This has been asked a lot in the past and the answers have always been that no you cant do it.


I thought there had to be a way to do it, people with LPG like bling to you know.

So here it is.
3 inch 304L stainless steel intake pipe with integral 45mm ring type mixer.
Un polished at this stage and still needs the breather fitting before going on my AU.

great job,will look fab.any slaves to polish it?

I've got 6 inch polishing wheels on a bench grinder to do it. It's messy, but doesn't take to long

have to agree,messy.i polish a lot of my car parts for chrome plating and brass trophies at work-in my arrrrrrrrrrrh spare time,between jobs,which is bs,company jobs.

Will it only look good or make an improvement on power?

I'm doing to try and improve highway over taking power for my AU.

It's a larger mixer then what's currently on the car and the shape of the venturi is far far better.

I've been having trouble ever since the car was converted with it going lean it above about 3500rpm.
I have tried a lot of stuff and fixed A LOT of lazy installation (My car was converted by some one els before I got into LPG work)

The latest theory is that current mixer is undersize, which is creating two problems, first off the obvious, It's choking the motor.

The second and this is the theory bit that i'm trying to prove/disprove.
Because the mixer is too small I have to tighten the sensitivity so much and the peak adjuster the in the gastec stepper is wound down so far to keep good control of mixture at low RPM that there gas isn't enough gas flow at high RPM.

So this mixer is a better shape and is larger, which will give a weaker signal at lower RPM. This will let me loosen off the sensitivity and a low me to better set the peak adjuster.

It's something that was briefly covered while I was doing the training course, but we never got into much as most cars run 'ok' with a small mixer and most people are not aware of the problem and have been driving for years like that. I've bought it up with a few customers and most those get quite upset and defensive about it. So know I just leave it along. My own car how ever I'm always willing to try and fix problems, even if it I have to try stuff that may not work.

I fitted the intake up today. I'm still not happy with the way it done though. The the pipe from the air box up the to 90degree factory bend doesn't sit right, but it's good enough for now.

First thing is on petrol it no longer hit a brick wall at 4500rpm like it used to, It will happily rev right out.


So I started on tuning the LPG, It kept going lean, no matter I did and after a while it started going lean lower and lower in the revs with less and less throttle opening.

Then I looked at the trip meter and realized it had done 400km since the last LPG fill.
The gauge stopped working a few weeks ago, so I've just been watching the trip meter.

As would be my luck the tank was empty and only drawing vapor out at very low pressure, which is the reason for it going lean.
I'll fill it up later tonight and will get it tuned during the week, then it's getting a long 1000km round trip next weekend.

I also found my el hit a brick wall at 4000 rpm, I fitted up an xr6t snorkel and problem slightly solved, its definatly stronger up top, still could be improved though

Filled it up after work today, hooked up my wide band O2 sensor for the trip home.
Results are mixed, It noticeably better then the old mixer, off idle response is just as good as the old mixer and you can stand on the throttle from a stand still.

light acceleration is fine, medium is fine, cruise is good with the gastec still working well.

Full throttle is still being a pain, It still goes lean at high revs, although now get about 500rpm higher before it goes lean.

Over all i'm happy with it. Makes more power on petrol and drive well on LPG.
The lean at high revs seems to be a converter issue, this car has had a problem with it ever since it was converted about 3 years ago. I have two options, first is to shim the first stage spring on the current Landi LSE98 converter to try and squeeze a little more top end of it. I will probably try tis first as it's only 4 bolts to undo and it's easily reversible.

The second is replace the converter. In the end I think I'll do this anyway because it won't cost me anything. I've got a bunch of OMVL R90E converters on the shelf along with everything els i'll need to swap from the Landi to the OMVL

Is it worth also cutting the front of the airbox or not much gain???

well i was going to cut mine out and run some old radiator hoses out of the air box and into the back of the head light area to try and get some cold air in there but since ive bought this snorkel its been good enough to keep me happy until i fix my clutch, if you wanted to buy an xr6t snorkel i got mine for $50 delivered brand new, but the thermo fan cover needs some chopping to fit on properly {DESCRIPTION}

Ended up fitting an R90E last night. Couldn't raise the 1st stage pressure enough to cure the high RPM lean with out making the idle hard to control.

Lean condition is fixed and there is plenty of power above 3500rpm now and it will happily rev right out.

One step closer now bud!!!

Whats next to sure issue???

I probably worded that wrong. I should have said "Couldn't raise the 1st stage pressure on the curent Landi enough to cure the high RPM lean with out making the idle hard to control."

So I fitted the OMVL R90E and the problem is gone.

Added, I hacked together a mount and vapor hose to get it to work last night as it was getting late.
But now that I know it works properly I've ordered the proper converter bracket and vapor hose from Sprintgas.

Just reporting on how things are going.

It drives perfectly, and fuel economy has improved too.
Just need to find time to fit the new converter mounting bracket.
Probably be about a month away yet, I have a BF wagon in this weekend for an Orbital Liquid injection conversion, them family stuff next weekend then the Townsville 400 the following weekend.