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| get EFd |
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When soldering the resistors onto LEDs for the dash do they need to go on negative or positive or does it really matter?
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| Andrew J |
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Resistors dont matter! They also have no polarity, so it doesnt matter which end is positive or negative.
_________________ The problem with America is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
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| chunkz |
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just make sure its consistent so you know which leg is pos or neg
caus l.e.d are only one way
_________________
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| the_scotsman |
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You need to solder the resistor to the longer leg of the LED.
Its the one OPPOSITE the little flat edge on the LED. |
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| get EFd |
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Thanks scotsman.Thats handy.
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| cooki_monsta |
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well you dont actually need 2, but its better to have it before the led, hence on the long leg rather then after it, on the short leg, so yea solder to long leg, which is the +ve side
_________________ Mods: sprint kit, steeda short shift, svo lip, El handles, El Air intake, au xr wheels, lukey cat back, jbl focal and pioneer sterio <--- Sold |
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| autickfordfairmont |
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Could you just save the hassle by cutting the wire and putting it on the Illumination wire before it even enters the cluster???? The same would apply for Elec window illumination in AU's, put it before on the actual wire entering in?? would this work
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| simo_42 |
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needs to be on the positive side(longer leg)
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| cooki_monsta |
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au, no u cant, cos ur ill wire is +12V and ur leds only run on +3V so u will blow the led, hence the need for a resistor
_________________ Mods: sprint kit, steeda short shift, svo lip, El handles, El Air intake, au xr wheels, lukey cat back, jbl focal and pioneer sterio <--- Sold |
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| autickfordfairmont |
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{USERNAME} wrote: au, no u cant, cos ur ill wire is +12V and ur leds only run on +3V so u will blow the led, hence the need for a resistor
yeah but i mean on the 12v line coming into the cluster or the power window illumination, to reduce down to 3 volts before it gets to the LED's. Obviously you would need to work out the correct resistance, but but do it before it goes to the LEDs |
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| A_Boring_Username |
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Possible, but you can't use the same value of resistor as you would for a single LED. Also for lots of LED's power dissipation could be a problem. If you wanted to do that, build a switchmode regulator.
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| get EFd |
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Ok time for an update!
I have cut the long ends off 16 LEDs and soldered cut resistors on them. And have saved the legs. Also preped the heat shrink tubing for the LEDs. Ill be pulling the dash on saturday.It will be the first time i have removed the dash so ill be doin it very carefully,might take sum time but i dont want to break anything.(Uglybob tells me he has had 1 off in 20mins).I dont think ill be breaking that record. 
I will b in the chat portion all saturday morning so if i get into any trouble and need advice , i hope some1 will b there to lend a hand. And if i totally nuff it up ill puting the word out "HELP WITH DASH" reward"BEER" 
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| NFGhia |
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I guess I'm a bit late here as it looks like you've got it sorted.
But I guess for anyone else here's a pic of how I did mine. 
I just poped out the clips in the holders and soldered the Led's on and poped 'em back in... 
And here's the before and after shots. 
_________________ The TORQUE Monster project begins!
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| get EFd |
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Soldering into the bulb holders...ok i got that but what about the the other globes like aircon and demister button?
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| NFGhia |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Soldering into the bulb holders...ok i got that but what about the the other globes like aircon and demister button?
For those push in type of globes I used a small piece of PCB cut to the right width and soldered a resistor and led to that.. This pic is out of my door light but just use a single led so it fits back in the hole..
_________________ The TORQUE Monster project begins!
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