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jamesbakon |
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65 litres i get max 450 kms
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YBHVE4 |
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Age: 41 Posts: 229 Joined: 26th Nov 2007 Ride: Toyota Landcruiser Series 100 Location: S.E. Melbourne |
are these figures given for aftermarket gas vehicles or Tickford?
im thinking of getting mine converted once I get my new ride. Anyone suggest any brands, setups, etc.
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alfy |
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my aftermarket system sees no more that 350km to 68L.... mind you, i have a heavy right foot.
_________________ 2021 V6 Manual Amarok - 245kw/750nm - many goodies |
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sabian631 |
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Age: 45 Posts: 119 Joined: 27th Jul 2006 Ride: EF II wagon Location: adelaide/salisbury north |
i use to get 350 from a 68l tank, after a dyno tune i now get about 370 after market system not sure what type as i know stuff all about gas.
_________________ EF2 wagon stockstandard with plenty of leaks and other problems |
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dyno_phoenix |
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I get about 500-550 on a 70lt tank, im not too sure if this is alright, its mostly highway driving though..
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EFC |
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AU3 factory duel fuel 65ltr tank: 420k's around town 500k's highway, slightly slower on gas.
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boost_lover |
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i have bad consumption.
i do roughly 280kms to 315kms on a 60 litre tank. this is a mix between freeway and city driving. my car is a ef wagon. is there anyway i can bump this up hardcore. i noticed on previous posts from burns, im the opposite, the car has crazy power with petrol, but with lpg its bad. i only use it to put around. when i push the accelerator from the traffic lights, the car is not responsive, and as the revs climbs, the car starts to move, like it was starving. also the top end revs are not the best either.. i want to improve this cos it is hurting my pocket
_________________ EF Falcon Wagon (LPG) Tow Car - GGOONNEE
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-GAS-MAN- |
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Boost Lover: The fix is very, very simple and extremely cheap, especially considering the mileage increases
Your air intake and spark plugs, leads and distributor cap (EF's and earlier have coil packs) are crucial areas when getting power and economy from lpg. This will near on double your economy boostlover, these are the things causing your horrible fuel consumption! After that! Try adding a cold air intake (CAI), modifying your airbox to allow more-cool air in, see this guys idea http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=56193 Keep inmind, where does the water go, easily overcome and good food for thought. Intake could use an aftermarket filter, doesnt have to be K&N though, anything washable (high cfm) will give you the best value. Cheap pods, not great but better then stock and half the price if bought right, will show an improvement. Keep it clean, if its not washable, wave an air compressor over it every month! Not too close as you can damange the filter material. Get some high temp plugs and quality sheilded leads, of course you need to balance 'gain' against 'cost'. Replacing plugs and leads that are still 'good' is not a viable idea. Every few months check the gaps in the plugs, when taking off your plug leads make sure you 'twist' them slightly as relieve alot of pressure on the cable itself (thank you to the gentleman on here who told me that!) A tune, if required should be performed after all these mods have been done, as lpg requires a tune after any change to your air intake. You need to keep good fuel / air mixtures, otherwise you can potentially turn your engine into one big giant blob of hot metal. Depending on your engine and how serious you are about running straight lpg, an oil lubrication system may be a good path for engine longevity. If your game, like me, try water injection! Keep ontop of all of these and you'll have a great setup. You have the ability to remove your fuel tank, whether or not its worth it, as you may need petrol one day if lpg is playing up. You can save yourself a bit of weight here, maybe replace it with a smaller tank (10Litres if you can get it?) Dont run too low on lpg, if you get down to empty you will hear a BANG and your air box, exhaust and maybe some piping will need replacing ($2-300 damage) cut a hole in one of your intake pipes and fit with a tight fit 'plug' that is attached by a string something, so if it does happen, you save your intake as it blows out with the extra pressure! Hope that helps, thats all i think you will need to know. Matt twason wrote: You can notice quite a difference when you remove the mixer ring so I would say 10kw, this is about what ford are saying. Around town I got around 320K's per tank and highway around 450. This did not change noticably when I went from 3.08 to 3.45 diff ratios nor did it change when I went from auto to manual. I recently installled a GRA carb and disabled the stepper and now get over 400 in town with better performance but i don't have a highway sample as yet. The Tickford system is designed to meet ADR and also wastes a bit in richening to keep the CAT alive, in my opinion it is not the best system to have.
Gday mate, where is the mixer ring located? Are there any safety issues concerned with removing this mixer ring? Cheers
_________________ it can be fast and cheap,but it wont be reliable Last edited by -GAS-MAN- on Tue Dec 11, 2007 3:20 am, edited 1 time in total. |
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nvk-351 |
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I have a EF also with Tickford gas and i have changed the head gasket, spark plugs, leads, and changed the air filter element. But i still get only 350km out of a tank of gas which now usually costs me 35-37 bux!!
And as for changing the distributer cap on an EF... Not to be rude but how can u they have coil packs.
_________________ EF 96 5 speed, Wades Cam, Extractors, 2'5 Straight through exhaust, High flow injectors, Cold air intake, Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, 17's lowered on SSL King Springs... |
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-GAS-MAN- |
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thanks nvk, i updated my post.
