Hi all,

First of all, sorry for copying out of my WTB post, but I don't think many people see them any more as you can't bump.

I've had to get a new LPG converter (Thanks Mr Steve) for the wife's EF wagon and unfortunately it has all the pipes pointing in a new directions from the old one. (new one is a OMVL R90e)

Anyway, I've mounted it and started routing pipes to it.. and it looks like I'm going to need a new line from between the fuel cut-off and the inlet of the converter. For some reason the gas pick-up is facing the engine so I need a right angle on that, and the cut-off valve is roughly 15cm from the pickup on the converter though I drilled multiple holes so can move it about 5cm closer if needed.


Frontish View


I've quickly marked where the pipe has to go with red arrows.

Top View


Also, some close photos of the fittings...

Converter fitting:


Fuel cut-off fitting:


The fuel cut-off had a solid connector to the old converter, so it's a threaded hole.

If anyone has piles of old LPG junk lying around in the shed or whatever, I'd be really grateful if you'd have a look and see if you have anything I could adapt, and let me know what you want for it.


Assuming no-one can help me, should I just take the bracket with the converter and cut off bolted to it to a gas fitter and have them make one? (roughly what would I be looking for for that?)

any help.......much appreciated..

Frank

Bummer, I may have to take out the unit and take it to a gas place to have the pipe made up....

It's near it, but not in it.

The gas line would not reach that inlet anyway, as the old one was much much closer to the brake booster (because it had the cut-off valve) but also the old one looks like it has one built in as well and it still had the external one too.. so wondering if that is law over here in WA??

ohhhh... yes please... that is exactly what I need.....

How much you want sir?

Done... I don't suppose you have an old converter that is naffed that has the actual domed input socket (IE like in the photo next to where you circled where the gas line screws in..

my fuel cutoff didn't have one of these because it had a threaded pipe between it and the coverter...

I think so..

one end should thread into the side of the cut-off valve, and the other should seal onto that pipe I'm buying from you..

so it should have the dome area that seals to the flange of the pipe.. (does that make sense?)

This is the thread of the cut off valve

Sweet...

Then by all means sir.. pm me the payment details and I shall be all over it...

Can't take the wifes new car over the pits till I get all the details sorted and this is one of the last ones.

I picked her up a very tidy white EF station wagon with underfloor gas tanks for 300 bucks.. just about to take it over the pits as she is about to have another kid and they won't all fit in the Hilux with their various capsules/seats/boosters.

Do every one a favour, and leak test the crap out of it with a 30/70 mix of dish washing detergent and water.

The be kind to the original installer and remove his gas compliance plate.
As far as the Australian standard goes unlicensed people can't work on the liquid side of the system.
It also states that the original installer is liable for damages caused the system, As you have changed the system it's only far you remove his plate and have the system recertified.

I totally agree, people just do not understand what the f**k they are playing with it does and will go BANG. Leave the high pressure side to the experts, For instance you cannot reuse copper line or any brass fittings it becomes "work" hardened. There should be a Disclaimer as a Sticky on this FORUM to that effect. Regards TPVM.

I have arranged to have an expert chech it out... but for the record, I have no sympathy for the fitters in wa... they rob people blind... half have shut up shop now that they can't rort the state gas grant anymore.. I also just got quoted 300 bucks to get my tank stamped if i take it out and drop it into them for a week and put it back in myself... wasnt long ago that cost 80 dollars, now apparently its so much work that its 300. Scumbags.

I have arranged to have an expert chech it out... but for the record, I have no sympathy for the fitters in wa... they rob people blind... half have shut up shop now that they can't rort the state gas grant anymore.. I also just got quoted 300 bucks to get my tank stamped if i take it out and drop it into them for a week and put it back in myself... wasnt long ago that cost 80 dollars, now apparently its so much work that its 300. Scumbags.

That is a bit rich. But be careful with S/H copper & fittings if you like I will make up a new one to your sample for the cost of the flare nuts & postage only, I have heaps of 5/16 gas copper and I am a licensed fitter. Pity I am in Vic. This offer is open to anyone, as I would rather do this than hear of someone being blown up. If you want it in a size I do not have I will still do it just you will also be up for the line. No labor. Regards TPVM.

Sorry, one thing I did forget is that you must use either Yellow teflon tape or Loktite 377 sealer on all your fittings 377 is the only sealer that is rated to the required pressure. Regards TPVM.

The really s**t thing is there seems to be some licensed fitters that don't give a s**t too.
Had a car com into work today to get a cert for Road worthy / rego. copper service line runs with in 50mm of the headers and 'heat shield' is touching the service line.

the car before that had copper line passing through panel with no grommet or protection of any kind.

^^^^Typo ???
AFAIK Loctite 567 is fine to use - quite surprising how bad a bare fine thread fitting can leak without extra sealing.

Need to use sealer on NPT fittings, but not on flare fittings. I've never seen an NPT thread seal with out sealer.