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| bogan393 |
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hi, my ea is currently being turboed and im having some issues deciding on a drive train. Its currently a 5 speed but the clutch is dead and the gearbox needs new bearings. I also have a 4 speed out of a eb ghia in perfect condition in the garage. My options are either:
1) save for ages and spend the money of the 5 speed, clutch etc. 2)Or whack the 4 speed in with a jmm stally and massive oil cooler. Im leaning towards the auto atm because it will be cheaper and from what i have heard stronger as well. Although i will be running a 3.23:1 lsd so the shorter first gear of the 5 speed would be nice off the line. Just wondering what other people opinions are? also is it possible to fit one of them B & M ratchet shifters to the 4 speed? Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers
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| EDXR8 |
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Firstly if you go the auto, don't worry about the stall because the boost comes in quite quickly with the big engine which will just cause massive wheelspin with a high-stall. Same with your concern regarding the first gear ratio, you eill be developing som much power so quickly, the 1st gear on the 5 speed willl be useless, the auto gearing is actually much better suited. But yes run the biggest cooler you can, service it regularly and it should hold up pretty nicely.
Now wioth the manual, the EA box isn't exactly a strong unit. Depending on what boost / power you are looking at, you would want to at least upgrade the internals to cope with the power or even go a tremec box. |
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| Waggin |
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C4 is an option.
Also speak to Joe @ Crescent Motorsport (sales@crescentmotorsport.com.au) regarding *very* strong 4sp auto's.
_________________ WAG363: AUII LTD Supercharged 363 Dart Stroker [Supercharged 363 LTD Build] |
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| tjb45 |
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I'm running with the standard Auto in my turbo EF, The only thing is you really need to install some form of shift kit. I use a simple electronic one, you can pick one up off ebay for about $50, or if your any good with a soldering iron I'll send you the details on how to make your own..
I've found that if the shift kit is turned off, the Auto slips very badly between gears, and I'm sure will cause some major damage slipping. Cheers Tim |
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| EASPRINT |
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I've had a lot problems with the T5 manual boxes with the turbo setup. I've tried EA...and now a XH/EL box...and still cant hold the power.
_________________ EA Falcon S Sprint
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| EBXR8380 |
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For manual you can't beat the 3550 or TKO of that 5 speed box...See M. Wood in Queensland for kit..Approx $5k with bellhousing, every nut and bolt...
The auto bassically needs to be fitted with AU servo's and wind line pressure way up.Shifts will be hard but slow shifts is what wears them out and overheating...Another thing that can be done to make auto stronger is to fit lower gears in diff...YES fit way large trans coolers....
_________________ As in ZOOM 126 edition |
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| CHEF |
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Yeah, just use the auto, mine seems ok with 2 coolers on it
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| Spider_GT |
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like a few people said depends on boost and that
try a 5 speed supra box or talk to mal wood |
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| bogan393 |
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Yea when i get a decent job ill look into a decent manual, but for the now im on bit of a budget so i think the 4 speed is the go. I'm aiming for about 200rwkw for now, but a while done the track i plan to go nuts on it.
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| Spider_GT |
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don't we all
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| CHEF |
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it starts to get really expensive after 180wkws... but alot more fun
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| TerroristGHIA |
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Just be warned that a stock auto is rated to 240rwkw. Change fluid regulary and fit a decent cooler and they will survive. I change mine every 5000k just to be on the safe side.
Brett
_________________ The Terrorist ED Retired due to RUST. |
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| CHEF |
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Only 240? shiesh... more money
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| Dansedgli |
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It was at this point where I chose to give up the EB and buy one already done.
It was going to cost a few grand to get a worked C4 in there and functioning with a decent high stall and custom bellhousing. This would restrict me to 3 gears, more fuel consumption and of course spending another $3000 on a car that I paid $1200 for. The Auto in my has been fully prepped by Preston Autos and Diffs and is only rated to about 300rwkw. If I was to build another E series I would stop at 200rwkw and use a T5 with a good clutch. 200rwkw is a good stopping point because it can be done pretty easily without an aftermarket ECU and just a microfueler with extra injectors. Not ideal but about $3000 less. Same with the driveline. The T5 would cope okay with 200rwkw if not driven like a maniac. This should be good for close to a flat 13 if driven properly too. Simple and much cheaper. The only downside is you always want more 
My next trans is going to be a TKO box I think. I hope my auto never dies. |
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| CHEF |
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good post Dan, its the same old story though... alot of the time its not worth pouring heaps into an old car unless your into racing and actually use the power you have. But as we all know, race cars cost alot.
For me, my main goal with the ED is weekend circuit super sprints and low level club racing, so spending up on the drive train is worth doing as I dont care what the body type is... ED, AU, BA... there all good |
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