A retune might be needed since you have done all those things, talk to your mechanic first, they will prob be able to have a look for you and suggest something easily, a retune is needed over time, impco systems go out pretty fast i have read, the OMVL ones last longer. Before you get a retune, take off the positive terminal from your battery for a 10mins to reset the ecu. Make sure you have the code for your stock radio (if its still installed) before you do Hope that helps you Matt EDIT: Forgot to add, OXYGEN SENSOR! I read somewhere that can be your issue! Although most of the time the ecu takes its readings from other sensors, check your sensors (not that i know how) Get a Gregories Guide Once again, hope that helps Matt
_________________ it can be fast and cheap,but it wont be reliable Last edited by -GAS-MAN- on Tue Dec 11, 2007 1:03 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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twase |
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nvk-351 wrote: I have a EF also with Tickford gas and i have changed the head gasket, spark plugs, leads, and changed the air filter element. But i still get only 350km out of a tank of gas which now usually costs me 35-37 bux!! I have excellent results in changing the mixer on the tickford system to a GRA carb. Economy improved from 320 to 400k's around town and a noticible increase in power.
And as for changing the distributer cap on an EF... Not to be rude but how can u they have coil packs.
_________________ BF Fairmont Ghia Series II update. |
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5Limo |
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I have an EA that is tuned to run well on lpg (useless on petrol) the worst i can get off that is 16L/100km, foot flat everywhere, It is usually about 13L/100km, the big trick is tuning for lpg.
I also have an EF 5ltr with gas injection and a crazy cam, i have just got it going and cant get a tune for it untill late jan but i am getting about 28L/100km!!!!! |
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clearlipstick |
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-GAS-MAN- wrote: Boost Lover: The fix is very, very simple and extremely cheap, especially considering the mileage increases
Your air intake and spark plugs, leads and distributor cap (EF's and earlier have coil packs) are crucial areas when getting power and economy from lpg. This will near on double your economy boostlover, these are the things causing your horrible fuel consumption! After that! Try adding a cold air intake (CAI), modifying your airbox to allow more-cool air in, see this guys idea http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=56193 Keep inmind, where does the water go, easily overcome and good food for thought. Intake could use an aftermarket filter, doesnt have to be K&N though, anything washable (high cfm) will give you the best value. Cheap pods, not great but better then stock and half the price if bought right, will show an improvement. Keep it clean, if its not washable, wave an air compressor over it every month! Not too close as you can damange the filter material. Get some high temp plugs and quality sheilded leads, of course you need to balance 'gain' against 'cost'. Replacing plugs and leads that are still 'good' is not a viable idea. Every few months check the gaps in the plugs, when taking off your plug leads make sure you 'twist' them slightly as relieve alot of pressure on the cable itself (thank you to the gentleman on here who told me that!) A tune, if required should be performed after all these mods have been done, as lpg requires a tune after any change to your air intake. You need to keep good fuel / air mixtures, otherwise you can potentially turn your engine into one big giant blob of hot metal. Depending on your engine and how serious you are about running straight lpg, an oil lubrication system may be a good path for engine longevity. If your game, like me, try water injection! Keep ontop of all of these and you'll have a great setup. You have the ability to remove your fuel tank, whether or not its worth it, as you may need petrol one day if lpg is playing up. You can save yourself a bit of weight here, maybe replace it with a smaller tank (10Litres if you can get it?) Dont run too low on lpg, if you get down to empty you will hear a BANG and your air box, exhaust and maybe some piping will need replacing ($2-300 damage) cut a hole in one of your intake pipes and fit with a tight fit 'plug' that is attached by a string something, so if it does happen, you save your intake as it blows out with the extra pressure! Hope that helps, thats all i think you will need to know. Matt twason wrote: You can notice quite a difference when you remove the mixer ring so I would say 10kw, this is about what ford are saying. Around town I got around 320K's per tank and highway around 450. This did not change noticably when I went from 3.08 to 3.45 diff ratios nor did it change when I went from auto to manual. I recently installled a GRA carb and disabled the stepper and now get over 400 in town with better performance but i don't have a highway sample as yet. The Tickford system is designed to meet ADR and also wastes a bit in richening to keep the CAT alive, in my opinion it is not the best system to have. Gday mate, where is the mixer ring located? Are there any safety issues concerned with removing this mixer ring? Cheers I am a woman who has no idea about any of this. I have purchased an ef to drive as I work as a carer. I am currently getting around 5km per litre. I purchased the car as it had a replaced engine and gearbox, with 10 mnths rego for $2000.00. It is dedicated gas. Does someone live in the western side of sydney, or perhaps knows of a trustworthy Gas installation place that could check what Gas-Man has said, and rectify my car??? All the information on here is to technical for me. Tiffany Last edited by clearlipstick on Wed Mar 26, 2008 2:56 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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macxr8 |
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Age: 55 Posts: 451 Joined: 3rd Jan 2005 Ride: AU XR6 with BF Turbo engine Location: Sydney |
GO to CMS at liverpool. 96006229
_________________ RIP 1x confused Falcon..EL Falcon with full AU running gear...VCT, 5 speed, IRS, AUII front suspension, brakes, and steering RIP |
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chr!s |
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i get 450km for $45 with my ef 6cyl...
headgasket is leaking so head off, reckon a small shave and an lpg cam? |
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