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| stixinc |
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ok im not very good at electronics so i need some help if possible please. I am trying to wire up a mid series dome light in instead of the normal single light gli's have. It has an extra green and yellow wire.
I tried to join the 2 green and yellow wires together and then connect them to the other wire that was originally there (same colour) i also connected the black and blue one up to the original. The light didnt work, but i blew the main electronics fuse (the one that controls the locking and ingnition). What did i do wrong? How do i fix this? Would it be expensive for me to go to an auto electricians and get it done and would it be easier? Thanks. Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
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| stixinc |
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Has anyone else successfully done this mod?
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| snap0964 |
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I'd suggest, if you don't already have one, is get yourself a Workshop Manual, be it a Gregory's, Ellery's or what ever - they are reasonably cheap. It's too hard to do electrical work (or mechanical stuff for that matter), without a decent diagram.
I take it you mean the mid series dome light has the dome light plus the two map reading lights. The green/yellow wire is feeding +12v via the Body Electrics Module (BEM)(there are two green/yellow wires - one for dome light,the other for the map lights), the Black/Blue wire goes to earth via the BEM also (to fade the light out, etc) - the fuse you blew feeds this power. I suspect the light assy you're trying to fit has a short circuit, and since the map lights operate anytime you switch them on (the switches simply earth the light) - they may be the culprit. I'd disconnect the light assy, and do a resistance check between it's green/yellow and black/blue wires - you're looking for resistance greater than zero. If you do have a short, you can than isolate it down. If you have no idea what I'm waffling on about here, or are not confident, then by all means try an auto electrician. Hope this helps.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| stixinc |
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yep i might go to an auto electricians, thank you heaps for your help.
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| snap0964 |
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No probs - Be wise to disconnect your new light assy, and replace the fuse, as this powers smartlock - I'm pretty sure you'll find your car will motor over but not start otherwise.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| stixinc |
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Ok today i had another play pulled the old tape off and found that one of the wires that was there wasn't connected to the fitting. I then retried to connect it and it worked so thanks for all of your help.
Also the fitting doesnt fit properly and light gets through the gap (only when map lights are turned on) is there anything i can put there to stop it? |
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| LSD |
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I'm trying to figure out why the light needs two extra wires...
You're talking about the one that has the two reading lights in addition to the main interior light, right? Assuming that all that gets fed to the normal light in GLis is a switched 12V line (I can't remember if it has an on-off-door switch on it off-hand) then all you'd need to add is a single permanent 12V line. Implementing the individual reading lights would be a simple matter of placing a switch in series with the globes (which are wired in parallel) and joining them to the ground of the existing light. The only thing I can think of that the extra line might be is a seperate ground for the reading lights but that makes no sense... {USERNAME} wrote: No probs - Be wise to disconnect your new light assy, and replace the fuse, as this powers smartlock - I'm pretty sure you'll find your car will motor over but not start otherwise.
So smartlock will be boned if the fuse is blown? What if the interior light globe is blown or removed for some other reason? Will that kill Smartlock too?
_________________ Team Argon Silver |
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| snap0964 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Also the fitting doesnt fit properly and light gets through the gap (only when map lights are turned on) is there anything i can put there to stop it? I can only suggest self initiative - maybe make up a gasket or seal, etc.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| uglybob |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: No probs - Be wise to disconnect your new light assy, and replace the fuse, as this powers smartlock - I'm pretty sure you'll find your car will motor over but not start otherwise. So smartlock will be boned if the fuse is blown? What if the interior light globe is blown or removed for some other reason? Will that kill Smartlock too? correct. if you blow the interior light fuse, your car won't start or lock. that fuse is the smartlock fuse as well! 
_________________ R.I.P. Scotty |
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| LSD |
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{USERNAME} wrote: correct. if you blow the interior light fuse, your car won't start or lock. that fuse is the smartlock fuse as well!
I was more interested in whether or not the globe blowing or being removed would have the same effect  That could explain a problem the old man was having with his GLi. Due to an unfortunate accident, one of the doors doesn't shut properly which we believe led to the interior light staying on (long after the regular delay period ) even though all the doors appeared to be closed. As a temp. Fix we simply pulled the globe out. Shortly after the Smartlock "died" and I'm wondering if the two are releated.
_________________ Team Argon Silver |
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| uglybob |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: correct. if you blow the interior light fuse, your car won't start or lock. that fuse is the smartlock fuse as well! I was more interested in whether or not the globe blowing or being removed would have the same effect That could explain a problem the old man was having with his GLi. Due to an unfortunate accident, one of the doors doesn't shut properly which we believe led to the interior light staying on (long after the regular delay period ) even though all the doors appeared to be closed. As a temp. Fix we simply pulled the globe out. Shortly after the Smartlock "died" and I'm wondering if the two are releated.i wouldn't imagine so - the fuse controls the smartlock, not the bulb. i've pulled the bulb out before to replace it, not been able to straight away, and have driven around without a bulb - never had a problem...
_________________ R.I.P. Scotty |
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| snap0964 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I was more interested in whether or not the globe blowing or being removed would have the same effect ;) That could explain a problem the old man was having with his GLi. Due to an unfortunate accident, one of the doors doesn't shut properly which we believe led to the interior light staying on (long after the regular delay period ;)) even though all the doors appeared to be closed. As a temp. Fix we simply pulled the globe out. Shortly after the Smartlock "died" and I'm wondering if the two are releated. A blown globe won't affect it. As one of the doors you describe above doesn't close, this will mean possibly the courtesy light switch for that door is staying closed - making the internal light stay on. The smartlock issue is unrelated.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| snap0964 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I'm trying to figure out why the light needs two extra wires... {USERNAME} wrote: Also the fitting doesnt fit properly and light gets through the gap (only when map lights are turned on) is there anything i can put there to stop it?
Getting back to the light: The mid series light is basically the base light with the two reading/map lights tacked on the front - there are two green/yellow wires supplying power for each (dome light/reading lights) - simply join them together and attach to the car's green/yellow wire. There is only one black/blue wire - join this to the car's black/blue wire, this controls the dome light and goes through the BEM to allow fading (mid and high series BEM's). The reading lights are controlled by their respective on/off switch, which earths power through the light assy frame. Mounting either light assy is via 4 screws, and should fit any model level, be it GLI, Futura, etc. I can only suggest the gaps you have are either because the assy is not fitted properly, or the base may be warped. Hope this helps . . . .
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| nightstalker |
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Having a problem fitting the mid series interior light guys to the EL GLI.Do I have to cut out any of the headlining as at the underside of the base at the front of the light has a raised part which wont let me fit it flush with the headlining.
Thanks. |
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| twirqurky |
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Sidetrack question:
Some people put neons in theri footwells, and since I am considering putting a light in under there, is it feasbilbe to use a map light from a Futura? |
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