thanks andrew hopefully i can get it for around the 300-400 dollar mark and thats not a bad price, after all it is brand new. Apparently it's good for about 800hp It also comes with a vband exhaust clamp what the hell is a vband exhaust clamp

tickford_6 not quite sure but i have a feeling it's off the rb20, i'll find out and i'll certainly keep it in mind anyway.

 

 

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t4gt45.JPG [ 22.6 KiB | Viewed 247 times ]

just be prepared for things to break/go wrong if your doing everything the cheap way. a TO4 would be suitable to use. not to small but not a big turbo either

Ring this guy he has XR6t intercooler for sale..
Save and buy GT3540 in this area $1650 is a good deal and the heart of your power maker..

The v band exhaust clamp is what holds the waste gate onto the outlet of the exhaust side of the turbo. And dont thank me, i may not be right!

V band is just a different way of securing the dump pipe to the exhaust housing... its a big clamp that holds the two "lipped" type flanges together instead of using studs... V band is a good idea as alot of the time studs can be bloody hard to get out once they've been in there awhile

Thats a cheap chinese turbo, 300 does not buy a real turbo... some of them are glued together... say no more

Now lets say you get your skyline turbo, thats got a T3 housing so you can get any manifold made for it and still be ok for a upgrade to a correctly matched T4 sized turbo later on, and yeah its small but it will work and give boost, but power will drop off seriously fast over 4000...
You have to get oil lines sorted, but thats straight forward, dont be a tightass and use that crap skyline cooler, get a cheap $179 600 300 75 off ebay and you'll get more kws from the little nissan turbo... IC piping price depends on your abilities... can u cut pipe and measure it yourself? mostlikely you can...
Fuel and timing is where your main concern should be... this little turbo will be boosting hard, more so around 12psi to reach 160wkws, air will be really really hot si your IC choice is mandatory, no less than 600 300 75 or the motor will detonate early.
So 12psi is pretty high, but fine IF your using aftermarket ecu and larger injs, but your not are you, your hoping to use a rising rate reg and hope for the best...

So do it, put it all on, document it all for us and dyno it so you/we can all share from it, then we can see whats really possible from a cheap set up.
Bare in mind there's a lot of work, and 160wkws isnt too hard from NA... and just dont be suprised if you end up with a dead motor in a few months

hey chef thanks for the heads up, with your build did you have the motor rebuilt before your turbo setup?
Sweet as with the turbo apparently it's worth $1100, just as long as they hot glue it . I think i'll give it a miss.
I went out and brought a fuel reg today for $80, it a universal one thats able to work up till 15psi (roughly 1 bar).
But i'll keep ya posted and let you know how things are going.

 

 

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File comment: diagram of the Fuel Reg FPR-DEMO.GIF [ 25 KiB | Viewed 1014 times ]

your best of just spending the money the first time and doing it right, a set of 42lb injectors are cheap as chips on american ebay, then you'll need a computer to run them but its alot better then blowing up your motor.

I think you'll find thats 15psi fuel pressure, not boost pressure. Your standard reg does about 38psi.

1 bar is atmo... 2 bar 14.7 above atmo @ sea level...
Double check that you have correct reg? It could be a carb type ???
Sard are more acurate also.. Malpasi don't always return back to correct pressure..In boosted engines or rising rate conditions...