lol.... fair enough..

thanks for the advice.. I'll probably take it.... my concern at present is that 400 bucks is a good chunk of change for me.. especially when I'm buying the manual gbox and stuff... so have to work out the budget or the wife will get upset and beat me....

Just won a boost guage for $15.51 here:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... 0261815704

It is in bar instead of PSI.. but I'm gonna make a custom carbon fiber fascia for it anyway so I'll just change it to PSI while I'm there..

gauge handles some level of vacuum also which is what I wanted as will be hooked to the intake man tree.

Good price me thinks.. still on target for my 2 grand boosted falcon.

Last edited by frankieh on Mon Nov 03, 2008 10:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Excellent stuff dude! I've been watching the progress from day one and am very keen to see how it all turns out. And don't forget or race date haha

no sweat... the biggest holdups at the moment are that I'm swapping to an EL GLI meaning most of it has to be changed to get back to Ghia status.. and the manual conversion...

All the stuff I took for granted on the EA ghia is missing from the EL gli so I have to add it..

I'll get there....

Man, know how you feel about loosing $400 to parts that you kind of need, but kind of don't. Am on a restrictive budget myself - otherwise I'd ditch the oil leaking EF that now sounds as tho it's oil pump is dying and work out how to get a newish BA motor into the thing. Although, have heard the BA's aren't actually that reliable... Have yet to see one hit 300,000 like all the EF's seem to! Maybe I should stick with the EF - although the EL ignition system seems a little more idiot friendly for my back yard mechanicking.

It's a hard one really Frankieh old pal... Spend money you don't really have on doing things properly or do a good job with old, worn, tired parts and know full well that they won't last forever and be prepared to fix and replace as the wear progresses towards "failing".

You know the sound a motor makes when you first fire it up -- clank clank for a couple of seconds until oil and the like starts working its way around?... Well, mine now makes that noise for a minute or more until it goes away and pretty much doesn't come back until the car is dead cold (ie - left sitting over night)... Sounds like the oil pump is dying to me. As I am a complete amateur mechanic who has no money I am afraid I'll have to just make sure the car has its fill of oil and see how long it takes it to die. I know the car needs new crank seal, timing gear (and possibly cover), tail seal etc... Along with my ambitions to go T5...

All that with only having a hundred dollars a week as any form of car budget...

Anyway - enoughs enough - I feel your pain Frankieh brother.... If you have enough spare bits to start work on a complete and proper rebuild then just stick what you have in an engine bay and start doing the real rebuild on the other!

As I've learnt (and others already knew) --- Doing things the second time usually means less stress, faster work, less error, and a better product / result.


Mate - Have a missed a few photos of yours somewhere, or what?

Although, looking through your members gallery I see rust in wheel arch issues (EXACTLY the same as what I have been fixing on mine recently --- When you put the trims back on can I suggest putting some autotrim closed cell double sided foam of about 1-1.5mm thickness around any of the fixing holes... I left all the interior out of mine and hosed on high pressure from all angles to see if it continued to leak 0 and it doesn't so can now weld plates and bog / paint without worry about it coming back next spring... Also, I found some water being drawn UPWARDS into the roof lining area above the drivers door. Take the rubber trims off the car body and take your roof lining out enough to drop some rust converter into the "gutter" area above each door... Hopefully none of it will run out at the top of the door and all will disappear to wheel arches or forward drain holes. I found quite a drip came out one of the seams on the underside of the door opening. When the door is closed and the rubbers are working properly water prefers to go up this seam than wait for the oppurtunity to follow its intended path. As someone once discovered - it's probably better to fix the source of the problem than repair the problem. Believe it or not, by following barely visable rust and water marks I traced the final cause of the rust in front of rear wheel arch to a failing seal at top of windshield. Originally Ford put tape to get water running in a particular way- the tape has long since perished and water could find its way into the roof lining through a rust hole that would never have been an issue if the tape had worked properly. Am now confident that the rear wheel arches will no longer get moisture inside them. Obviously in NZ's SALTY OCEAN SPRAY and WET environment this is a much bigger issue than you lot in Aussie have to worry about...)

Money, being what is is, has meant that I've sold most parts off my Subaru and a guy is buying the motor for $200 today (with most of the car still attached and thrown in for free...) I am going to see if he minds giving me back the water to air intercooler (the same as what you are using) for my planed small Asian blower addition... One day, it may happen. Until then I'd be a mug to give away the intercooler when it could cost me hundreds later...

MORE OF THIS PLEASE KIND SIR...!

There will be more photos of the blower shortly mate... the fabrication of the bottom adapter is almost done (the old one pointed the wrong way)

when it is done, I'll take some more photos.

Keep the intercooler... but keep the pump as well.. those intercooler pumps are worth their weight......


rgds

Frank

Yeah - saw you had another photo there of the pump. Was wondering why you'd bothered with an individual photo of it. The new owner of our Subaru should be turning up shortly, so will know soon if I'm still the proud owner of an Intercooler as discussed.

The bottom adapter pointed the wrong way?

GODDAMIT FRANKIEH!!!

The supercharger originally came from a mustang... it was then installed with adapters into a Delorian... it was the outlet adapter that points the wrong way.. nearly have a new one ready though..

rgds

Frank

Wade is a drop-kick, which would explain the earthing of amps to the tail light screws.

