Also what your mechanic told you is physically impossible... The only things that reduce FLOW through your gas Converter is either the wrong thermostat, or blocked pipes... The water leaves via the bypass at the thermostat housing... Flows through the converter and back into the water pump... If the radiator is fully blocked you will still have flow through your bypass... Meaning your motor will cook and your converter won't freeze... The more blocked your radiator is the hotter the the motor runs and the less freezing you'll have...

So you've gone from it freezing in your first post to its now running too hot? And hence rich?

Starting to get really confused to what your problem actually is?

Only thing that reduces flow as the motor warms up is the wrong thermostat... Blocked radiator physically can't reduce flow through the bypass as I said...

I know you'll still think I'm wrong but we'll hear back from you when you change your radiator and the problem still persists... Sooner or later you'll change that thermostat...

Cheers,
Tim

I thought my cooling system was clean and in good shape, he did not test the flow, it was diagnosed on the basis of experience and the fact that it runs richer as it heats up.
I took the fans and felt the radiator as the car warmed up and the bottom tubes are colder than the top which to me confermes the mechanics diognosis.
I agree with the idea that a partly blocked radiator would increase flow thru the converter, but this guy has been around gas systems for a long time and I believe he knows what he is talking about.
As for the therostat it is a standard one with a small hole drilled in it, dont know the details.
Replacing the radiator is easy and cheap enough, to me it is worth the effort to try
I will find out one way or the other

Tom

No worries...

Just frustrates me when people come on here and ask for advice and then say no that's right it has to be something else... I don't make stories up to give you the run around... I'm telling you I've solved freezing converters before because people fit a non bypass thermostat...

You already confirmed your car has the wrong thermostat... Why is it too hard to try that but changing a radiator isn't?

If you draw the cooling system up on a piece of paper and then pretend the radiator is blocked you'll see why the converter can't freeze in that situation... It's as plain as day...

If the bottom hose is cold then you could have a perfectly functioning radiator too... Water goes in hot at the top... Cools and comes back out the bottom...

By all means do as you see fit... But be aware that because your converter is in the bypass circuit replacing the radiator can obviously have no effect on it... Just sounds like your mechanic has no idea why and that's all he can suggest... If he knew cooling systems he'd know it couldn't be possible...

Let us know how you get on all the same... My bet is it makes no difference...

Cheers,
Tim

In all my LPG cars, I've run a std thermostat - never had a prob with freezing converters. The drill hole or nick is to encourage flow on warm up, if you experience freezing.
Use this : documents.php?d=12 and tell us what the coolant temp is at normal operating temp.

Hello Snap0964,
Does that link apply to XH ute(built 1998),please?And if so,since the ute has no oil pressure guage,would I need to fit an oil pressure sender?

don't worry about the oil pressure sender/gauge ... coz if you don't have the gauge you don't need the sender