Hey Murf thanks for the heads up on the tap water, got myself some dist. water tonight and I will be cleaning up the plates (sanding clean) then soaking them in white vinager for awhile to sterilise them (so to speak)

I will do the same tests when everything is clean and if it dont bother anyone I will post those results too

cheers AL (and I will do something about the extenders shortly - ta mate)

Bullet The plates can be can become contaminated by touch and running them in tap water. When I assemble my plates I use gloves. The oil off the skin will reduce the surface area reaction with the electrolyte. You will need to sand them. Note once your happy with your setup and the cleaning with vinegar just make sure you wash everything down before assembling with the distilled water.
Note baking soda looks good but actually produces CO2 and CO to start with and then turns to a white powder over time which is a weak caustic mix in the end. Stay with sodium hydroxide (caustic) or get hold of potassium hydroxide which is slightly better.
Hey Garth what new on your side. I feel like we are stealing your thread here.

Ok I have run the tests with Distilled water and caustic soda

I have cleaned all the plates up with a sanding disc at work, then soaked them in vinegar overnight (friday) washed them in dist water then run all the tests early this morning

The blue is the tap water and caustic test results

MIXTURE
500ml bottle of tap water and 1 full teaspoon of caustic soda, then I use a measuring cup to measure out the mixture into the booster - then add 1.5 ltr of cold tap water.
(I will do the same test with dist water later after I clean the plates up)

tap water ...mixture ...amps(cold) ...amps(warm) ...bubbles per min
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.5 ltr.........15ml..............3.................4...................44 (13mm hose)
1.5 ltr.........20ml..............4.................5...................56
1.5 ltr.........25ml..............5.................6...................65 (hot) 78

These below are dist water and caustic

MIXTURE
500ml bottle of dist water and 1 full teaspoon of caustic soda, then I use a measuring cup to measure out the mixture into the booster - then add 1.5 ltr of cold distilled water.

Dist water ...mixture ...amps(cold) ...amps(hot) ...bubbles per min
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.5 ltr.........15ml..............3.................3...................54 (13mm hose)
1.5 ltr.........20ml..............4.................6...................66

I had to run this test on the car battery to get it hot (as the charger cuts out too quick) more amps than charger gives
1.5 ltr.........25ml..............7.5..............12..................86 (hot) 125

I picked up a d**k smith amp meter (same as your pic murf) I fitted it all into the mazda this morning and give it some road work, the highest amps it got too was 12 amps whilst driving along the motorway at 120kph
Very happy now the glass jar only gets very warm - the wiring only JUST warm and the car runs a cleaner exhaust and most of the little engine noises seem to have quietened down a bit too.

I will do a fuel run test soon and post the details

HHO does work. I have 4 of these electrolyte jars running in my car they say each jar should run about 1.5 litre of an std engine, running 4 is equivalent to a 6 litre engine even though mine is a 4 litre, now my fuel reduction is this, down to 6.5 to 7.5 litres per 100 km.
Power you get as well with these units, nomal unleaded petrol with the HHO gives me a octane level of close to 120 octane rating, the power I get with a 6 cylinder is astronomical, only one hitch with all this is that the oxy sensor picks up the oxygen coming out of the motor through the exhaust, and richens the mixture, need to play around with a potentcial meter to adjust the settings, to keep it at a lean mixture so to use less fuel. Just reading all the threads here and there, so letting you know I have it running on my car and it all works fine by me, just a few other hitches to iron out and my car next year will be totally HHO running.

Excellent Ed

It's great to hear someone is having a good time with it , Have you tried wrapping the O2 sensor in Alfoil (I know it sounds stupid) but it does work mate, it's to do with shielding the signal somehow. Wrap 3 pieces around it loosly, tie it up with a bit of tie wire.

All I know is that I am saving $20 a week in running back and forth to work each day ( about 32 kms each way).

cheers AL

Hey Ed dont forget to alter ya timing to TDC if your going to run it solely on Hydrogen....

Distilled water is more usefull than normal tap water as tap water has minerals in it and plus with the chlorine in water the effect does not work to produce hydrogen successfuly, but with the minerals in water it can cause electrical disturbance within the cells and hence forth creating an electric blow which you do not want.
As i mentioned previuosly i running 4 jars in my car as per the water 4 gas website, using the 316 marine wire windings, it produces a hell of alot of gas, even though I have a 1993 4.0 Lt engine I am producing results now in the warmer weather close to 5 to 6 litres per 100km, sometimes as low as 4 litres per 100km, like to know how you go with the plates but I find the windings do a much better job and is about the best electrolyte you can use.
Anyway will watch this froumn some more....

