Took the Subi RS water to air intercooler out to the car today and tried to work out the best place to put it.

I can either move the whole intercooler into the wheel well, which will be a tight fit with longer piping, or hide it under what is now the airbox and make a pod filter housing in the front of the wheel well..

I like the second answer.. because it means the intercooler is easily accessible.. because it keeps the piping short and less pressure drop.. because it's where the factory piping goes anyway so easier to make the piping look factory..

but mostly, I think I can make a really cool hi flow pod filter air box in the front of the wheel well and run custom ducting to the high pressure areas behind the bar.. and it also means that engine bay heating of the intake will be a thing of the past.

If you were not worried about stealth like I am, this would not be necessary but I think it's a good idea anyway.. time will tell.

Time to see if I can still fibreglass.

Just picked up one of these:

http://www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemd ... utePage=21

Its a 12V inline pump for my water to air intercooler.. $49 bucks on special.. apparently they work very well in water/air systems and the price was right.


Now I want to get some copper water piping so I can run the water piping inside the wheel well along side the main member.. (big heatsink) to take another couple of degrees off the temp..

I've also dug a huge air con radiator from the shed which is my new water cooler for the water/air system.. so far the costs have worked out considerably cheaper than I was expecting.

When I'm finished. the air filter will look the same, but will actually house the water to air intercooler. The new fabricated airbox will be in the inner guard ducted to pickups in the front bar. There will be an additional 2 litre water container somewhere to up the capacity of the intercooler system, but with the exception of the filler, it will be behind a guard also. This whole aspect would be much simplier if I wasn't trying to hide everything, but I think doing so is in my benefit so I'll persevere.

This is sort of fun.. but I've not done any work at all lately.. lots of collecting bits and family stuff to do. (like my bday, my daughters bday and now fathers day, all my weekends taken up.)

I just about have all the motor bits I need now.. next comes the suspension and T5 conversion.

The water pump is tiny.. not much bigger than the hose that connects to it.. but have to put water body upsteam of it because it can't self prime.. no big deal because it should never need to.

Onya Frank.

noice

nice work frankieh

cheers

Frankie, I believe the Gatorback isn't recommended for a SC application, especially if you have an auto and tweak up the line pressures. High RPM + SC + firm shift = spaghetti.Apparently Whipple have issued a warning about the segmented belts being unsuitable, and Raptor have found Gates belts to be much better. Go the Gates!

OK.. the belt I got now is a dayco.. it isn't segmented so it'll do for now..

I'm presently wondering if I can drive an additional pump from the belt to pump water for the intercooler.

I found this page:
http://www.turboclub.com/RTO/06100005/Default.htm

in which he originally ran a washing machine pump off the engine to run the intercooler.. but had to swap because it didn't like 6000rpm..

If I can find a old washing machine with all metal pump, it might be an idea..

I have brand new electic pump, but it's only supposed to be on in 15 second bursts.. I want a slower pump to push the water through continuously and only fire up the electric one when under hi boost..

dude look at the water cooling pumps for pcs???

they are all 12 v and some are self priming as well

just not sure on the water flow thats all

I did already.. they don't flow enough unfortunately.


We are having a curbside cleanup in our neighbourhood this weekend.. there are washing machines everywehere.. will pick up a couple of old pumps and see if any are adaptable.

OK..

So today I raided all washing machines on the kerb cleanup and got myself 3 different types of pumps.. two electrical and one mechanical (pulley from motor)

The mechanical is my backup plan, and one of the electrical ones is too small and cheaply made to be useful.

The last one however allowed me to separate the pump from the 240v motor, so i went looking for a 12v electric motor to drive it.. one that would be happy to run whenever the engine is.

I found an old thermo fan that's been in my shed for about 10 years.. and the motor is in perfect nick.

Took the motor out, welded the two shafts together after lining them up as good as I could and started mounting them to a support plate.

Looks like it's all worked too. the benefits are as follows.

1. Cost = 0
2. pump has brass bushes and very few wearing parts so will last forever even at 100% duty cycle (just replace seal every few years I guess).
3. Designed to handle hot water.
4. Motor is over powerful and built to last for ages running at 100% duty cycle.
5. Pump would cause less restriction than the thermo fan did, so less strain and current draw.
6. the pump is centrifugal, and designed to handle change and stuff falling into it, so it has no close tolerances, meaning that if it has too much pressure to force though the small pipes, it has enough built in bypass to ensure no damage incurs.

The downside is:

1. compared to the whale pump, this thing is big. about 10x4x5 inches. Not a big deal though cos it'll hide in a guard.
2. Will draw more current than the whale.
3. Piping will need to be adapted as this pump has an inch wide inlet...
4. Still not self priming, but unlike the whale pump, this one can run dry for a while with no damage so not a big deal and because this one can handle heat.. I can put it closer to the water tank.

Still, if it's sunny enough tomorrow to work, I plan to rig all the bits up on the ground and see if it pumps well enough to do the job.

I'll take some photos then...

Kinda cool winging it on the cheap...

nice work dude on the cheap side there

another source of a pump could be a fountain pump for a pond?

yeah, but I don't have one of those so I'd have to buy it..

also pond pumps are not designed for hot water.

It's taking longer to get all this done then I'd hoped because the wife/father thing keeps intruding and I get only a few hours a week at the moment to do eveything..

try bilge pumps, there are some heavy duty ones that people use as tank stirrers in live bait tanks that can be used for this purpose.

http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info ... a61c7fc94f

What you need is a decent water pump that can flow enough pressure to atomize the water into mist. go to a hardware store and grab a couple of misting garden jets as well. what you want is the water vapor/mist suspended in the intake tube.

Slick, this isn't for water injection... this is for the water to air intercooler...

no need for mist..

water injection comes later on..