|
| 89_NA_Fairlane |
|
||
|
I have an 89 NA Fairlane - had the standard vinyl/woolblend door trims which were not very inspiring..
I bought four doors from an NC Ghia - (as I needed the rear window motor, and the trims were in good condition) - and have installed all four trims. The issue is: The NA had the older flat type door lock knobs with thin metal rods and the NC has the square ones with the thicker plastic rods. No problem on the front door - just replaced the metal rods with the plastic ones and everything fit well. The rears are the problem: the lock mechanism is different and the holes in the door that the L shaped plastic bracket that holds the rod are in a different position. The L-shaped bracket in the NC door is a lot bigger, and the hole is drilled a bit lower and more inwards. At the moment the door trims are on - the door locks are just sitting on the metal rods and are flush with the door sill - (meaning that if you are in the back seat, and the doors are locked you can't get out unless you pull one of the front door locks up) Has anyone ever done the same thing and got it working? I was thinking about drilling a hole in the door to fit the NC bracket, but if an easier solution exists, it would be better. Also - can a switch be installed into the front to control the stock NA central locking as in the newer models? anyone know how it is done? thanks |
||
| Top | |
||
| Lowlane7 |
|
||
|
Not too sure what you mean there man.
I have a NA, and got some ED trims, same thing with the square lock knobs but I trimmed down the sides of my flat ones to make them work, didn't need to swap any rods. If you mean that the plastic rods that will fit the square knobs are too short/won't fit From the lever (Im hoping we are thinking of the same thing here) I'm not sure how to fix that cos only the early models had the flat locks. This may be an issue for me too when I want to put EF trims in mine...
_________________ [color=#004080]Cheers, Jacob. |
||
| Top | |
||
| 89_NA_Fairlane |
|
||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: Not too sure what you mean there man. I have a NA, and got some ED trims, same thing with the square lock knobs but I trimmed down the sides of my flat ones to make them work, didn't need to swap any rods. If you mean that the plastic rods that will fit the square knobs are too short/won't fit From the lever (Im hoping we are thinking of the same thing here) I'm not sure how to fix that cos only the early models had the flat locks. This may be an issue for me too when I want to put EF trims in mine... Yeah I had a bit of trouble explaining because I don't know/forgotten what everything is called. Yeah we are thinking about the same thing.. it is not only that the rods are shorter, they are also thinner. The front doors work - all you need to do is change the metal rod for the plastic one - but the back - no luck. How does it look with the door locks trimmed? I might do this in the meantime until i can be bothered drilling a hole or something. |
||
| Top | |
||
| XRfairmont67 |
|
|||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: This may be an issue for me too when I want to put EF trims in mine... EF/EL rear door trims dont have any lock knobs at all, just remove your rod from the pivot |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| 89_NA_Fairlane |
|
||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: This may be an issue for me too when I want to put EF trims in mine... EF/EL rear door trims dont have any lock knobs at all, just remove your rod from the pivot So how to the people in the back seat get out? In the NA fairlanes the door doesn't automatically unlock when you pull the handle to exit, so I suppose there would have to be a central locking button somewhere... And what if the central locking unit stuffs up? How do you get the door open? I have always wondered this.. |
||
| Top | |
||
| XRfairmont67 |
|
|||
|
they have door handles in the back still,
there's a central locking button in the dash too on the lh panel just below the instruments they should unlock if u just pull the handle? unless the child lock is on. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| 89_NA_Fairlane |
|
||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: they have door handles in the back still, there's a central locking button in the dash too on the lh panel just below the instruments they should unlock if u just pull the handle? unless the child lock is on. yeah i thought it was pretty strange.. I tried pulling the handle from the inside and it wouldn't open.. then I played with the child-safety lock and still wouldn't open unless the door was unlocked first. Might need to take another look... |
||
| Top | |
||
| Lowlane7 |
|
||
|
Okaay....
This is interesting. Firstly the flat knobs do look a little ugly, have a look at them and you'll see what I mean by trimming. There is a solid centre where the rod threads into (if you look "up" it) and either side is hollow, I used clippers to cut away at the sides leavin the centre there for the rod, the top of the knob that you grab is about square, they sit a little sloppy in the square hole but I've had no issues with them rattling or anything. (although if I left the window down a crak a piece of wire could pull them up now) With the back door automatically unlocking when you pull the handle inside. I don't think mine do that either. I know BenJ did the EF trim conversion and he didn't mention any problems with this. I think his is a square lock model. Maybe we need to swap our rear door lock mech to ones off a square lock model? EB2 on I think.
