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| Steady ED |
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Yeah it plugs into the J3 port of the ECU.
And yes, it's got it's own switch that can switch it off (back to factory tune) or to one of several tunes stored on the chip. Look up info on twEECer, it's very very similar. Best bet is talking to a tuner. No point getting something if you can't find anyone to tune it.
_________________ ED XR8 Sprint - S-Trim, V500, 249rwkw |
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| frankieh |
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hmmm Is a Tweecer worth considering?
looked at their site and there is a guy not far from me that sells and uses them. http://www.tweecer.com/resellers.htm#Australia Might be a cheaper option than capa whom I've always considered abit overpriced. |
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| Steady ED |
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That guy not far from you would be "XR9UTE" on here.
Last time I spoke to Pete he was having trouble getting them. I don't think any 4L EECs are supported anyway. It's worth a question though. I'd speak to BPT regarding the CAPA chip, they seem to be getting good results with it.
_________________ ED XR8 Sprint - S-Trim, V500, 249rwkw |
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| frankieh |
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Yeah.. that might be the best bet..
Initially I spose I'll actually only be putting out about 5psi of boost so the standard ECU will suffice to get everything else sorted, then I'll get the 10psi pulley and do the ECU upgrade at the same time.. and get it all dyno tuned.... even at 5psi it'll give me a boost off the line... but can't wait to get to 10.. |
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| frankieh |
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Today I'm going to pick up dizzy and rotor for the new motor so I can change them when I have the charger off.. and I'm fixing the rewire of the ECU so that the EA/ED trip computer works again...
Then start working out the piping for the charger/intercooler |
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| Grimketel |
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[quote="Steady ED"]It's not a flash tuner , that is for BA-BF, and I think AUII and III as well?
quote] flash tuner will work on AU, affirmative.
_________________ enough isn't enough |
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| frankieh |
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40 bucks on a dizzy cap and rotor button.. (Bosch) does that sound right? seems abit pricey. still, got them now so one less thing to find.
I've been looking at options for the pipework.. it seems really really expensive for just aluminium pipe.. I'm wondering if I can just use 3 inch exhaust pipe, because I can weld and work with that. Silicon pipes and joiners are also pretty pricey.. I can get them cheaper on Ebay, but figured I'd ask you guys if you have any ideas.. what to keep this job on budget if I can. any thoughts? |
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| huggiebear |
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yeah pipework is pricey.. if i was you id go behind exhaust shops at night and steal offcuts.. or go to wreckers and cut piping off turbo cars and just join them how you need/want
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| huggiebear |
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oh and 40 is about the norm for dizzy's
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| frankieh |
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Not a bad idea about the exhaust shops.. all the ones around here seem to have fences around them.. i doubt 3 inch pipe is all that common either.
still, will look around till I find some.. The silicon bits are the most expensive though.. about 29 bucks each on ebay and I need a fair few of them. |
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| huggiebear |
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jump on some turbo forums (calaisturbo.com,nissansilvia.com i think they are) and hunt around for second hand parts.
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| schnoods |
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frankieh wrote: 40 bucks on a dizzy cap and rotor button.. (Bosch) does that sound right? seems abit pricey. still, got them now so one less thing to find.
I've been looking at options for the pipework.. it seems really really expensive for just aluminium pipe.. I'm wondering if I can just use 3 inch exhaust pipe, because I can weld and work with that. Silicon pipes and joiners are also pretty pricey.. I can get them cheaper on Ebay, but figured I'd ask you guys if you have any ideas.. what to keep this job on budget if I can. any thoughts? What size is the throttle body on your car. If you are going to utilise a front mount intercooler, I'd be going 2-2.5 inch maximum. too big of a diametre pipe will be more volume to fill before its pressurised, could be slight throttle lag, even though a positive displacement comes on early. I'd be leaving it a 2", steel pipe is fine as you'll be able to weld that no probs, go a 2mm wall and she wont be too heavy, aluminium is the go, but its dearer to get, if you cant weld it, its an arm and a leg. If you keep your piping under 3", joiners are cheap. Supercheap are pretty cheap for joiners, maybe also look at a "universal" intercooler kit on ebay.
_________________ Because of Beer, Thirst is a Beautiful Thing! |
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| frankieh |
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Hi Schnoods...
I have a new 2.5 inch exhaust in my shed rafters.. never been used but its for a 351 in an XC van so not likely to find another use for it.. It would do the job nicely.. I actually wanted to use 2.5 inch piping, because its easier to route and the outlet on the charger is 2.5 inch.. but I kept hearing people talk about 3 inches.. The inlet and outlet on the intercooler are both 3 inch, but no probs getting adapters for that. If 2.5 inch is good, for all piping, then I'm laughing, I can just chop up the exhaust.. it has loads of curves so some creative cutting could solve most of my probs. I just wired up the injector feed from the ECU to the EA trip computer, so I got signal again.. .and while I was there, I separated the wire that feeds the BBM switch.. And that got me thinking.. The switch will probably not be strong enough to fight against the air pressure forced in by the charger anyway, and it serves no purpose on a blown motor anyway, so should I wire the BBM in the open position and just leave it there or is there some benefit in leaving it in place to switch at 3500 ??? rgds Frank |
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| huggiebear |
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id just disconnect the hose and block it.
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| schnoods |
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frankieh wrote: Hi Schnoods...
I have a new 2.5 inch exhaust in my shed rafters.. never been used but its for a 351 in an XC van so not likely to find another use for it.. It would do the job nicely.. I actually wanted to use 2.5 inch piping, because its easier to route and the outlet on the charger is 2.5 inch.. but I kept hearing people talk about 3 inches.. The inlet and outlet on the intercooler are both 3 inch, but no probs getting adapters for that. If 2.5 inch is good, for all piping, then I'm laughing, I can just chop up the exhaust.. it has loads of curves so some creative cutting could solve most of my probs. I just wired up the injector feed from the ECU to the EA trip computer, so I got signal again.. .and while I was there, I separated the wire that feeds the BBM switch.. And that got me thinking.. The switch will probably not be strong enough to fight against the air pressure forced in by the charger anyway, and it serves no purpose on a blown motor anyway, so should I wire the BBM in the open position and just leave it there or is there some benefit in leaving it in place to switch at 3500 ??? rgds Frank 2.5 would be perfect for it. Some 2.5-3" joiners would be readily available. I used 3" pipe for my intake, though with no intercooler it has only 1 foot of piping, if i was to utilise an intercooler, i'd step down to 2". Cut up that exhaust, unless you can sell it for some dough, I cant see it be utilised at all.
_________________ Because of Beer, Thirst is a Beautiful Thing! |
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