NAh.. was in Rockingham WA..

normally about 45 minutes or more out of my way, but as luck would have it, I had a medical appointment down there the day after the auction so I picked it up on the way though..

now just need to find the left side..

YAY!!! I just one this:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... 0096057518

EL Fairmont Ghia Tickford ECU... $31 dollars.

Thank goodness for me the guy didn't use the term ECU anywhere in the auction so hardly anyone found it..

I watched a Police EL ECU go for 100 bucks the other day with the guy claiming it was XR6 so I'm stoked to get this one as it's code definitely checks out as EL Fairmont Ghia ECU..

Thats going straight into the EL in preparation for the new SC motor. (though I will still be getting a J3 chip and reader from Jason to edit the tables, but I plan to internally convert this car to complete Ghia status, and the ECU is part of that.

sweet...!!!!!!

Last edited by frankieh on Mon Oct 20, 2008 2:10 am, edited 1 time in total.

im also thinking this would look good with a XR spoiler hehe

i got to see the 'box car' tonight i thought it looked and sounded quite good

Had I known then what I know now, I wouldn't have let him near my car, let alone leave the keys with him while I was working away.

Yes, it can be done easily enough, but make sure you know what you are doing. I had no idea, and enlisted the help of Wade (my housemate at the time) because he claimed he knew what he was doing. It appears he thought wrong.

Removal is the easy part. Putting it back together is the hard part (unless you know what you ar doing).

After swapping out the XR loom, and reqiring in the Fairmont loom, my alarm would mysteriously turn on when the doors were locked and the right hand indicator turned on. Now fair enough, Wade came back got rid of that, but then the alarm never worked from then on. I ended up going to get a new alarm in the end.

To this day, my climate control doesn't work. It is permanently stuck on a heating temp, and always forcing air up to the windscreen vents. The trip computer still doesn't work either. The power source isn't hooked up correctly. Luckily, Fraser is a good bloke, and is going to hlp me fix this.

I was also told (by people who were friends of yours at the time) how you treated my car while I trusted you. While I was working away, I asked you to drive it to and from work once a week to keep th fluids moving and the battery charged. I found out from other people you took it out on cruises without asking me, and not driving it like you would do another person's car.

That's just on my car. The work done on your own car was much worse. When fitting th manual conversion, you put the clutch plate in backwards so the damper springs ended up rubbing on the flywheel bolts?? How the hell do you even do that??

Then there was the colour changing dials. Yes, they worked, but even you admitted it was worse than a bloody spaghetti meal behind there.

On top of that, review the following list:
Cracked ISC from overtightening
Earthed Amps to taillights
Put ultralows in and didnt roll the guards which ripped them and the tyres to shreds
Large amounts of bog in the sills
Sprayed the mouldings with a paint out of a spray tin
Towed horse float on a brand new clutch and didnt bring it back to have the head tightened
Spliced and cut wires everywhere in the wiring loom

And then once you had all this work done by someone who was a friend at the time, you didn't pay them. You are on par with David Smith, or Elmo as scum of the Earth.

Feel free to come back with a reply, but I stand by everything said. I wouldn't trust you with a 5c piece or DVD you borrowed.

Sorry for the thread hijack, but I had to get my defense in.

Cheers
Damon

let me know how you go with this via PM please. mine is doing the same and i cant work out how it got like that. i put an EL Ticky motor in and its never worked since then but all the lines are connected

Well now - You PLAN TO INTERNALLY CONVERT THE CAR TO A GHIA and THE ECU IS PART OF THAT? Oh my giddy aunt. Would you like the original GHIA fuses with that, or will standard Fairmont ones do?!

hah

Keeping it real tho brother, good to see.

Although - I'd prefer to actually see more of the engine with the blower on it to tell you the truth. Ever since I came up with the idea of doing it to me tired old EF motor I've been following this thread. Would love to see it DONE... I have visions of putting a similar setup into mine, and then rigging up a water injection system... I can then retire the motor happily... It having led a full and productive life to the fullest of its abilities

I saw a BA motor sell for $450 over here in NZ the other day with less than 100,000 on it. No mention of the ECU, but from what I gather you are probably better off finding an aftermarket one as the BA ECU and all it's different signals would be a pain in the a*** in an old EF smartlock car.

One day I will go down the whole BA engine route the EF wagon, for sure. Have got most of the rust out of the body now, and no signs of the chassis wearing out, so this car could be around for another 15 years easy. I wonder if the extractors will bolt straight on to the BA head? Aparently the BA motor will run off an AU computer (which should be easier to put into the EF, as it uses the same smartlock crap?!!)

OOPPS - Am running dangerously close to hijacking your Forced Induction Workshop thread with future rubbish...





