Mounted the motors and regs from an XF Ghia and all fits great. The only wiring i have is the factory plug on the motors. I intend to do a two switch per side install using ef/el switches. One in the door where old winder was and another switch in console.
Can anyone give me some advise on wiring them up?? Believe there is a spare space in fuse holder where i will be able to get power. Looking for some basic diagrams before i give up and give to an auto sparky!
Ive done loads of seraching on this but havent really found what i need.

Cheers

If all fails, read the X series tech docos.
PM Waggin and get him to sort out why the pics aren't loading.

That is an awesome Doco. I wish the pics would work tho!!

ive sent u a pm snap.

cheers

Power up from switch goes to which feed on motor? Red? and i assume power down from switch to black wire??

have an el rear power window switch with six terminals. I using a direct connection from battery (well battery charger)

Middle left - Motor connection Red

Middle right- Motor Connection Black

Top Left - 12v +

If i connect Negative from battery to top right or bottom left i can only motor to go one way with the switch.

Anyone Help?? Im completly new at this!!

 

 

Attachments:

WindowSwitch.jpg [ 41.49 KiB | Viewed 324 times ]

Ive tried every combo possible!!! switch will only move motor one way unless i swap pos and neg.

Thanks i appreciate the help. have power etc but the switches have me confused!

Thanks Mate!

Thanks for the referral Ash... I feel loved

Rob, just in reply to your PM

Ok I'll start by uploading this pic of my BA switches... This is how they are wired

...

Ok as you've already noticed there is only two wires to each motor To go up you power them one way... To go down you power them backwards...

Mine is super simple (shown above) as there is only 1 switch per window (only powered in the front)...

If you have two switches per window then it is more complicated in the wiring dept... (like rear windows with driver switches and rear switches)... The reason being... That if the driver presses up, and for arguments sake the kid in the back tries to press down... without interlocking... then you have both +12V and ground each wire... this in my books is a dead short and you'll have the smoke coming out of something...

This is why (shown in my pic above^^^) you will notice the black wires go to 2 terminals... I straight hooked them to ground as these are my main switches, where when fitted to a BA they are the rear switches this is why they have two negative terminals so that the interlocking feature can be implemented and in this case, if the driver presses up and the rear passenger press down control is given to the driver... EDIT: ***This is how I'd thought it should be wired... The EF/EL Ford book shows that when the drivers hits up and the passenger hits down the window simply stops moving... even with the master switch off it will not give control to driver with opposite rear switch held down, looks like the only way what I'd do is possible is with two DPDT relays***

Because you're having two switches I would highly recommend adding in this interlocking feature to avoid any "mishaps", this is also noted in modern cars that the windows will not work unless both the master and the slave switches are plugged in due to the interlocking...

For power to your windows there should already be a relay for this... On the ED is was located up behind the relay/fuse box (accessed by lying on your back up above the accelerator pedal...) The wire your looking for if you have a power window relay is a grey whire with a yellow trace (commonly protected in the fuse box by a circuit breaker (shiney steel thingo)... My ED is base model and even it had the dash loom with power window relay there... Otherwise I recommend installing a relay off a 25amp capacity wire from the battery with a 30amp fuse for protection...

Depending whether you want to keep it simple and only use 1 switch or still want to use two switches (being a ute it is really a waste using two switches for each window, just get power window door trims)...

If you still want to use two switches I'll draw it easier to explain than the ford diagram for your switch wiring... However without all the gear here to buzz out the switches and see how they work, drawing it up will be a bit hard... If its one switch simple... The two pins you have left, join them both to negative (like my pic) 1 power wire, 2 negative wires, 2 wires out to window motor...

Let me know what your doing... I'll help as best I can...

Cheers,
Tim

Anybody reading this with 4 power windows... Can you tell me exactly what happens when the rear switch is held down and the master is held up? Do the windows just stop, and what model car are you testing on... Might be one for you Ash in your territory (if it has 4 power windows)... As I'm only going by the diagrams... It might be different in reality... Looking at the pics, the window should stop moving altogether, unless in recent models they changed the behaviour...

Cheers,
Tim

That's cool... I hope I haven't confused him now when he's back online reading it... I've never really looked into two switch set ups before as I never needed one...

Its is doable but is more indepth to be perfectly safe...

Even on your territory if your in the front passenger seat it has a slave too so it doesn't have to be a rear seat thing in that... Only in E series where both the passenger and the driver share the master switch...

Cheers...

I will go with a one switch per side as i think it will be easier and like you said i only need the two switches.
ok so have motors in and an el rear window switch. what else do i need is the first question!

really appreciate your help, played around with it heaps today and became so frustrated!! not good before a 14hr nightshift....

i was trying to get it to work just on the bench with no relays etc... im assuming this isnt possible??

thanks again ash and tim

sent you a PM...

The relay in the std Ford system is only for powering the whole circuit (when you turn the car to "on" it powers the relay which supplies power to the whole power window system)

Which as I said on the ED lives up behind the fuse box inside the car, if one of the 4 wires is a big grey with yellow trace wire coming out, then this wire is the one you need to pick up off as this is the power window wire... (there is only relay back there on the ED)... According to the EL wiring diagrams the wire is still grey with yellow on them as it is on the ED, where the window relay is though on the EL i don't know (assuming they left it in the same spot after the ED models?)

Cheers,
Tim

Ill check wiring in the morning when i get home. Not sure if XH wiring is the same as EL or it could be a modified version. Snap says there is a spare spot in fuse holder on the XH so i will use that.

i assume from your drawing you have a transistor and resistor for the illumination only?? and this is activated with the headlights.

Rob,

That is correct...

Just see if there isn't already a power windows fuse or C/B in there... The ED's are on the very right hand side and have a PWR WDO fuse already in them...

If its there... The I wouldn't worry about trying to clip that terminal into the spare hole, coz I'd say its got the relay and all... You just need to investigate the plugs behind the right kick panel for a big grey with yellow trace... saves heaps of time stabbing around trying to get that spare terminal into that hole...

For others following this, this is what I came up with for using just the rear switches to power the windows (no interlocking as its only one switch)



This made up with information from the ford wiring diagram with EF/EL wire colours...

Cheers,
Tim