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How to get more torque/power without upping the boost? 

 

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 Post subject: How to get more torque/power without upping the boost?
Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 11:03 pm 
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Now that I've almost finished installing the intercooler and upping the boost to 9psi, I'm wondering what to do next to get more oooomph.

I'm running the 2.7" pulley on the Powerdyne, so the blower is being pushed as far as it reliably can. 928 Motorsports in USA offer some rebuild upgrade parts to get an extra 20% boost at the same rpm, etc, but I'd rather not rebuild a blower which currently has just over 2,000kms on it.

I'm considering a manual conversion, but if so I'd rather go the whole hog to a T56. But I really do like driving my slush box.

So what about the engine - what can be done to this to increase torque and power? I keep being told that the stuff done to NA cars to increase it is no good for boosted application.
Currently the setup is a stocko EF bottom end with 94DT Tickford head, Crow double springs, and Wade 1636 camshaft (I'm guessing this camshaft is not entirely appropriate anymore as it would be more aimed at NA application, but I'm unsure of what to change it for).
I'm considering an AU VCT Tickford head conversion and an AU bottom end or CMS' 4.8L bottom end if that takes off.
Any other ideas/thoughts/recomendations?

O, and if there's a choice between top end power and bottom end torque, torque increase is preferable.
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Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 1:00 am 
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Headwork. Get the head pprted and a turbocam, maybe they might have a blower cam for a 6? ? if not a custom grind. a slight shave perhaps?

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 3:14 am 
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increasing the boost is like upping the fuel pressure when the fuel pump cant handle the flow, "it just makes things worse".

whats the ratio of your lsd? i know it sounds crazy but i think the power curves should be the main base for any final gearing choice cos the whole point to increasing power is to push the weight of the car through the gears.

a turbocam is a good idea because the wade 1636 is a perfect choice for a roots lobe or screw type blower as it will increase bottom to midrange power and torque as the boost comes on sooner but because the powerdyne is a belt driven centrifugal the 977b (also suited to auto) would probably be the best choice and is also better suited to the heavy springs, not only with mid range valve response but also for higher rpm.

if you do decide on a mid to high range cam it will push the torque up higher so you might find it gets too much boost up top so it might be safer to go with a slightly larger pulley just untill you get the tune worked out with the new cam (2.90 preferably) 8-)

manual conversion is good if you like manuals, but not if you just want better strip times as mid to high boost is best suited to an auto as it will idle low to pre mid range just before the power comes on strong (you will need a custom stall speed depending on your power curve), but it also depends on the gearing. "its just a sugestion" :P

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 7:50 am 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
whats the ratio of your lsd? i know it sounds crazy but i think the power curves should be the main base for any final gearing choice cos the whole point to increasing power is to push the weight of the car through the gears.


3.45 LSD from an XR6 EF wagon. I really wouldn't want to go any higher as it rev high enough on the highways already.
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Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 8:02 am 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
and a turbocam, maybe they might have a blower cam for a 6? ? if not a custom grind. a slight shave perhaps?


I would of thought a turbocam would be fairly appropriate due to the blower being a Centrifugal.

Any other options aside from the Wade Cams 977B that anyone knows of? Do I need to look for one with little overlap between inlet and exhaust valve opening?

I don't know if this counts for much of a shave, but the head has been plained? twice already to make sure it's flat prior to fitting.

Do you think an AU VCT Tickford head would give any benifit? I was thinking along the lines of with the variable cam it could help low down torque.
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Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 8:08 am 
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Manual.
Autos and centrifugal blowers were never meant for each other, unless it's only for quarter mile action.
Cam, something mild, and I'd probably advance it a few degrees to try and keep something down low, up top the blower will take over.
Wouldn't bother with headwork.
With powerdyne at it's limit the best you can really hope for is making slightly more power on less boost, you aren't going to pick up massive gains by doing little s**t.

