I double checked the wiring, all good, place the original festoon bulb back in and checked through the rear seat to the boot and yes the light was off. Disconnected festoon lamp, reconnected LED strip, once gain checked to see if lights were on or off, and yes the lights remained on. I suspect something has gone astray. Apart from using the existing two wires that powers the festoon bulb, should I be earthing the end of the LED strip? Any advice on this would be welcome. Cheers, Peter |
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bondy99 |
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Age: 65 Posts: 1128 Joined: 13th Sep 2010 Ride: Ford Falcon AU 2000 Series II Location: Crestmead |
After a few hiccups I have finally managed to make my AUII boot area more brighter to look for items at night than using the standard festoon light bulb.
Credit goes to TimmyA for inspiration. I've attahed my pics. Pics shows LED Strip installed prior to switching on. Boot with Festoon light bulb and Boot with LED Strip illuminated. With close up and extreme close up to show brilliance of white. None of my photos have been colour corrected or manipulated and is shown as is without correction. Cheers, Peter
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bondy99 |
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Age: 65 Posts: 1128 Joined: 13th Sep 2010 Ride: Ford Falcon AU 2000 Series II Location: Crestmead |
Here are another 2 photos.
One shows the resistor wired up. I used 0.5W Metal Film 10K 1% Mini. Thanks to TimmyA for that advice , yes it does work.I did not record the voltage as yet. The other pic shows resistor with powered up LED strip. Enjoy. Peter
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FordFairmont |
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Posts: 6113 Joined: 8th May 2007 |
bondy99 wrote: Here are another 2 photos. Thanks to TimmyA for that advice , yes it does work.I did not record the voltage as yet. care to post what the problem ended up being, and exaclty how it was fixed....... in simple man's terms i ask because im waiting on a heap of hongkong LED's and wouldnt know what to do if the light didnt turn off |
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TimmyA |
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happy ... But because I'm too lazy to re-write it I'll just copy in the PM I sent back to Peter...
Without having a sound electrical knowledge a couple of the concepts may be a little hard to grasp for some... So you'll just have to believe me... Quote: haha... Ok... Funny story that one...
What sort of car is it? Do you have a high series instrument cluster with the boot ajar indicator? This happened to me when i installed my high series cluster... Now the circuit is as such: you have a constant power supply to the green/red wire to the led's... The other wire which is is white runs up an into the boot latch... When you pop the boot it shorts this wire to earth which brings the light on... When you close it the earth is broken and the light goes out... That is the 'simple' circuit of the boot light if you follow? Now when you have a high series cluster it taps into that white wire for its ajar indication and it is looking for voltage... So when the white wire is grounded (boot open) there is zero volts on the wire and the ajar light comes on... When you close the boot the is broken on this wire and you have an open circuit... And despite this wire being after the led strip, it goes from zero volts to around 9 or 10 due to the impedance of the led and the cluster... Gives you a boot closed indicator... Now you have a circuit again... The latch switch is opened so no earth there... But you have a circuit from power, through the led, through the white wire, through the cluster, to earth... And this circuit exists with the festoon bulb too... The difference being that you might only have a couple of hundred milliamps flowing... This is enough to light the led, but not the incandescent bulb... This just shows how little current it takes to make an led work compared to the old power hungry filament... Either way, with either lamp, the battery is still going flat at the same rate... Just with the bulb people don't realise it... if you watch the led's through the back seat and pop the boot you'll see them get brighter as they'll have the full 12 volt across them instead of the 3 (12 minus the 9 on the white wire) you measured previously... Again put the festoon in and measure the voltage on the other wire... Still bet you have around the 9 mark meaning the bulb is getting 3 volts... Now the fix is lifting the white wire to 12v instead of the 9 or 10 it currently gets to... To do this... You need to add a resistor between power and the white wire... Which in essence is just between the two wires that feed the light... If you bare a bit back on both wires so you can try some different values of resistor... Make sure the wires don't short to each other of the body... Close the boot and stick your head in through the back seat... Try a 10k ohm first... We use these for this function in circuits... If it doesn't work (led still glows) you need less resistance... I can't remember what size i used now... And without knowing the resistance inside the cluster it makes it hard to work out... Now take a quarter watt resistor with 12 volts across it, to get full load is 580 ohms... As such i wouldn't want to go any lower than probably 2k ohm... Otherwise you're heating the resistor and will burn it out... Try 10k 9k 8k etc... Just work your way down till you have success... Wish i could remember what i used... Was probably 10k... But just not quite sure... Hope that makes sense... Tried to explain the theory behind it anyway... Cheers, tim
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bondy99 |
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Age: 65 Posts: 1128 Joined: 13th Sep 2010 Ride: Ford Falcon AU 2000 Series II Location: Crestmead |
FordFairmont,
TimmyA is spot on with this. Half-watt (0.5w)10K resistor did the trick and was directly soldered onto the positive and negative wires going to the LED Strip, otherwise the LED strip would not turn off when the bootlid is shut. I double checked the operation by peering into the boot space through the rear drop down seat. I'm 100% satisfied it works. Cheers, Peter |
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TimmyA |
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Glad we got there Peter... I don't remember having any issue with picking and trying resistors... Hence why I recommended the "standard" "hold up" (hold up being the technical term for what you're doing) resistor I use... Only ever had one occurrence that I can recall when the 10k didn't work and I ended up with a much much smaller resistor...
Enjoy your new boot my friend Cheers, Tim
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tearlejc |
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I had a similar (electrically) issue where I had to pick a resistor and I was a bit daunted with the idea of going buying and testing a bunch of resistors so I just grabbed a potentiometer (variable resistor), a big heavy duty jobby (you can tell I know all the technical terms... ) but yeh just picked it because it had the range and looked big n chunky. Cost about 3 bucks. Anyway, you can infinitely vary the resistance till you hit the exact value you need, then do one of two things - either just leave it in place or (better) disconnect it without changing the setting and measure its resistance with a multimeter - you then know the exact value and buy just the resistor you need, and you've still got the potentiometer for when you might need it again..
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TimmyA |
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That's a good idea too...
Doesn't phase me I carry sort of every second or third resistor size... And the ones I most commonly use so I have plenty to trial for my designs here... Along with various other components I tend to use commonly... Is very handy... Cheers, Tim
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