Would the bigger pipe make you much more power for all the work involved?

I like your thoughts about twin 2.5 over the diff, i might think about that with my torana, as i doubt i could get a 3" over the diff.

Cheers

ToranaGuy

Yeah, I expect the turbo to spool up quicker from less backpressure so it will produce more torque straight away.
In most factory turbo cars you see the biggest KW rise from upsizing the dump ( down ) pipe and cat, so I spose my existing exhaust I fairly free flowing as is, but will never flow the amount of air to see 300wkws which is my goal without having to spend big $ on the motor

hey chef cool turbo kit but just one thing wats the go with the compressor housing of your turbo resting on the manifold and super heating the air you do know that extreamly hot air doesnt compress very well

Yeah i know, spose thats one of the draw backs of DIY... but its pretty similar to the BA, its comp housing is close to tha manifold... lucky for intercoolers hey

A good point about how the turbo's comp housing is so close to the zorst manifold. But as with most cars, there isn't a huge amount of room to do much else with it. Atleast with the pipe distance to the IC there is some chance of heat loss before the air hits the IC.

Thank god for IC's & water injection.

Cheers

ToranaGuy

Very good post...heaps of info!

Update on the beast... 8000ks and all good

Its done 8000 kays since I got the turbo on and running, alot of this has been highway driving in 12 hours voyages... Qld to syd a few times.
I had some issues with "tuners" in Qld when I left it with the old man and it wouldnt start for him one morning... the first garage thought it wouldnt start due to the Wolf and went about "adjsuting" the mixtures, turned out to be either the coil or iggy module not the wolf but in the mean time the Wolfs setting were rooted and it wouldnt start cold or run under half throttle. He took it to another efi specialist and they came to the conclusion that either the injs were way too massive to even run under 3000rpm or the wolf was a peice of s**t...
I flew up a few days later, retuned it myself, chucked it on another dyno to check AF ratios and drove it back to Syd... all running very smoothly.

So now that every part of the ignition is new, dizzy is rebuilt, its alot smoother and has ALOT more power on and off boost. I also slipped the boost up from 9psi to 12psi and its punching along very well without any detonation which is awesome.

Was putting it on the dyno this weekend but thats been delayed and I wanted to run it at the drags but they were cancelled too... next week is the go.

Next on the list of to do's is rewire the injectors into 3 groups of 2 instead of 2 groups of 3, this should make it smoother at low rpm, cruise and idle. Then I will set up the Wolf for ignition ( its fuel only at the moment) so that should give it more torque as we can advance it alot more off boost, with a bit of luck it will reduce lag too... cant see why it wont.
Exhaust is up for an upgrade once the Wolf is sorted again, thinking of retaining the 3in dump and cat and running 3.5in off the cat to the muffler then the biggest possible fitting pipe over the diff... should be good for a decent KW rise.
Aiming for 300wkws on the stock motor, so that will require all the above plus some more boost (15plus psi ) and a drop in comp ratio, 8.5 to 1 via a ACL headgasket or a grind of the chambers... If the motor holds together until I have finished building the new one I'll be happy, if not its no drama either way

Oh and bought a euro sized battery which is not as tall as the standard one so it clears the bonnet with alot more room to spare while mounted on the passanger side. Also cut a few inches off the turbo heat shield just above the comp housing as I was a bit paranoid the core would get too hot

Be interesting to see how it goes on the strip CHEF. If you can get any traction
How do you think the gearbox will hold up/is holding up?
You are running the auto aren't you?

Yeah auto... I havnt touched it yet, but it hasnt got any worse than it already is so thats a plus.
If i take off on 3/4 throttle then jam it to full throttle just after it goes into second, it usually turns out the best launch, though it spins when boost hits 12psi, I can ease off a bit till it grips again... it is accually easy to get a very quick take off, but the hard part is not giving it too much throttle. And once the auto heats up it sometimes slips out of gear
Hoping for a low 13

Something I wanted to clarify.

If you are running an aftermarket ECU you just run a fuel regulator that can adjust to both boost and vaccum as apposed to a "rising rate" regulator.

Is that correct? I thought if you ran a "rising rate" regulator you would get strange ECU tuning and poor spray patterns etc.

Can the standard fuel regulator do both boost and vac or is it vac only?

Well, Im still using the stock reg but I really should get a rising rate. Basically, a rising rate reg on the stock injs and ecu will just force more fuel through, as you know. But with an aftermarket ecu and the corect sized injectors a rising rate ( boost regulated) is used to match the fuel pressure being sprayed into the chambers in relation to the air pressure blowing in.
Using the stock reg, as in my car, on higher boost the fuel will start to be blown back to the injector. This is most likely starting to happen on mine with it now pushing 12psi, so I should get a new reg... i will when it shows up as a main concern

This is actually wrong. The fuel reg will always (within reason) maintain a constant fuel pressure (provided the fuel pump is up to it) to the injectors regardless of how much vaccum or boost the engine is experiencing. I know this for a fact because if the reg does not increase with boost then it would have not been possible for me to put mine in a vice and sqeeze it to a 50psi base pressure. This clearly indcates that the reg will at least go to 50psi from the standard 36psi and I believe it will go to 70psi.

I hate rising rate regs, most people use them as a band aid for too small injectors. Virtually no one realises that the high rate ones are dangerous and damaging to fuel pump life. An 8:1 rising rate on 50psi base with 15psi of boost can see 120psi fuel pressure. How long do you think an oem rubber fuel hose will last let alone the cheap a** fuel clamps on the Ford fuel system?? The pump rate goes down with pressure and it works harder, most factory pumps can't handle reliable more than 80psi.

Also as a final though some fuel injectors do not increase fuel delivery in a progressive fashion with pressure increases and pintle injectors are know for poor atomisation with excessive pressure. An example of poor atomisation is 13B or 12A rotary injectors, its hard to get a smooth idle on them in a piston motor (tuning them with a Microtech hides this mostly).

Thanks for your input Bert, I'm just going on what I was told, so maybe they were just trying to sell me a new reg for the sake of making money... if I can continue using the stock reg succesfully then thats some more money saved

bert one thing you forget is that fuel pumps will pump anything upto 80psi with no hastle plus when the rising rate reg is shut and you see your so called 120psi dont forgt that the injectors are letting fuel out of the rail so the pump cant push the presure to 120psi maybe you need to fit a pressure guage to a car and see what i mean