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 8:09 am 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
{USERNAME} wrote:
whats the ratio of your lsd? i know it sounds crazy but i think the power curves should be the main base for any final gearing choice cos the whole point to increasing power is to push the weight of the car through the gears.


3.45 LSD from an XR6 EF wagon. I really wouldn't want to go any higher as it rev high enough on the highways already.


i doubt you would need to go any higher than 3.45 with a suitable cam it will suit the higher torque range so i sugested the auto hi stall because of the rpm.

you get more power but higher engine rpm wich is suited to the centifugal setup.

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 8:17 am 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
Manual.
Autos and centrifugal blowers were never meant for each other, unless it's only for quarter mile action.
Cam, something mild, and I'd probably advance it a few degrees to try and keep something down low, up top the blower will take over.
Wouldn't bother with headwork.
With powerdyne at it's limit the best you can really hope for is making slightly more power on less boost, you aren't going to pick up massive gains by doing little s**t.


yeah, an auto for the best launch, torque and excelleration on the quater mile

to keep power down low would need the AU VCT without looking at the powerdyne boost curve, just looking at all the different avenues for increased performance, like i said its just a sugestion.

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 9:05 am 
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Nearest drag strip is 200ish kms away, so the likely chance of my car seeing that is very low.
I want to enter the wagon into the local traffic light GP!

Last edited by twr7cx on Wed Mar 05, 2008 9:10 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 9:08 am 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
Manual.
Autos and centrifugal blowers were never meant for each other, unless it's only for quarter mile action.
With powerdyne at it's limit the best you can really hope for is making slightly more power on less boost, you aren't going to pick up massive gains by doing little s**t.


I was always under the impression it was the opposite with the PD, I thought with manuals the belts (both internal in the blower and the engines serpintine belt) got screwed quickly.

I'm not necesarily after massive gains, just a little bit here and a little bit there.
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Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 9:12 am 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
you get more power but higher engine rpm wich is suited to the centifugal setup.


How does the higher stall converter effect the drivability of the car the rest of the time though?
Is there anyone else besides JMM offering them?
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Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 9:37 am 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
I was always under the impression it was the opposite with the PD, I thought with manuals the belts (both internal in the blower and the engines serpintine belt) got screwed quickly.

I'm not necesarily after massive gains, just a little bit here and a little bit there.


Yerrrp, manual will be rougher on the internal belt as automatics just dont get the rapid change in engine speed that manuals can (i.e. shnapping off the throttle).

I'd say its a longevity issue as opposed to instant fail.

-Talk to someone about a cam that's more suitable.
-Have the car tuned to create more torque, obviously keeping in mind the need for an appropriate A:F ratio under boost
-Manual

And WTF.. 200km should only be a 2hr drive, less in that thing lol.

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 10:21 am 
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ive got both the lumpy wade cam which was matched to the Powerdyne supercharger and the JMM 3000 histall. They drive well, sounds like a monstor at the lights and very easily driven around car parks etc.

Launches are great, not sure of the time you save but its noticeable that the launch was quicker and your further ahead, i would suggest you'd save 0.6-0.8 of a second as i read that somewhere, cant find the page now, if you are looking to buy either, i have both which are coming off in a few weeks.
Matt

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 10:24 am 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
And WTF.. 200km should only be a 2hr drive, less in that thing lol.


Yeah, but it's weekends which is when I work (so as to be able to pay for petrol and future go fast bits). Remember I live in Hobart (small town) so anywere more than 15kmins away is far away. 200kms and I'm in the other side of the state, and those northerners are weird... :shock:
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Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 10:28 am 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
ive got both the lumpy wade cam which was matched to the Powerdyne supercharger and the JMM 3000 histall. They drive well, sounds like a monstor at the lights and very easily driven around car parks etc.


As we discussed previously I'm definately keen on the Cam, just wanting to find out what particular cam it is still...
I'm also keen on that stall converter now too. You've owned other 6 cylinder automatic falcons previously? - how is normal divability in the high stall compared to them?
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