So I just got off the phone to Capa organising my Re-calibrated computer chip plus auto trans control thingo.
And he asked me what injectors they sent me, and I said the blue ones, but I was going to just keep using the factory ones.
Reason being is I got the 9psi kit (as it's not much more and includes way more goodies - injectors, fuel pump and water injection system), but with a 6psi pulley fitted instead (as I want it to happily run on duel fuel and I don't think the LPG side of things can handle much more - I can always upgrade later on). Now the 6 psi kit doesn't come with injectors or the fuel pump, so I assumed since I'm running a 6psi kit I wouldn't use the fuel pump or injectors, but they've just told me to do so. Isn't this going to result in too much petrol going in now?

Not if the chip they are giving you is tuned for the uprated injectors.

if it's only running at 6psi i can't see why you'd need to fit the 9psi gear.

but on the other hand, i don't think it would put too much petrol in - it should only feed what is needed. it's not as if the 9psi pump would be feeding the fuel for 9psi if it's running at 6psi.

i could be way off though

Let me elaborate
My GUESS is they are giving you are mix/match of parts, 9psi kit injectors and fuel pump, with 6psi pulley, and a chip tuned especially to suit this (hmmm).
I'm again guessing the reason for this is to give you headroom should you want to up the boost (swap pulley, retune, away you go).
Double check with them though...
Also, to be certain, I'd get it to a dyno as soon as you put it all in, and get the AFRs measured.
Better to be running a bit rich then alot lean

Bam! Spot on.

The chips that CAPA provide... arent the makings of rocket science. Kill a bit of timing up high, give you a bit more down low and dump those injectors open under boost.

They have preset chips to suit their chips. They dont do "custom" tunes on them per se. They are set for fixed injector sizes and tuned with the relevant FMU in mind. They prob gave you a lower rate FMU for the bigger injectors (find out what rate the FMU is... i had a 12:1 using 19# inj on the V8)

Use the bigger injectors. Use the inline fuel pump. You cant have too much fuel.

LPG will be.... interesting... think you'll be somewhat on your own with that side of things....

I would echo steady's comments... and CAPA have probably said similar... to get her dyno'd immediately.

This is where belt alignment is SO SO SO SO important. Low RPM/load is very forgiving on poor belt alignment... but the slightest hint of boost will have it walking off those pulleys. And in reality, the first time it hits boost should be on the dyno, and i dont think you wanna be paying $50 an hour for dyno time whilst you're fiddling with belt alignement...

BTW, how's the install going?

well i thought it was done, bar the bit of pipe at the engineer having the BOV mount welded on, and the chip from Capa, but now I have to do the injectors and the fuel pupmp - just the wiring of the fuel pump that i'm not looking forward to as I'll need to check it's not running when on LPG as might run dry or something then.
The water injection isn't going on for now, got an intercooler that I'll fit later, and then spray it with water rather - and got a bloke who'll do the piping all nice - just that moneys the issue for now.

Why the dyno? If it's stock ECU with just the capa chip, it's not like they can do any tuning is it? Or am I dynoing it just to check the fuel ratio, and then go to hassle Capa if it's not right.

O, and in regards to the fuel pump, it's a second pump that goes in the line, you still retain and use the original fuel pump to.

The FMU (which I believe is what Capa call the rising rate fuel pressure regulator) is a 6:1 - that's whats written in white out on top. It's shiny blue, looks pretty, pitty it goes where it's not seen.

As said before the injectors are blue tops, anyone know any specs on them?
They are genuine Ford ones, part number seems to be F1TE-D9A. Possibly made by Robert Bosch for Ford as looks like a Bosch part number on the rear, '0 280 150 947'.

I don't understand how to adjust the belts alignment though? But once the fuel tanks in and I can reinstall the battery I'll kick it over with the starter motor and see how it's looking. I've ordered a spare belt into work.

The main problem is I've taken on too much at once, I'm still needing to sand the bulge on the bonnet, finish cleaning out the fuel tank and reinstall, finish off the front steering, and i've got the interior in peices doing the incar entertainment, plus this blower...

Bingo, if it's not right, hassle CAPA and get it fixed.
Better to find out on a dyno then it is to be blowing headgaskets (or worse!) whenever you hit boost.

Hmmmmm... I'm only aware of one place with a dyno ehre, and there a bunch of a***hole, I've droped stuff there for work...

Bosch 0 280 150 947
255cc/m (24lb)
(Light) blue
Est 51hp each
Applicatin - FORD Truck 7.5L V8(IC-080)

Yep.

Unless you've a wideband o2 sensor? We may seem like we're talking small amounts of boost here... but we're still talking enough air to cause BIG problems if a lean condition should prevail. Doesnt take much detonation with 6psi to start causing problems.... you like replacing head gaskets? lol

Basically you want to know that you have a safe AF condition. If you're keen on a bet, by all means, take it out on the street and flog it.



Yep, that's definately the set up for 24# injectors. Much much better solution than stockers with a 12:1. I was asking my fuel pump to deliver fuel at 90psi. Almost 3 times stock fuel pressure. You'll be asking for a little over stock from what i can tell.



Visual alignment as per capa's instructions are good... straight edge for horizontal alignment, the fishing line with the hooks for vertical alignment.

To adjust.... shim shim shim.

Main choices:

- Shim between the bracket and the engine (at various points to get the pulleys running parrallel with one another)

- Shim between the bracket and the blower (to move the now-parrallel blower pulley in line with the engine pulleys)

- Shim between the tensioner arm and the pulley (bring tensioner pulleys in line with blower/engine pulleys)

Lol, obviously not all at once... figure out what needs to happen with the alignement... then shim appropriately.



Rome wasnt built in a day

hey mate to align the belt is very easy, you have two posts that hold the pullys out from the bracket, if you give the engine a sharp rev you can see if the belt is wandering of the pullys if it is then get a big spanner i think its 1inch and turn the post very slightly and try again till you get it right.

ps its really only the bottom pully you need to worry about.

Cheers

slightly OT - which place was that? i want to get mine onto a dyno pretty soon

Howells Automotive, they used to be next door to where you work, I think they moved maybe?

Are the posts angeled or something, so turning them changes the pulleys horizontalness?

Then considering I'll fit the second inline fuel pump, it probably won't be pushing the original fuel pump too hard at all, will it?