Hi Guys,

I just bought back my AUI XR6 VCT.. So now its time to get onto the mods that I have also wanted, one is the forced induction and I have been reading about the Raptor or the CAPA SC kits.

Which is going to give the best ride, and be able to expanded on later.

Currently she has a no other mods underneath except for re-con engine 20K ago and 2.5 cat back exhaust.

Thanks for any advice...

which capa kit are you going for?? the powerdyne or the vortech..
i would choose the vortech over the raptor, but i would choose the raptor over the powerdyne..

after having a raptor on mine, they are fun and produce reasonable power but i wanted more than the raptor could give me reliably so i went turbo instead...

you got to ask your self, what power level your going to be happy with..
and if you want more later on you are kind of limited on how far you can push a raptor or powerdyne..

Hey mate - thanks for the reply.. Yeah I was looking at the Vortech in the CAPA
So the Vortech is going to be a stronger / long term option?

Out of interest why did you swap to Turbo?

the vortech is much stronger and more reliable than the other 2.

the vortech has a internal gearbox thats lubricated by oil that links the drive pulley to the impeller, where the raptor and powerdyne have an internal drive belt that links the drive pulley to the impeller.
keep in mind that the raptor and powerdyne are cheaper to buy and cheaper to rebuild aswell..

i went with the turbo because i was starting to get to the limit of what the supercharger could warrent reliably.. i pushed it and over driven it to produce 12psi which did give me some reliabillity issues with it,
the most i could get from the supercharger on my stock engine was 216rwkw, which is still a pretty good figure.
same engine with the turbo at 7psi made 230rwkw, at 10 psi made 250rwkw and 12 psi made 267rwkw, so you can see the difference..
and there is still room for more but i think im pushing the limit of what the std engine will take without a build...

aside from the limit of power, is there any other reason you switched?
im looking to do the same thing as 101Phil, but im not looking for extreme power... rather a reliable, economical beast of a straight six.

If you're happy with 6psi and a fast, economical car then Raptor is going to be the go for sure. Browse through the Raptor sponsor section here and read up on some of the 4L Raptor cars.. should be plenty of dyno charts and stories to give you an idea of what to expect.

They are cheap to purchase (and rebuild, in the unlikely event of failure) and it will return great performance. Easy bolt on/bolt off (unlike turbo's or doing head work).

fair enough, i've had a look through there website and the thread... seems like a very good return for the money and effort required. in all likelihood, thats the path ill take...
but just from curiosity, what if i was looking at say 8-10psi? still with raptor, or then go to a vortech?

Throw a spanner in the works with a Rotrex kit from Bullet Cars as another option.

honestly, the reliabillity factor! i had it fail twice and i had to push more than near double the psi to make the power that had been quoted and expected..
now im sure there are people who have had no problems with them at all, so dont take it the wrong way as im only telling you my experience with it..

vince is a good boy!

go turbo and don't look back but buy quality its the best value for money way even a log manifold with a s/h ba turbo is a better option than a centrifugal s/c try a roots if your dead set on s/c's

people say i want instant boost then buy a centrifugal? well they have their place just not low down

if you want instant boost try a correctly sized turbo not the biggest one you can fit

We do AU (all series) Intech/VCT at 9-10psi Power range is between 185 and 220rwkw

The details are here http://www.raptorsc.com.au/kits.php?id=36

This power can be improved with Water injection for a low cost cooling arrangement.

We also include the little electronic part that allows you to tune your stock AU ECU for boosting - its in the kit. So far as I know no one else does this or offers it, without it you are going 2psi then it will cut the fuel off. This suprisingly isnt the case for EVERY AU model, early S1 VCT and some other VCT can be tuned for boost in most cases without electronic assistance

Of note is that if you plan on using a non clutched centrifugal SC on an AU 6 using the standard Ford belt tensioner you can definitely run into unsolveable issues with engine belt continually being thrown off. This is a car to car issue, some do it some dont and the shift kits make it much worse. The Raptor kit is now clutched and belt remains on the vehicle under all conditions - proven.

The gear drive chargers run up to 10psi in the self contained setup, if you want to run more boost pressure they will advise you to buy a charger that taps into the engine oil pressure and needs oil fitting welded into sump for oil return, nothing much wrong with that, allow a lot of extra fitting time and leak issues at later date. The self contain units get super hot if pushed past 10psi and the engien oil helps keep temps in a range that does not lead to seal damage. Some of the gear drive systems run very small belt idler pulleys, the bearings in these burn out fast due to running much too fast. Idler pulleys should always be similar size to what the manufacturer would use, the larger the more reliable.

Last edited by Raptorsc on Fri Mar 23, 2012 4:55 am, edited 1 time in total.

also, im a fan of superchargers... but not so much of the noise, and its a big thing for me...

is there anything you can do to reduce the 'whine' or is there systems out there design to make minimal s/c whine???

The units are getting pretty quiet now days, you can option up for a fully sealed unit with water cooling, that keeps the noise inside

Some good information being posted in here...

@Raptorsc - How DIY friendly is your install? and the electronic part for tuning, is that DIY or best off to a pro??

Im pretty keen on giving it a crack myself atleast the install, as it was the main reason for buying the car back I need a project that doesn't involve computers (web developer by trade) so just trying to work out how much I can do and what needs to go where....

101

If you have a range of hand tools (spanners) and allen keys you are good. To add the little electronic bit a soldering iron is needed to complete the joints.

Tune is easy, just upload from the XCAL

The HARD part is removing the fuel pressure regulator circlip to install the 4 Bar pressure reg, however I am in process of altering tune so that you can do without the FPR upgrade. The injectors can easily deliver at 3.5 bar so no point bumping rail pressure to 4.0bar.

Feel free to email me for fitting instructions - raptorsc@westnet.com.au