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| aidenjacobmum |
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hi i was just wondering how hard is it to take out and put back in a interior roof lining?( i'm purchasing a brand new one) and where should i start, is there any tricks i should know first?
Not sure if it makes any difference but just incase : it's for a 97 EL Fairmont.
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| MadMatt |
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How much was the new 1?
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| Dansedgli |
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Take out all of the plastics that go along the roof line.
Then there are push in type fittings holding it in. I used a pair of nail pliers to remove them. It was really hard to get them out without them. |
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| ringastinga |
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really interested in the roof lining where u get it and how much??
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| EBGizmo |
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Go to clarks rubber - there, you can get roof lining, and a can of the 3M tac adhesive. Works great. Just make sure you remove all the old foam underlay properly with a SOFT brush (a hard one will rip away at the felt underneath the foam and leave pit holes).
All up a DIY job will cost you no more than $50
_________________ EF II Sedan
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| SBR |
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pretty cool job , been meaning to do this after mine droped after coming out of the spray both. were there any dramas with the adhesive coming through the material? also this would make a good doco.
cheers
_________________ " If you aint first, Your last!" |
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| EBGizmo |
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No, the 3M stuff comes out like silly string, and adheres almost immediately. Its a tac adhesive, so you spray it on both sides, then bring them together. It does not seep through at all. Just make sure you remove all the old foam as in the pics. It pretty much rolls off with no effort at all if its 10 years old like mine
What I did to prevent bubbles or stretch imperfections, was lay the new material on the roof lining, line everything up properly leaving at least 3cm overhand around all edges. I then rolled back half of the lining, sprayed both surfaces, and carefully rolled it back a bit at a time, smoothing as I went. Once one side was done, I rolled back the other side and did the same. You want to put as much on as you can, and work as quickly as you can for the best stick. One tin is plenty and there is usually excess left over. Don't attempt to spray the entire side in one hit. Roll back half the lining, then spray the adhesive on both sides in a band of about 10cm. Roll this section back and then spray on some more. If you try to do it in one hit, it may have already dried by the time you are ready to stick it on. The one thing to remember is DON'T trim the new material to exactly the same size as the lining! The area just below the "old man handles" actually has some lining missing, and if you don't leave 3cm of overhang in this section in particular, you will be left with two gaping holes in the back seat section above those two handles.
_________________ EF II Sedan
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| Macca |
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Where did you find a new one? I am interested too.
I have two wagons that need new ones, I know one is totally rooted front and back, it isn't just the felt just coming off, the other one I have to have a better look at and might do this fix to it.
_________________ 93 Ford Maverick LWB automatic petrol guzzler (gets stuck where Deli doesn't, big pumpkins |
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| XPFalcon170 |
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i just pulled mine out and took it down the road to the trimmers to get it retrimmed. cost $160 for the roof lining and the four door cards on the el to get retrimmed. Cause the roof lining cloth is glued to the big moulded piece, the hardest part was just getting in in and out of the car. Besides, don't have the skills or time to retimm myself.
_________________ 84 4runner.......needs boost |
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| EBGizmo |
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General brooming skills are all thats really required - if the lining is sagging, the job is already half complete, as the foam has already desintegrated.
_________________ EF II Sedan
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| hans hartman |
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aidenjacobmum wrote: hi i was just wondering how hard is it to take out and put back in a interior roof lining?( i'm purchasing a brand new one) and where should i start, is there any tricks i should know first? remove all screwed in accessories,sun visors,grab handles,interior light and the top of door pinch weld covers all four,remove the front windscreen cover strip,try and leave the rear quarter covers in.drop front seats down flat,ease the roof lining back and try to lower it down to dash top and ease forward,it will release from rear,lower to lay on seats,the light wiring may be taped to it-if not,open the left side doors---you have to twist and jiggle the top to come out the left rear door.place all screws and bits in a container--you will loose or misplace them.replacing the new one is the same---make sure you centre it and it may not have screw holes,use a small needle to find the body holes.take your time and it will be good-2 people is easyier.
Not sure if it makes any difference but just incase : it's for a 97 EL Fairmont.
_________________ R.I.P HANS HARTMAN |
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| aidenjacobmum |
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MadMatt wrote: How much was the new 1?
it was $188.00, i called my local ford spare parts dealer. Not sure if you'll have any luck though, cos i was told they are no longer being made, was also told i purchased last one for a sedan in australia. but it doesn't hurt to make a phone call. it that doesn't work, i also phoned a couple of my local upholstrers and was quoted between$150.-$200. for a repair ( with new material, and fitted back in for you)
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| aidenjacobmum |
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EBGizmo wrote: No, the 3M stuff comes out like silly string, and adheres almost immediately. Its a tac adhesive, so you spray it on both sides, then bring them together. It does not seep through at all. Just make sure you remove all the old foam as in the pics. It pretty much rolls off with no effort at all if its 10 years old like mine
What I did to prevent bubbles or stretch imperfections, was lay the new material on the roof lining, line everything up properly leaving at least 3cm overhand around all edges. I then rolled back half of the lining, sprayed both surfaces, and carefully rolled it back a bit at a time, smoothing as I went. Once one side was done, I rolled back the other side and did the same. You want to put as much on as you can, and work as quickly as you can for the best stick. One tin is plenty and there is usually excess left over. Don't attempt to spray the entire side in one hit. Roll back half the lining, then spray the adhesive on both sides in a band of about 10cm. Roll this section back and then spray on some more. If you try to do it in one hit, it may have already dried by the time you are ready to stick it on. The one thing to remember is DON'T trim the new material to exactly the same size as the lining! The area just below the "old man handles" actually has some lining missing, and if you don't leave 3cm of overhang in this section in particular, you will be left with two gaping holes in the back seat section above those two handles. do you recomend the tac adhesive or should i use something else, even though i've brought a new one i'm still going to have go at this as our ef also need doing, and i could only get the one.
_________________ Q:Why do streets have footpaths beside them?
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| aidenjacobmum |
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EBGizmo wrote: Go to clarks rubber - there, you can get roof lining, and a can of the 3M tac adhesive. Works great. Just make sure you remove all the old foam underlay properly with a SOFT brush (a hard one will rip away at the felt underneath the foam and leave pit holes).
All up a DIY job will cost you no more than $50 thanks for the pics, how long once finished did you wait before you put it back in?
_________________ Q:Why do streets have footpaths beside them?
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| aidenjacobmum |
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sorry but i have another question, i was told that if you glue or redo your lining yourself, once summer comes it starts to heat up the glue and comes undone sooner than you'd like( the reason i bought a new one), has this happened to anyone thats redone their own? how long has it been since it was done?
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