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bry40l |
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I honestly think its ugly and not worth it. Unless you got the upgraded internals its not worth the effort. You can build decent n/a motors that are putting out 180+rwkw these days
_________________ BF XR6 |
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StevenBruzz |
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y not there 200$ n can get like 10psi out of them in my eyes its a cheap bang for buck now obviously working the motor full will help but every bit counts yes?
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SWC |
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{USERNAME} wrote: y not there 200$ n can get like 10psi out of them in my eyes its a cheap bang for buck now obviously working the motor full will help but every bit counts yes? Would you like to type in english, it does help to try and understand what you are attemting to say. With the effort and time involved in fitting up an SC14 you could spend the same time and effort and fit an Eaton or similar. Last edited by SWC on Sun Apr 20, 2014 9:42 am, edited 1 time in total. |
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xcabbi |
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{USERNAME} wrote: y not there 200$ n can get like 10psi out of them in my eyes its a cheap bang for buck now obviously working the motor full will help but every bit counts yes? Not quite. That is one small blower. Even on a dead stock 3.8 Holden motor the show is over by 4000rpm, it would be earlier on a falcon motor. If you were planning to add a cam and ported head into the mix then the engine would most likely swallow more air than that tiny blower can physically provide. At best it will be a restriction, at worst it will s**t itself in the most unspectacular way. Then you have installation costs. So you get the blower for 200 bucks. Then you need to mount it. If you are a novice with fab work and want a neat result then factor in some dollars. Your $200 could end up to $2000 by the time it's all in the hole with a belt on it. Then you need to look at tuning and fuel requirements. There is more than one way to skin a cat here. The cheapest being a Hobbs pressure switch and an extra injector (or 2) in the intake pipe (it worked very well on VL turbo's in the 90's). After that you can go for a rising rate fuel regulator (not cheap and nasty, just nasty in my opinion) like a malpassi 12:1. Personally I hate the things. Then you have factory ECU tuning solutions such as a J3 chip, 1/4 horse, or flash tune. Coupled with a set of correctly sized injectors this would be the best way to go. You retain the factory ECU and you can get your tuning spot on. Last but not least in the tuning hierarchy is a stand alone ECU such as an Ems or Motec. Fine if you s**t blank cheques for a living or are running a real oddball engine combination but pretty useless for most of us. Say you went with a J3 and you wanted to play with it yourself. You are looking at around 500 bucks for a tuning kit and another 3-400 bucks for a set of bigger injectors. So, where did that $200 go again? |
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bry40l |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: y not there 200$ n can get like 10psi out of them in my eyes its a cheap bang for buck now obviously working the motor full will help but every bit counts yes? Not quite. That is one small blower. Even on a dead stock 3.8 Holden motor the show is over by 4000rpm, it would be earlier on a falcon motor. If you were planning to add a cam and ported head into the mix then the engine would most likely swallow more air than that tiny blower can physically provide. At best it will be a restriction, at worst it will s**t itself in the most unspectacular way. Then you have installation costs. So you get the blower for 200 bucks. Then you need to mount it. If you are a novice with fab work and want a neat result then factor in some dollars. Your $200 could end up to $2000 by the time it's all in the hole with a belt on it. Then you need to look at tuning and fuel requirements. There is more than one way to skin a cat here. The cheapest being a Hobbs pressure switch and an extra injector (or 2) in the intake pipe (it worked very well on VL turbo's in the 90's). After that you can go for a rising rate fuel regulator (not cheap and nasty, just nasty in my opinion) like a malpassi 12:1. Personally I hate the things. Then you have factory ECU tuning solutions such as a J3 chip, 1/4 horse, or flash tune. Coupled with a set of correctly sized injectors this would be the best way to go. You retain the factory ECU and you can get your tuning spot on. Last but not least in the tuning hierarchy is a stand alone ECU such as an Ems or Motec. Fine if you s**t blank cheques for a living or are running a real oddball engine combination but pretty useless for most of us. Say you went with a J3 and you wanted to play with it yourself. You are looking at around 500 bucks for a tuning kit and another 3-400 bucks for a set of bigger injectors. So, where did that $200 go again? It can be cheap and fast but it wont be reliable, or it can be fast and reliable but it won't be cheap.
_________________ BF XR6 |
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xcabbi |
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On a 3.2L EA or 3.3 XF they would be alright but on a 3.9/4.0/4.1 they are just too small and run out of puff too early. About 15-20 years ago there was a 302w XF ute that had a pair of them but it worked because each blower was only feeding 2.5l worth of engine.
Much easier to stick with a head and cam for the same gains or go for an Eaton/Raptor/Turbo if you are looking to go north of 200rwkw. |
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StevenBruzz |
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yeah well im looking at a stage 3 crow cam n fitting along with the 3.45 lsd and t5 along with a custom tuned j3 chip to suit my car, then im going to look at port work
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