_________________ [color=#004080]Cheers, Jacob. |
||
| Top | |
||
| Lowlane7 |
|
||
|
Just to see if I can do these pics......
IMG_0581.JPG IMG_0582.JPG
_________________ [color=#004080]Cheers, Jacob. |
||
| Top | |
||
| Lowlane7 |
|
||
|
A bastard....
Nevermind. You can delete these 2 if you wanna neaten this up Troy.
_________________ [color=#004080]Cheers, Jacob. |
||
| Top | |
||
| 89_NA_Fairlane |
|
||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: Okaay.... This is interesting. Firstly the flat knobs do look a little ugly, have a look at them and you'll see what I mean by trimming. There is a solid centre where the rod threads into (if you look "up" it) and either side is hollow, I used clippers to cut away at the sides leavin the centre there for the rod, the top of the knob that you grab is about square, they sit a little sloppy in the square hole but I've had no issues with them rattling or anything. (although if I left the window down a crak a piece of wire could pull them up now) Ahh, so not hard to cut them... but it would look a bit weird I suppose... I like the look of the square ones - and I suppose if I could get the door to open by pulling the handle it would not be a problem if the lock knobs sat flush in the door trim when locked. I was just wanting them to sit up slightly so that people in the rear could pull them up to get out - I might check if I can install the NC door lock mechanisms in the NA - and leave the square lock knobs sitting in there.. it will pretty much just be to lock the door (if required), not open it. Quote: With the back door automatically unlocking when you pull the handle inside. I don't think mine do that either. I know BenJ did the EF trim conversion and he didn't mention any problems with this. I think his is a square lock model. Maybe we need to swap our rear door lock mech to ones off a square lock model? EB2 on I think. I will check it out tonight - I have four doors from an NC Ghia V8 - but not sure which series? Hope fully everything fits ok - I will let you know what I find. |
||
| Top | |
||
| Lowlane7 |
|
||
|
If You have the doors sitting there, should be able to play with a screwdriwer and see if the do. Now I'm thinking of it i'm about 99% sure square knob ones do. (unlock off the inner handle)
So yeah, fitting the NC lock mechs and deleting the rod should still work. Central locking will lock/unlock them anyway and if your inside the inner handle will open it anyway. I don't under stand the square knob design, they sit flush once locked and are only useful for pushing down anyway...probably why they deleted them on back doors with the EFs.
_________________ [color=#004080]Cheers, Jacob. |
||
| Top | |
||
| 89_NA_Fairlane |
|
||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: If You have the doors sitting there, should be able to play with a screwdriwer and see if the do. Now I'm thinking of it i'm about 99% sure square knob ones do. (unlock off the inner handle) Confirmed - when you pull the handles on the NC the door unlocks. The only problem is that the central locking unit it right next to the door lock, so I hope I don't need to remove it before changing the locks (drill out rivels). But I will give it a try soon anyway, as I need to change the rear window motor. I envy people with small hands... would make working on cars a lot easier. |
||
| Top | |
||
| Lowlane7 |
|
||
|
Ok, problem solvered!
You can get the mechs out without removing the actuator but you'll probably love doing it so much you'll need to change your pants...several times. Tap out the centre of the rivets first and drill them out, it's a bit of a pain re bolting them in, need one of those little fellers with small fingers...smell like cabbage. Yes, I always end up with sliced up wrists when working on doors. Got some pics on here of the beasty?
_________________ [color=#004080]Cheers, Jacob. |
||
| Top | |
||
| 89_NA_Fairlane |
|
||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: Ok, problem solvered! You can get the mechs out without removing the actuator but you'll probably love doing it so much you'll need to change your pants...several times. Tap out the centre of the rivets first and drill them out, it's a bit of a pain re bolting them in, need one of those little fellers with small fingers...smell like cabbage. I think you have saved me a bit of time here.... Tap out the centres eh.. I was trying to drill a rivet out a few weeks ago and it wasn't going very well - I am sure that if I tapped the centre out it would be quite a bit easier (maybe I need a little man that smells like cabbage to think for me too )  Quote: Yes, I always end up with sliced up wrists when working on doors. Sliced up eh... mate my hands might as well be severed after an afternoon of working inside panels.. get this rash thing from the scraping on the metal, cut fingers, sore fingers... then the back cramps set in, then the headache from the cold/inhalation of too much WD 40... so on. But I don't mind working on the car - cheaper and at least you learn about how everything works. Quote: Got some pics on here of the beasty? Not yet - The car's interior is in pieces at the moment after the amp/sub install. I will put the car back together and take some nice snaps tomorrow hopefully. |
||
| Top | |
||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 18 guests |