After the clutch was replaced, the horse float was towed against advice from the mechanics who did the work. The cylinder head was also sent away for facing and reconditioning at the same time if memory serves correctly. The tow voided any warranty with the clutch, and the car was never brought back to have the headbolts re-torqued, which should have been done after a few weeks of driving, before the long trip towing a horse float. Rocker pedastal bolts should also have been checked.

Kilma is spot-on with likening this guy to Dave Smith aka "EMO" or "Elmo" haha. Both committed bastard acts which left 'friends' hurt and out of pocket, and then disappeared without any intention of paying them back. Both parties should be avoided, or if sighted either stab them, bust kneecaps - whatever takes your fancy really. Don't even feel bad. They have it coming to them, along with lots of other horrible, nasty s**t when Karma catches up with them.

Sorry for the thread hijack Frankieh, looks like your car is coming along nicely. Good luck with the $2000 budget haha. It's not going to last very long with 10-11psi running through it, but best of luck anyway. Will be watching this with interest

-Jais.

Just to show you guys that it's still moving slowly.. here are some more photos.. I have the motor up in an engine stand now so I was able to rotate and photograph it..

This first one shows you the relocated oil filter adaptor base, the steal plate that holds the SC in place and the outlet area for which I am making an adaptor.



This next one shows stage one of the base plate just under where it will be bolted.



Bit of a closer shot of the adaptor.. the pipe is mandral bent off a komatsu.. the plate as you can see, is considerably thick.



Next step was to work out how to funnel the air into the pipe rather than restrict air flow.. so had to make a template so I can cut it all from one sheet.







Then trim it down nice and neat..








Then I sliced down the tape in the smallest area and peeled it off in one piece.. stuck it down on some cardboard and cut out the shape it made.

Trial fitted all good, just need to cut it out on steel and weld it in place..

Things are still moving long slowly..

In other news, I found the oil leak in the EL motor I detailed elsewhere and it's one I've not seen before.. the guy I bought it from had 1.5 litres too much oil in it.. so it got around that by blowing the seal out of the oil pressure switch and squiting oil out from beside the wire terminal.. never seen that before. Now I need a new pressure switch. (because I'm using the ED Ghia guage, I need pressure switch not a pressure sender...)

Anyone got one for sale?


rgds

Frank

Last edited by frankieh on Sun Mar 01, 2009 10:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.

PLEASE GO BACK A PAGE AND LOOK AT THE OUTLET FROM THE SUPERCHARGER IN DESIGN AND FABRICATION MODE.
http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopi ... &start=201




MATE - I have three for sale - All of them have the same issue as yours - Or would have if you put them on. The black plastic covers on them are about 1mm thick where they are glue (or pressed or whatever) into the metal bolt type thing that screws into the engine block. As it happens the long reach 27mm socket I was using has a narrow head right up in the socket and I keep snapping the plastic casing away from the metal insert when putting the sender in without removing manifolds and doing it in engine bay. Next time I am going to chop off an old 27mm spanner and weld some rod, plate or pipe onto it so that as I wiggle and turn I am not breaking the plastic away for a FOURTH time! Hahaha. Live and learn. Doesn't matter how damn careful you are if the socket is forcing itself over the plastic housing - a movement of .5mm once you're a couple of turns in will fracture the old plastic.

I bought one from local Ford dealers for $25 second hand...

The first one I put in worked briefly and then dumped expensive oil with Nulon 15 (another $40) in a nice trail for about 10km before I worked out what was happening (luck more than knowledge...)

The plastic seal in there seperates and the oil comes out when the plastic housing isn't holding the springlike plunger in position. It must have been a bit dodgy to give up and leak oil, and would have been providing an oil pressure reading way off the mark, surely?

I wonder if some wire, glue and spit would hold one of these units together? -- Nah, better off finding one that has never been broken to start with.


Boy, do I type too much. One of the drawbacks of being a reasonably quick keyboard jockey....




Looking like a nice smooth transition from SCharger to pipe there. Nice way of thinking - pity it's all hidden underneath the BBManifold and no one will ever get to go "ooooo - look at that"...

I'm tempted to find somewhere to put a oil pressure gauge and just stick an aftermarket sender in there..

I'm using the EA-ED ghia digital gauge in the EL if I can make it fit.. it doesn't have a oil pressure..

having said that I could graft a digital one where the doors open warning thingy is.. perhaps a digital boost gauge as well.

I've given the adaptor over to my brother in law who is gonna do the mig work as he's a much neater welder than I am..

After that adaptor is finished and on the charger, the engine will be ready for the car.. just have to get the car ready for the engine.

Dude - I just read the WHOLE saga of FORDMANS BA install into EL and was disappointed like hell, as this would be a dream of mine in the distant future once the worlds ecomony improves enough for me to get more than 500 NZ Peso a week. Anyways, you were saying in no uncertain terms that you'd be out kicking his butt in your blown EL.

Just wish I was in Perth to come over every weekend and use your tools, pick your brains and generally give that M90 a nudge...

By the way - Did I just see that Mazda puts an M90 on a V6 territory type kiddy mover?...

I believe so yes.. I also know that Toyota puts one on their Aurion performance car...

It aint done yet, but I'm getting there.