exactly. as you said you basically paid nothing for it and are $3000 a year better off.

i think youd be mad not to if you had that chance lol. who cares if its a small car and doesnt cost much to run in the first place, costing even less than not much is always better i reckon.

i don't have a suggestion to rid your car of backfires, apart from the usual ignition leads/plugs stuff

BUT, i do have a way that it's likely you can save your induction system anymore harmful explosions

this idea was originally made to me by Scott, a forum member here from yonks ago, who sadly was killed in an accident - http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopi ... highlight=

see my 3 posts in this thread for an explantaion - http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=82507

Since i'm not a member of fordforums the link was not accessable to me,but as I've been ringing around adelaide wreckers for parts it was mentioned to me 3 times about a device fitted between the tb and maf so if it backfires again a gate opens to release the pressure thus hopefully saving the maf,my gas installer has quoted $85 to have this installed,wish he mentioned this when the system was fitted

copy of the posts
1
made a home made expansion valve like this for my EF dual fuel, drill 50mm hole in inlet duct, fit 90mm rubber disc over hole - attach with 2 self tappers either side of centre line
when/if car back fires, rubber flap lifts to let gases out, rubber flap reseals when inlet returns to negative pressure as it does in normal running - any backfires after this were more like f@rt and hardly noticeable in comparison

EF was factory dual fuel with spring clips on airbox lid - still managed to blow apart the ducting acouple of times anyway, main area of force is right near the mixer ring which is a long way from the airbox lid so the gases took the easier way out thru the ducting

2
mate who was a taxi company mechanic told me about it, they did it on their taxis, basically you drill the 50mm hole in the flattest part of the manifold just in front of where the mixer is, stick a reasonably large washer under each self tapper so the rubber disc is secured and the screw head (screws located as close to the edge of the disc as you can get) won't pull thru - you can use 3 screws evenly spaced around the disc if the rubber doesn't want to sit to flat, but don't use 4 because it'll stop the rubber from lifting so easily if you do have a backfire

it is a simple cheap mod that will protect the manifold, i split my original one open twice, ford wanted $200 for a new one, wreckers wanted $100, got one from ebay for $40 inc postage for a petrol engine that i had to enlarge a tad so the mixer would fit in it, fitted the rubber disc valve to it and never had any more problems

3.
the pic, i used a white disc of paper to show where the rubber flap sits

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thanks dddp,that make perfect scense and seems easy enough,i'll give it ago.

no problems, if you look closely at the pic you can see the silastic where i glued the manifold back together - again!
i ended up getting a good one one from ebay and chucked that one in the bin, i never fitted the flap to that one, i did to the ebay one tho

no reason to stick with a circle, a rectangle/square would do just as well - i only chose the circle cause it's easier to cut the hole with a hole saw

as my 347 blew a head gasket while being dynoed this sat. i rang my engine builder about it today plus i mentioned about the backfire in the laser,he recons drill a hole say 50mm or so and fit a rubber grommet in it and the same principle applies it will blow the grommet out and save the maf.

yep, all works the same .. stick a chain on the grommet tho so you can find it!

better with the flap tho, it reseats itself automatically while you've got to stick the grommet back in manually