I have wrapped my O2 sensor early in the peace when I first started using my HHO, I have folded the foil to a 6 layer wrapping then wound it round the O2 sensor, mind you this plus the fuel heater is a must, as cars years ago used to have a water heater for fuel, these days for fuel injection they used a cool fuel to get the power they needed when leaded petrol phased out, so to have the HHO wosking well a heated fuel line is needed, of which I found out works well too. Even though my car is only using the pod filter instead of the normal air box, the filter is sitting between the throttle body and the radiator, the shroud is removed as I am only using a 16" electric thermo fan in the car, the leaner I am running is superb, the O2 extender I need to get from somewhere, here out in the sticks I guess is only thorugh ebay to get, but will look at getting the O2 extender soon. Cheers all....ED,

Hi Ed

I think Madmurf (in this forum) sells items on ebay also might be worth checking him out, he runs HHO units in about 4 vehicles he owns so he knows his stuff

Good to here from you again

I am in the process this weekend of setting up my ford with a HHO unit - will post some pics up when it's completed, I have been running the 626 mazda with a unit for the last 5 weeks now with great success, hoping the ford will be as easy to setup

cheers AL

Hi all,

Haven't done much new stuff at my end lately (too busy).
Just been driving the car and topping up water occasionally, cells are very reliable if amps are kept from runaway point.
Recently my son has gotten his learners so he does probably half the klms in every tank and mileage is still around 37mpg, which is about 33% increase over unboosted mileage.

Hilux has done over 20500 klms with hydrogen cell now with no detrimental effects.

Glad to see so many people picking up this idea and running with it, so don't feel that you are hijacking my thread. Keep posting , - the more fresh ideas and results of experiments (good or bad) the better for everyone.

Garth

OK not sure if any of you guys have done this or not, or if it has been posted on any of the forums, This is how the fuel heater looks like. This has been proven with many electric devices that has been otherwise done with other manufacturesrs, this alternative method, is taking your fuel line to the top radiator hose, and inserting several brass/copper pieces, which comprises of 3 straight lengths and 2 elbows, which will give you a "U" shaped setup, Wrapping it wiuth foil tightly and then using cable ties to hold it in place and the line goes to the fuel rail.
We do know in the OLD days, if you remember the XD to XF series cars, they had a water heater under the carburettor incorporated in the intake manifiold to heat the fuel, it gave our cars in them days good economy. Anyway just thgought I let you know not being a science wiz, but I do know that this system incorporated with the HHO does work as well, just seeing if anyone has tried this one as yet?
Take care .......

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Guys,

Just having a small issue with my generator. I have to constqantly monitor my amps or i get amp runaway. Does a PWM fix this? If it does how? Where do you mount the PWM? Tomorrow I need to dilute my solution as I am pulling just over 6 amps cold but blowing a 30 amp fuse after about 10 minutes running. It is producing awesome amounts of HHO though!!

Hi Guys good to see this thread still picking up some interest

Manstra - I am lead to believe that the PWM's control the amount of amps allowed thru to the booster, way to go if you are having runaway probs. As a matter of interest can you tell me how much electrolite you are using to how much water please ? and what type ?
I use caustic soda in a formulated mix which turns it to liquid for easy measurement (500ml dist water and 1 full teaspoon of caustic soda) in a 500ml bottle and I can measure out liquid measurements to the booster, this way I can get exactly the same mix at all times, I use a medicine measuring cup to measure out the same amount.

Garthr sounds like your having a good time with your boosters, please keep us informed every now and again as to how things are going

Ed I have read about warming the fuel up, up online, does it have much more effect on fuel savings over the fuel at normal temp ?

Keep the info going guys - because someone else may have had the same probs as you and worked it out.

cheers AL

Al,

My electrolyte is NAOH. The strenght of it is a bit of a guessing game. I usually add a bit to the generator and put power on and check Amps. I have found that 3 amps cold seems to work well. But this needs to be serviced frequently because as fresh water is added, the solution is diluted until it stops producing. I (think I) read somewhere on another forum that if a PWM is added, then you can run your solution reallly strong to draw around 16amps when cold and the PWM will stop runaway by containing a steady 30 amp flow when hot. Does anyone know if this is correct?

Thanks for the input.

Sorry not trying to hijack this thread but i'm looking at buying one of these hho kits from ebay and would like to know if it is a good kit or if it is missing anything as i am new to all this stuff any help would be greatly appreciated

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HYDROGEN-GENERAT ... 240%3A1318

$475.00 is a lot of money to spend when the plans are free on the internet and parts are readily available. we are here to help answer questions too.

This kit looks as though everything is there, but I would also advise on getting a pwm so you don't have the "runaway amps" issue that I am having now. I have just bought a 30amp pwm for $60.00 delivered off ebay, so hopefully now my system should be complete.