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| ToranaGuy |
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Dud map sensors are not so easy to work out, that's for sure.
Opening the gap up usually causes issues on LPG. On my EB, it runs crap on a 1.0 - 1.1 gap that the factory suggests for petrol, but runs good on a 0.9 or even 0.8 gap on LPG. Try changing the gap back to 0.8, and then retest & see what happens. I would also grab a multi meter & measure the leads resistance, checking it against the factory or a gregories manual for the value the leads should be less than. Cheers ToranaGUy
_________________ I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|FS [VIC]: Wrecking - Eb XR8 - Parts available |Build Thread|Ebay Items - Ford Parts| |
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| adam_k |
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ToranaGuy wrote: Dud map sensors are not so easy to work out, that's for sure. Opening the gap up usually causes issues on LPG. On my EB, it runs crap on a 1.0 - 1.1 gap that the factory suggests for petrol, but runs good on a 0.9 or even 0.8 gap on LPG. Try changing the gap back to 0.8, and then retest & see what happens. I would also grab a multi meter & measure the leads resistance, checking it against the factory or a gregories manual for the value the leads should be less than. Cheers ToranaGUy drove to work and back on petrol today... 20k round trip. was literally watching my petrol gauge go down. so i'm thinking that is pointing to the MAP sensor..? i just dont want to replace with a new one if it isnt needed as they arent too cheap  i'll re-gap plugs to 0.8 tomorow. and i'll re-test the resistances of leads. cheers ToranaGuy, hopefully get it sorted soon 
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| The Panel Van Man |
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Ford E Gas BA'S run .07 plug gap, so don't be afraid to go there. Big gaps do not work on gas.
Regards TPVM.
_________________ SALT IS FOR RACING ON. SAUCE IS FOR FISH & CHIPS. |
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| ToranaGuy |
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Np mate. The spark in a LPG fed cylinder needs a lot more effort to be able to jump the gap. Making the gap smaller helps with the issue of getting the spark to jump & ignite the fuel.
TPVM -> I didn't know the Egas BA was such a tight gap on the plugs, that's interesting. I might go a little tighter when i pull the plugs for a clean & re-gap soon, see how the car responds. It's a Eb I6 on LPG Injection.  Cheers ToranaGuy
_________________ I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|FS [VIC]: Wrecking - Eb XR8 - Parts available |Build Thread|Ebay Items - Ford Parts| |
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| adam_k |
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lowered the gap to 0.8mm. no real change. i did notice when i was putting the spark plug boots back on that 5 gave a nice click and the 1st didnt. i saw that the clip inside was pushed in deeper than the others and a little bent inside also. basically i just cut the end of the boot so it fits deeper (the sleeves werent the sliding type). i can't say i noticed a huge difference after fixing that though, although the bogging down isnt as commonly occuring now.
i took it to my apprentice mates garage and spoke to an auto-elec yesterday. he owns 2 falcons himself so it was good to get a 2nd opinion on it. but for some reason yesterday it wasnt bogging down that bad! he also hooked it up to a computer, took it for a ride, and said all sensors were working fine, and that it didnt run any worse than his (an ef wagon on mixer setup with similar mods). he said if i can get my hands on another ECU to drop that in and give it a shot, and also to think about the auto as well with regards to consumption (but its the petrol consumption thats worse than gas.) its just chewing through petrol! whats the cheapest way to get my hands on a good working T-MAP and/or oxy sens? cheers guys |
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| ToranaGuy |
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The spark plug boots need to click onto the spark plugs, otherwise the spark has a 2nd gap to jump, loosing energy that would be otherwise used to ignite the fuel.
No easy way to get your hands on working sensors unless you borrow some from a mate or buy them new. Neither are cheap new. If the car isn't bogging down like it was, keep driving it for a few more days & see if anything major changes or not. I don't see how the auto would cause higher petrol consumption than gas consumption unless the gas is causing the ecu to mess around with the auto electronically.  Cheers ToranaGuy
_________________ I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|FS [VIC]: Wrecking - Eb XR8 - Parts available |Build Thread|Ebay Items - Ford Parts| |
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| adam_k |
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got 2 sensors from my uncle, so changed oxy and t-map. no noticeable difference, petrol isnt dissapearing though
. i emailed top-gun about my leads, and they were really helpful, sent down a new set free straight away (1 day air express), and a LOT better quality then the ones i had (new design). the boots are really good this time. completely different design and a nice solid click when i put them on. now i'm emailing a bloke i bought my coil off on ebay with regards to warranty on it, (its a genuine ford one) however i'm tempted to go non-genuine (delphi). is there any point in this guys, or could i just have gotten a dud ford one? failing that next i'm thinking cat converter rooted? and after that i'm lookin at another auto (as mine is dying anyway). mainly thinking of what affects both the petrol AND gas side of things one question guys, where does the 2nd pipe off the map sensor connection go, obviously the first one is from the PCV, where does the 2nd go and what does it do? cheers, adam |
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| twase |
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This sounds to me like there may be an earthing issue between the block and the body, have you metered for any voltage difference between the block and the Body whilst the motor is running?
Would pay to remove and clean the connection anyway.
_________________ BF Fairmont Ghia Series II update. |
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| adam_k |
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twase wrote: This sounds to me like there may be an earthing issue between the block and the body, have you metered for any voltage difference between the block and the Body whilst the motor is running? Would pay to remove and clean the connection anyway. i did a quick check the other day with a multimeter with one probe on the block and one on the body and was about 0.5v initially going down to 0.08V steady difference. my question is there any easy way to clean the surface between the block and the engine mounts without lifting the engine? (i did spray the block before i put it in so there could be a bad connection). my transmission is on its way out (flaring between 3-2, and whining like a b**ch from the extension housing). now i know those issues are unrelated to my problem, but i'm wondering whether it could be something to do with the torque converter? will be visiting some wreckers for a low K box. trans is the only thing on the car with over 300,000km's. |
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| The Panel Van Man |
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Block is not earthed through the mounts it must have it's own earth strap. Regards TPVM.
_________________ SALT IS FOR RACING ON. SAUCE IS FOR FISH & CHIPS. |
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| PoweredByCNG |
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Regarding spark plug electrode gap, injected LPG systems generally aren't as sensitive as mixer-based systems when it comes to this parameter, but it doesn't hurt to run 1.0-1.1mm gapped plugs as opposed to say 1.3-1.4mm for petrol only. Any less than that and you'll be affecting petrol performance.
_________________ 2005 VZ Commodore SV6 with OMVL Dream XXI SVI LPG |
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| adam_k |
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i need help locating the earth strap to the block.. anyone have any photo's or info where i can find it.
cheers
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| adam_k |
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is this it?... also the mounts and block were painted seperately.
Attachment: 06082010090.jpg Attachment: 06082010088.jpg
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| The Panel Van Man |
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Yes that's it. Regards TPVM.
_________________ SALT IS FOR RACING ON. SAUCE IS FOR FISH & CHIPS. |
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| adam_k |
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hey guys just thought i'd update you and the problem is solved!
was in contact for a little while with impco, and i was doing a fair bit of trouble shooting with them. ended up taking the car to them at their main factory in bangholme, and they sorted it out for me free of charge aswell!!! basically it was an installer fault. there was a vacuum hose going to the actual converter it was cable tied when going around the back of the rocker cover. under low rev conditions intake vacuum wasnt enough to pull air through, and this also supports why it would pick up as revs got higher. now just lookin for why i'm getting high petrol consumtion! thanks for all the help guys. |
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