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| EBGizmo |
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Quote: Will this still work if the smartlock isn't bypassed but the key is in the ignition? Yes. As long is it is turned to Ignition, but this would leave your ignition on all the time unless you use a second barrel. read on for more info on how to bypass smartlock: http://www.fordmods.com/forums/documents.php?doc=83 Quote: Also, do all the positives come straight from the battery? If not, where do I connect them to?
Anything with just a positive symbol in a circle needs a constant positive supply. Note that the thick black lines need a wire guage equal or slightly greater than the original ignition wire. You could run a wire from your battery, yes. On the Kill Switch Circuit diagrams, for example, I have indicated next to appropriate places that the positive must be an IGN positive only.
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| braidy |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Quote: Will this still work if the smartlock isn't bypassed but the key is in the ignition? Yes. As long is it is turned to Ignition, but this would leave your ignition on all the time unless you use a second barrel. read on for more info on how to bypass smartlock: http://www.fordmods.com/forums/documents.php?doc=83 Quote: Also, do all the positives come straight from the battery? If not, where do I connect them to? Anything with just a positive symbol in a circle needs a constant positive supply. Note that the thick black lines need a wire guage equal or slightly greater than the original ignition wire. You could run a wire from your battery, yes. On the Kill Switch Circuit diagrams, for example, I have indicated next to appropriate places that the positive must be an IGN positive only. So, if I were to use a second barrell hidden with the Smartlock loom plugged in, and the key switched to ignition, and kept my current barrell, would that work?
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| gryph |
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This is a lil confusing.... Now if i build that thingy on the 1st page will it work or do i have to bypass the smartlock too??? If so do we have a diagram for that?? (yeah i kno nothing about electronics but i can build it
 ) Also will this work on an el, as i just noticed it says for an ef.
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| braidy |
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Bought another barrell, plugged the Smartlock loom in, and Smartlock still activates when the barrell wthout the Smartlock loom gets turned off, even though the 2nd barrel is still on. Does it need to be provided power or something? My car is out of action, and would really appreciate some help!
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| EBGizmo |
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Braidy: I've never tried the second barrel version myself, i've only done my own bypass by disassembling my original barrel. Its possible you need to have the secondary barrel (the one providing the BEM signal) connected to a relay so that it is only sending the code with ignition on. I think I saw a write up on this problem before - do a search.
Gryph: The above diagram does NOT disable smartlock for you. You will need to refer to my other docco to do this, or purchase a bypass module. The instructions for making the DIY bypass are quite easy (and most importantly, FREE) if you are half decent with a soldering iron. If someone can take a picture or good clear scan of their ignition PCB, i'm happy to point out exactly which track needs to be cut to get it functioning as required. Unless of course someone in Bris wants to donate a barrel to me, then I can do it myself and provide better pics! You will of course get your barrel back, and if it all works as planned, you'll have a fully functioning bypass ready for connection (No promises on the fully functioning bit - lend it to me at your own risk!). Please note, I won't be doing this as a hobby for more than one person, though! This information is all free, but labour is not (i simply don't have the time)
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| EBGizmo |
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OK - Quick tech support update!
Anyone building this for ea-ed you might want to hold off. Currently experiencing an issue with the anti grind feature. I think this is due to the alternator light outputting a lot less than 12V on the box cars, whereas the signal should be full battery volts on EF onwards. A 6V relay may be required for these cars to replace relay 5. Will need to measure voltages on the alternator light, and also check polarity. Double checking this problem now with someone who is building this on their ED. Updates to follow when this is done. Can someone send me a schematic that has the alternator light circuit in it? I need to know where it gets its power from. Since its a lot dimmer than the rest, its probably a direct feed from the LAMP output of the alternator, but I need to be sure.
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| scar76 |
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Age: 48 Posts: 259 Joined: 7th Sep 2005 Ride: BA mk11 XR6T UTE ,v8 fairmont gh Location: perth |
It would be great if this could be an off the shelf module you could purchase and install like a shiftkit, 3 wires and your done, maybe 1 day, would make a killing raking in the money.
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| EBGizmo |
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I'm not in the business of "making a killing". I'd rather keep the information free to promote DIY'ers.
I can't stand watching people going to mechanics to get oil/filters etc changed when labour can be so easy if you just give it a try yourself. <rant aborted>
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| scar76 |
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Age: 48 Posts: 259 Joined: 7th Sep 2005 Ride: BA mk11 XR6T UTE ,v8 fairmont gh Location: perth |
Mechanically is fine for me, Thats my trade, but my limitations are electronics very costly when you get it wrong, and Im lazy, electrics mess with my brain lol.
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| EBGizmo |
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Thats why relays can be cool for beginners. You can "see" whats happening and understand it more. The first computers were basically relays that latched on to give a memory function. I'd like to see an EEC-V built like that tho
"Nice camper van - bit big isn't it?" "Thats no camper - thats my BEM!"
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| scar76 |
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Age: 48 Posts: 259 Joined: 7th Sep 2005 Ride: BA mk11 XR6T UTE ,v8 fairmont gh Location: perth |
{USERNAME} wrote: Thats why relays can be cool for beginners. You can "see" whats happening and understand it more. The first computers were basically relays that latched on to give a memory function. I'd like to see an EEC-V built like that tho
"Nice camper van - bit big isn't it?" "Thats no camper - thats my BEM!" lol  Kind of like when stereo installs became complicated, 4 wires are a thing of the past lol.
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| EBGizmo |
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For Braidy... the 6V SY-4058 pinouts. Let me know how it goes.
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| braidy |
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I've got it all working in the ED, thanks to EBGizmo's help.
I ended up using a 6v SPDT relay as RLY5 because the alternator light was dipping in voltage, which according to EBGizmo meant that the relay would flick on and off and not let the car start. So switched the relay, and it all worked perfectly. Only problem, which is a small problem, is that sometimes the pulse isn't long enough for it to start. But just trying it again and it starts happily. If there are any EB/ED owners who want to get this happening, I'm happy to help out if there's any questions, but all credit goes to EBGizmo for pushing me in the right direction and helping me out. Also, I reckon this should be made a sticky. Cheers again EBGizmo!
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| EBGizmo |
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Now that the 6V relay is working, you can go to a larger cap value and the relay will remove any remaining crank signal once it kicks over and your alternator light goes out.
This usually occurs almost at the same time as the engine wants to overspeed the starter, but do a visual check with your key first. Generally, fit a cap that is enough to crank till it starts, plus half a second more for some grace.
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| shannonwulff |
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this is how version 2 of mine turned out, no need to cut any ignition wires, just splice into them, and you can start it with the key if you really want to. its cool cause you only press one button and off you go. no keys, no unlocking of anything.
also, i wired the boot release button to provide +12v to the boot release solenoid.
_________________ When you do things right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all. |
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