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| TROYMAN |
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sometimes these simptoms are caused by dry solder joint inside the smartlock module or a poor connection through the plug..
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| BenJ |
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Yes, they are a real joy to change. NOT.
Hopefully all will be well from now on. Cheers BenJ
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| 94edfutura |
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Think i got similar problem, just that i haven't replaced the smart lock yet, when the car doesnt start i tap where the smart-lock it and it starts straight away. I've been finding it hard to get a replacement smart lock module.
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| flashford |
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I had a similar experience with my EB Falcon 93 Wagon. You may read my thread at fordforums I'm "fordflash". Basically pull out smartlock unit (plastic box in red colour just over the handbrake in my car. I deep resoldered all joints at back of PCB where there was a number, these joints are representing the pins of the blue colour relays on the other side of the board. All ok for weeks now. It was giving me the same dead none start problem just about a few times a day and getting worse, I would temporarily fix by hard nocking with my fist on the dashboard just over the handbrake area. Regards
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| boonts yeah |
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the same sort of thing happens to me alot but all i do is move it from park all the way down to 1st then back up and it starts. the inhibotour (sp) switch is what my old man thinks it is
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| TimmyA |
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my quote from this post:
{DESCRIPTION} {USERNAME} wrote: The orange box is the smart lock module...
The black box beside the cd player is the BEM... I know this because smartlock "immobilises" the car and thats the orange (red) module... When I was playing around with my variable wipers you'd assume the intermittent timing is controlled by the BEM yes? Well when I unplug the black box the wipers loose their Int function... Now I fixed my smartlock module and its not dry contacts at all... well not in my case... unless someone else has fixed dry contacts? There is about 4 or 5 relays on the board... The one that immobilises the car is a relay that is two relays in one (not sure what the other half does)... But its two coils, and two sets of SPDT contacts. All i did to fix it was unsolder it and turn it around (180 degrees) and solder it back in virtually swapping the relays in the two circuits over... (whatever the other one is?) and I've never had a problem with it since... My opinion of it is that the relay was not rated high enough of was of a sub-standard quality... and as such causes these problems... I wanted to swap the relays for solid state relays of a higher current capability... This was you have no mechanical moving parts and they last forever due to no mechanical wear... I'll get around to this one day when I have a spare 30 or 40 bucks to do it as solid state relays aren't cheap and you require two to do the job... and feel like screaming and arguing at the smartlock module when it wont come out from around the hand brake... Hope this provides some insight... But like I said the two I had here weren't dry joints but d**k relays... Either with gunk in the contacts and they don't close or just plain simple mechanism wear and they wont engage... Cheers...
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