Poor old KILMA. Sounds like you met a right royal phuckwit there. I met a fair few over here in NZ - but thankfully I do all the work on my car myself as I cannot afford to pay anyone... This has its advantages and disadvantages. At least I know what I have done poorly and when something dies or starts malfunctioning in the slightest it's therefore easy to trace why. Disadvantages are simply that I don't know how much work or effort is involved and therefore don't back myself enough to take the head off for a new gasket, cam and possibly swap it for AU bolts etc etc... Conversely, I back myself too much with some other bits and bite off way more than I should be chewing. At least I learn what is going on with the car and everything and now know enough to tell when someone else is telling complete s**t about their vehicle or their own skills in modifying it.

Example being the halfwit who is moving to Aussie soon... Really nice of Aussie to take our rejects off our hands by the way... He sold me a Borg Warner gearbox saying "everyone thinks I am a mug selling you the T5 that will bolt straight onto your motor for that price". Turns out the "T50D" is actually a M76 and is not only never going to bolt in with the bellhousing he promised was on "exactly the same motor as yours" but wouldn't even bolt into the correct bellhousing I bought later. Then, as it happens, the M76 was only ever behind a 3.3L XF and even failed regularly behind that under powered unit.

He then tells me he can buy the LTD model of me car for $2000 from his cousin in Aussie with new paint and mags. When asked repeatedly if it is the same shape he says "yes yes and more yes" before saying "apart from the headlights... The headlights are square, but other than that it is exactly the same car..."

IDIOTS LIKE THIS NEED THEIR FOREHEADS STAMPED WITH WARNING SIGNS, I feel sorry for you and your car having that idiot work on it.

How on earth do you expect earthing the amp to the tailights to be a good idea?

Only thing --- Towed horse float on a brand new clutch and didnt bring it back to have the head tightened --- WHY WOULD YOU NEED THE HEAD TIGHTENED AFTER WORKING ON A CLUTCH? ??? ? That ones got me confused....


\
Right Fank oldmate. Returning the thread to yourself... MORE PHOTOS... More action... More more more please Frankieh...

Is yours an SQ?

The head is fine on this motor.. but recently I've been wondering if it's worth pulling it off anyway and putting in an AU gasket and some ARP head studs to preempt it popping a gastket once in the car.. no doubt the job would be easier on an engine stand then in an engine bay..

Looking here though.. http://www.arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Catalog.html

I can't find any mention of the aussie Falcon 6.. so don't know what studs would fit... anyone have any ideas?


rgds

Frank

i would most defintely change the headgasket over while the motor is out, maybe also the sump gasket, as its very hard to change over once in the car

Contact Atomic for the headstuds.
http://www.atomicperformanceproducts.com/

I don't think you'll 'need' them persay, but it can't hurt.
New headgasket can never hurt, get the head checked as well, would do sump gasket as well as fordfairmont said, I would do rear mains and timing cover seal while you were there, check condition of guides and tensioner, maybe put a timing chain kit through it?
They are the main issues with the 4Ls really, it's probably worth doing.

V2 T Trim.

Welll I figure that with 10-11 psi of boost.. the old gasket will go byby pretty quickly.. and headstuds and an AU gasket would mean that I'd likely never have to do it again.

This engine has only done 100,000 km and has been immaculately cared for, (inside engine is spotlessly clean) not sure the other stuff is warranted for a while yet..

thanks for the url, I'll chase that one down.

rgds

Frank

i agree, the guides like to snap with age regardless how 'clean' the engine is, and chains stretch.
And timing covers love to piss out oil, the same as sumps.... and all of it is so much easier with motor out of the car.

Frankieh, would be worth doing gaskets & timing chain kit. Your going to be forcing boost into it, and all sorts of s**t is gonna be under stress, and leaks will show where there were no leaks before.... whats a timing kit worth? like $100, then you got gaskets including sump, head, and headbolts? bout $300 maybe?

$400 peace of mind could save you alot of headaches & oil topups every 2 weeks later down the track!!!

yeah.. but if we keep adding stuff I have to do.. It'll be ages before I get the d@mn thing in the car.. and I really really want to do that..

perhaps I'll just stick this engine in as is and get it all working.. then I'll the other EL motor I have and give it a full rebuild with better rods and balance so I can wind up the boost some more..

Just remember what we said in a few months time
That sort of stuff you could knock off in an arvo.
Stock bottom end will cope with heaps, look at ebs_4l and fritzz.
If this motor is good, low kms, I would do all the reliable stuff and leave it as is.
Push it to the limit, if it pops, no biggy because you haven't put alot into it.
If it lives, awesome, because you've also knocked off any little annoying s**t that could go wrong with it

Anyway, thats my advice, I just know what its like to skip a few things and end up having them f**k up down the track!
Worst feeling ever.