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TROYMAN |
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i was thinking about a h/d xr6 puk button but im thinking it may be a little hard on the box with harsh engagement and pedal effort ??
so i need something that is still reasonable on the pedal. keeping in mind i do have a bodgy ankle that does give me some grief with the clutch thats in it now, thats one reason why im considering auto... the thing is, when i do drive it hard, its driven f**k hard!!...lol at the moment as soon as boost rushes in the clutch starts slipping, it dont slip on gear change it slips when boost hits. i assume it does not have enough clamping pressure or surface area to hold it? so im in a bit of a pickle............................ |
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SWC |
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You can get your BTR rebuilt to take the RWKw you are making but it's not going to be cheap. Mind you by the time you add up a decent clutch plus T5 setup (and replacement) it wouldn't be that bad. With the T5, what about a T5Z? The BTR I have here is supposed to be built to take 350 plus RWKw.
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TROYMAN |
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do you know who built the box paul??
as auto is still an option? at the moment im kind of leaning towards the 10.5" npc clutch as its an easy fit, and considering i now have 2 spare t5's ...lol.. im going to think about my options over the weekend as the current clutch is near completely f**k now. and will need something done asap... |
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sexyr6 |
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I had the same issue with mine, slipping when the boost came on, the clutch I have in it now feels just like the standard clutch I had in it before.
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EBXR8380 |
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Powerglide or TH400 manualised ...With http://www.rodshop.com.au/trans_convers ... _trans.htm
Or http://www.dellowconversions.com.au/products.html Conversion.. For street use a 3.08 final drive for interstate, gearing to compensate for no overdrive..
_________________ As in ZOOM 126 edition |
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mrselfdestruct1994 |
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Hey mate, if you do decide to stick with the T5 in my opinion the most important thing you can do is to make sure you get as heavy a pressure plate as you can. Check with the suppliers you have been in contact with to make sure the kits they've quoted you have some decent clamp load as in my experience even a standard "heavy duty" plate probably won't cut it.
I had very similar problems to you and tried several kits including a heavy duty cushioned button kit which all slipped under full boost in third gear. I ended up getting a kit made up by Jim Berry in Queensland, it is an Excedy plate modified for over 3200lb of clamp load with what is basically a ceramic disc. It works great and has never slipped, however it's also very heavy and is a real pain in the a**. Hope that helps. |
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EBXR8380 |
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Two or three things to be aware of...
The pedal box is not strong enough for std clutch which bend and break.. The firewall is not strong enough for std clutch which bends and break... The T5 box is hardly up to std power with abuse will break... The pedal box and firewall can be strengthened..
_________________ As in ZOOM 126 edition |
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TROYMAN |
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i opted to go with the npc 10.5" modified xr6t upgrded h/d clutch and lightweight billet flywheel..
npc have said the clutch upgrade is good for 280rwkw.. i didnt go with a ceramic button clutch due to it being fairly harsh on release...and being harsh on the little t5..lol lucky i have already got a nice firewall re enforcement plate and the pedal box has also been modified.. just waiting on delivery of the clutch and ill see what happens... |
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TROYMAN |
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well i thought ill update this thread..
the outcome off the npc 10.5" clutch was only good for about 2 or 3 power launches then it was toast.. i put up with it for about 6 month and noticed it was starting to slip in upper gears aswell .. so i took the t5 out and fitted a 4 speed auto, well that lasted about 8 month untill i gave it a hard time at powercruise and it started giving me trouble.. and to be honest i missed driving a manual.. anyway i had the t5 fitted again and upgraded to the npc 10.5" ceramic cushion button clutch this time, now its not slipping but unfortunatly it has turned the car into a dead set b**ch to drive..so far im not liking it at all! so where do i go from here???? |
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Michael (HYPOEB) |
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Well a button clutch was always going to turn the car into a b**ch to drive..Its either in or out with a button.
Back when i had my T5 i was running an Xtreme HD clutch for about 6 months with 240rwkw and never had a problem. A few of the WA boys are running the same clutch with more power then i had and its holding up fine.
_________________ EBT-747 - Last edited by Michael (HYPOEB) on Wed Apr 18, 2012 8:33 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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Waggin |
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{USERNAME} wrote: You can get your BTR rebuilt to take the RWKw you are making but it's not going to be cheap. Mind you by the time you add up a decent clutch plus T5 setup (and replacement) it wouldn't be that bad. With the T5, what about a T5Z? The BTR I have here is supposed to be built to take 350 plus RWKw. This is a bit of a mythical beast - the strong BTR. I spent a while trying to find someone who will actually build a strong BTR and there's just no one out there. Sure, they can strengthen them, but to quote one of the guys from a reputable shop - "how long it will last is just pure luck" I guess you can just keep rolling the dice with the weak T5/BTR options or save up and bite the bullet and build something that is strong. C4, TH400 or if you want manual head down the TKO path. Can you run the 11" flywheel and cluch per the V8's ? It could offer a bit more grab. These are the clutches im looking at for the new 363.. http://www.mcleodracing.com/categories/Clutch+Kits.mcl As for your ankle, you could look at going hydraulic.. http://www.mcleodracing.com/categories/Hydraulics.mcl
_________________ WAG363: AUII LTD Supercharged 363 Dart Stroker [{DESCRIPTION}] |
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bry40l |
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{USERNAME} wrote: well i thought ill update this thread.. the outcome off the npc 10.5" clutch was only good for about 2 or 3 power launches then it was toast.. i put up with it for about 6 month and noticed it was starting to slip in upper gears aswell .. so i took the t5 out and fitted a 4 speed auto, well that lasted about 8 month untill i gave it a hard time at powercruise and it started giving me trouble.. and to be honest i missed driving a manual.. anyway i had the t5 fitted again and upgraded to the npc 10.5" ceramic cushion button clutch this time, now its not slipping but unfortunatly it has turned the car into a dead set b**ch to drive..so far im not liking it at all! so where do i go from here???? clutchless manual/manualised auto
_________________ BF XR6 |
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TROYMAN |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I guess you can just keep rolling the dice with the weak T5/BTR options or save up and bite the bullet and build something that is strong. C4, TH400 or if you want manual head down the TKO path. Can you run the 11" flywheel and cluch per the V8's ? It could offer a bit more grab. These are the clutches im looking at for the new 363.. http://www.mcleodracing.com/categories/Clutch+Kits.mcl As for your ankle, you could look at going hydraulic.. http://www.mcleodracing.com/categories/Hydraulics.mcl i had considered c4 previously but i want to keep the overdrive, i do like to run it down the 1/4 and want to do some track days, so im in the situation where im trying to have my cake and eat it(so to speak). the hardest part so far is finding a clutch that can hold the power and torque without taking away its every day drivabillity.. an 11" bf/fg flywheel will bolt up but the diameter of the pressure plate will be an issue. i had to grind a few mm of the inside ribs of the au bellhousing to fit the 10.5" clutch.. a tko was on the list, but there is no point if i cant find a clutch im happy with.. so far this is the 4th clutch,, i have not found a organic clutch up to the task so far thats why i tried the cushion button..maybe i should have just put another auto in?? |
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JakeysED |
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Has anyone run the sunburybrakes setups off ebay? I emailed him about there cushion button and he said it would hold up with 250-270rwkw and rekons they have good drivability for street use... This is also with standard flywheel.
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xcabbi |
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Has anyone ever run a multi plate clutch on here? By design you effectively double your friction area without the disadvantage of high clamping forces.
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