heres my dash

 

 

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IMG_0044[1].jpg [ 356.37 KiB | Viewed 356 times ]

My Instrument Cluster-


My Clock-


My Switches-


My Aircon Switches-

geeze nato they are so bright and clear! luv em, thats wat im aiming for with mine that clear and consistent brightness

geeze nato they are so bright and clear! luv em, thats wat im aiming for with mine that clear and consistent brightness

Sorry to hijack this thread but im dying to know where you got the head unit and dvd screen surround from?

Bought it off here man from another member. Yoou can purchase them off ebay then cut and shut it to make it fit into yours. very easily done but the one i got wasnt done the best.

just wondering, where is the actual globe in the wiper switches? ive had a look enerywhere and cannot find out where it is

You're entitled to your opinion. Be careful when you "nonsense" the opinion of others.
With the material referenced here, I'd say the "reverse voltage issue" with LED's is now a pretty solid, proven, fact. Unless *proven* otherwise

First a definition. Peak Inverse Voltage (PIV) is the spec'ed max reverse voltage.
Mfg's specify a PIV in their datasheets - while most diodes handle fairly high PIV's, most LED's do not. LEDs have a max PIV of around 5v. (refs)

Three problems with your post:
*Reverse voltage won't kill the LED
LED manufacturers say otherwise.
*Most diodes have high PIV specs
True, but LED's don't. They're unusually low (check the datasheets) and the mfg's (Cree, Osram etc) all warn you NOT to exceed the spec'ed PIV.
*Reverse voltage won't exceed supply voltage
I agree, but that's not the point. You assume it takes a PIV => V+ to damage a LED, which isn't true. As little as 6v can exceed specs. (refs)


If the LED's were connected in series then I reckon PIV wouldn't be a problem as they would collectively limit the reverse voltage the same way the forward voltage drop works in series.
I agree PWM is just mark-space which shouldn't be a problem. But I'm not sure if the Ford driver *uses* simple PWM.

FYI, it's not really correct to call reverse/inverse voltage "Back EMF".
Back EMF is the term used to describe the "push-back" of an inductive component (relay, motor, and in an "invisible" way, transformers). In places where it's undesirable a diode is often used to sink this inductive kick (hence the diode built in to most auto relays).
See {DESCRIPTION}

At the end of the day this is all academic - unless someone can check the output with a CRO, we don't know if there's any reverse voltage being applied to the LED's. Or indeed if the peak forward voltage is equal to or exceeds B+. That's what we need to know.

REFERENCES
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Those are some very fine pics. Think about adding some red highlights, especially the needles - apart form the needle illumination being safer and easier to read, red highlights make it look just spot on
Nice work and creds for the time and effort!

Dodgey pic but includes the blue led air con unit

Hey guys noticed the pics from nato83 are the sames ones that I got from the bloke in Melbourne who did my conversion of the speedo cluster, climate control, trip computer and switches. It looks fantastic and matches really well as seen in the pictures, the colour is all evenly distributed and this was my reason for buying them as I had been trying to achieve this for awhile.

yeah man- shane was his name- the rear wiper and demister looks good out of the console but once in it doesnt look much chop- very very faint light- but the air con unit is very overpowering with the clear blue!

Will these work ok?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/10-x-Blue-LED-Da ... 519337b0f3

More to the point, has anyone used, or can recommend or not?

Mate I've got the same LEDs I used up for sale in packs of 10, you can look at my pics on page 2 of here.