Did u mean something like this Fiftyone?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Hydrogen-HHO-gen ... p1638.m122

Hey Garthr,

Done the thied electrode/plate?

Did it give favourable results?

if u mean did i use neutral plates - answer is yes. if u look closely at cell in the pics there are 3 neutral plates on each side of centre anode so layout is : -NNN+NNN-

i'm a bit disappointed with output tho - like i said maybe 3mm spacing is too wide.

as a result i am just using it with original cell both at same time but with different gas injection points to see what results are like.

going to try building a different style next then maybe this one again with smaller spacings.

Garthr,
Have you considered using rubber grommets in the holes of the plate to insulate direct contact with either anode or cathode.

To explain what I mean try and picture this, "X" number of (316) stainless rectangular plates each with a single hole drilled at the top and at the bottom at approximately centre.

Take 2 (316) stainless steel threaded rods and bend them into an L shape the anode (+) short (close to top) and cathode (-) long close to base. Place grommets in holes of the plates the aren't intended to be in direct contact with the rods. Slide the anode through the top holes and cathode through the bottom holes.

Fix contact (perhaps solder) the top holes of the plates to the anode and the plates that aren't meant to touch the anode use rubber grommets to insulate from the anode. Do the same with the base holes making direct contact with the cathode plates where required. (Rubber grommets in both holes for the neutrals.)

Use small rubber washers to adjust spaces until you get the best result. You can get the grommets at super cheap and they indicate both circumference outer (drill size) and circumference internal (rod gauge). The grommets will probably give you 1 or 2mm between plates standard.

Using similar principles you may be able to use wide shallow tank with more plates to see the differences, if any.

I have heard that using gauze type (316) SS works well in dispersing bubbles as opposed to flat plates or drilled plates. It has also been suggested that (316) Stainless does not disintergrate as fast due to electrolysis.

I'm definately no electrical wizz. I do think that too close a gap will not allow sufficient current to be generated to remain efficient. Like points (dwell) in distributors.

Having done your tests what is your opinion on having a second tank to store any surplus gases prior to entry into the throttle body, like a slave tank?

sincere regards

Garthr,
Just looked at your pics again. Perhaps too many neutrals suppressing your current. Have you considered trying more anode and cathode plates? I have read that the neutrals were installed to reduce rapid corrosion of the plates through the electrolysis process. Maybe they are sucking too much of your current to separate the hydrogen and oxygen. (I am only guessing though.)

sincere regards

i chose this number of plates based on the fact that each neutral plate forms another cell so with 3 between each anode & cathode there is like 4 cells formed in series which gives just over 3volts each,
checked with voltmeter and this is the case - measured approx. 3v between every plate.

apparently anything over 2.5 or so volts just wastes power on creating heat, not gas.

that is the logic that i used.

also didn't use bolts or rods to hold plates - just those pieces of acrylic on each side - ends of plates are molded into the plastic to minimise leakage of current around the edges thru electrolyte.

here is cell with level guage attached

You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

yeah, thats the one (coil thinger), wouldnt have the foggiest how to make one...

maybe send them a friendly email and compare notes or something, i think the coil system is the way to go

Anybody from adelaide, - do u know this bloke or had anything to do with the system he is selling?

http://www.fuelfromh2o.com.au/sitebuild ... s/hho3.jpg

You couldn't solder contacts as they would corrode.
rubber is likely to disintegrate.
I love the U-tube video's

sorry i haven't been posting any new results, but haven't been doing many miles lately. numbers are still around the 30% mark on average.
have also been trying to figure out where is best timing setting.
Factory setting for this motor is 6* adv. base timing and i had been running around 10 or 12 since putting hho on, but info that i found lately suggests that there is more to be gained by retarding base timing with hydrogen present,
One bloke even had his advance mechanisms disabled - and running at 0*
(VC Commodore -but he was using compressed hydrogen from cyls in the boot and no extra oxygen)
So at present i have dropped it back to 4* BTDC and will see what difference that makes.
Logic is that hydrogen speeds up the burn rate of the main fuel therefore no need to fire it early.
This is why i think the exhaust note changes, - burn is complete before exhaust valve opens so no real explosion into exhaust port.

Here is another you tube link to a bloke calling himself Zero Fossil Fuels. He has very good explanations of his constructions and has nearly 50 different video up to about 8 minutes each. I thought that this particular link maybe beneficial to Garthr's R & D. This link is number 29 of his series. He seems to be developing his ideas with donations from interested people and sharing his results with all. I found his video particularly interesting. For anyone else who may be interested, here is the link.

http://www.youtube.com./watch?v=QpQHIO2kw58

Sincere regards,

Yes saw him the other day - found particularly interesting and probably copied some of the features that he uses

Tried adding a PWM (pulse width modulator) today to 1 of my cells but was a bit of a failure, didn't seem to make much difference to output of cell and got very hot very quickly.

It was a DC motor controller kit from jaycar so may not be the right type.
It has set frequency and just alters pulse width. From what i can gather we probably need something that can also adjust frequency to really make a difference to gas production.

Now i'm thinking that multi-cell setup is probably way to go next.

here is a handy milage calculator sheet that i use, (excel based).
in case anyone is interested

You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.