|
| dcstraight |
|
|||
|
tickford_6 wrote: how about all of the above??? or when it blows up and you need a new eninge, think about getting the tops of the piston, the chambers and the exhaust ports ceramic coated to keep heat where it should be pushing pistons down and going out of the exhaust I made the decision not to rebuild the bottom end as I have heard people making good power on stock bottom ends...look at dansedgli and some of the other turbo I6's getting around - they have turbo'd stock engines and still done pretty good. I don't bank on my engine blowing up anytime soon...but if it does, I'll go down the path of rebuilding the bottom end with ACL bits and pieces. tickford_6 wrote: you'll find you gain power from coating those parts If / when the bottom end craps itself, I'll keep that in mind. Chef - I will consider retarding the timing a little and bringing boost down to 6psi while experimenting at this point in time. JFYI, I have a rising rate adjustable fuel reg and an SMT6 interceptor / piggy back chip. I won't disconnect the water lines unless I REALLY have to. pyroay wrote: Are you running that water cooled intercooler set-up you were talking about?
Aaron - I think I'm going to look at air to air...unsure yet though...tackling one thing at once. Thanks, Steve |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| CHEF |
|
|||
|
Are you not using any type of intercooler? I wouldnt drive it at all without an intercooler on the standard timing. You'll have inlet temps somewhere around 90deg and massive advance on boost... it will die very soon mate.
Retard it atleast 6deg if your not intercooling it |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| dcstraight |
|
|||
|
CHEF wrote: Are you not using any type of intercooler? I wouldnt drive it at all without an intercooler on the standard timing. You'll have inlet temps somewhere around 90deg and massive advance on boost... it will die very soon mate.
Retard it atleast 6deg if your not intercooling it I do plan to intercool mate...but I've spent a mint on it all so far...so I'm running out of cash...from what was going to be a conservative $5.5K job...it has blown out to nearly double that...so all in due time. Yes, I will retard the timing - thanks for the advice FYI - the car is off the road (ie not being used daily) and for those that know me, know I don't drive my car hard...so it's not like I'm driving it into the ground or anything. Cheers, Steve |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| pyroay |
|
|||
Age: 44 Posts: 2121 Joined: 14th Dec 2004 Ride: FG Turbo Territoty Ghia Location: Traralgon |
Smile's...... A $5.5k turbo project that has ended up costing doubble so far....
That doesn't supprise me at all. I have stated a number of times a basic turbo set-up costs $10,000..... Sorry that doesn't help you much though I dont believe a reliable long term set-up can be done for much less (asuming things are purchased new) You should be fine on the standard bottom end. As you know i got 45,000km on the standard bottom end at 300rwkw and 17psi. If you get an intercooler and keep it to no more than 12psi you should get keep it reasonably reliable.
_________________
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| 4.9 EF Futura |
|
|||
|
What ratio is the rising rate FMU steve? Standard injectors?
FYI... mine needs a 12:1 rising rate (fuel pressure? hell yes!) and that's with 8 19# injectors with a tiny little powerdyne... How is the reg set up? i.e. fuel pressure at idle, fuel pressure at wot, fuel pressure at 6psi.... So you've got enough fuel in there to prevent detonation? Keep going i reckon, bring in more to bring combustion temps down.
_________________ I promise..... I will never die. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| dcstraight |
|
|||
|
Aaron - yep I knew it was going to happen...budgets and myself do not see eye to eye hardly ever !
Martin - Unsure of the ratio, but it is currently setup at 50 psi - it's the '1728' model on this edelbrock website : http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/fuelpumps.html I've got 24lb injectors and running a second fuel pump in-line. I'm confident I have the ability to throw more fuel at it...just remember, its current state of play is still really a test map...looking at lowering boost this weekend and re-mapping. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| 4.9 EF Futura |
|
|||
|
Hmmm... looks to be a 1:1 adjustable regulator....
With 24 pounders i'd still be looking at an 8:1 or 10:1 rising rate... Cool little calculator for messing with fuel pressure and seeing effect on injectors: http://www.csgnetwork.com/fiflowcalc.html
_________________ I promise..... I will never die. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Spork |
|
|||
|
Is your car actually overheating? Ie. Temp gauge is going into the red.
It could be poor water flow into the turbo so the water boils before it gets back to the radiator. It's probabily not doing your turbo any good. Where are you taking your water feeds from? Pull the pipe off and see how much flow you get (obviously do this when the car is just started and not hot). Make sure there is no pressure buildup on the return too. Sounds like you need some real programable mangement. If you have been 'tuning' at WOT without a dyno you could be a bit off. And leaning out and detonating. A wolf or EMS stinger is only about $1200 - $1500. I don't think you need a rising rate adjustable fuel reg. Just use a 1:1 with good tuning.
_________________ Manual EL Gli.
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| CHEF |
|
|||
|
Yeah wont take too much boost to max out those injectors.
One thing to think about, when not running any form of intercooling the inlet temps are huge (90degplus, they should be well under 30), so inturn heating up the gasses, then back into the turbo. Just gets hotter and hotter, so I could imagine the comp housing glowing hot and melting everything around it. Hot air will also cause the motor to be almost at detonation point, combine this with too much timing adv and thats most likely to be why its doing what it does. I would retard timing and put on an air to air intercooler, going by what you've done so far I think it will solve this drama. 
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 31 guests |
