the boost will be that same unless you set the wastegate to a lower boost.
in the case of the head you would make more power on the same boost

I understand that, I was just trying to make the point, that boost is only a reference of a restricted air flow. Some people are under the opinion that because they run 20psi into an engine, that it'll produce more power then the same engine with port work/larger valves running only 15psi..

wadesta, your right, having the coldest intake temp possible makes a huge different, you only have to drive a turbo car on a cold morning to notice how much more power they have.

And thirdly, The kit comes with an intercooler!

superchager/ turbo charged. as far as the engine is concerned boost is boost
doesn't matter where it comes from


i agree it better to use the boost more efficiantly. but there still comes a point when you need to use more of it.


this is what i mean by buying one that works well, not one that works ok.


you may see 12psi manifold pressure but put a boost gauge on the turbo side of the intercooler, cheap one (intercooler) can have over 7psi more on the turbo side.
this is not using boost efficiantly, extra heat is created, making the inlet temp higher aswell. a good intercooler should only have about 2psi difference. less inlet heat= more efficiant setup.


are you trying to tell us not to run more boost because you dont want as much power??

I understand that, I was just trying to make the point, that boost is only a reference of a restricted air flow. Some people are under the opinion that because they run 20psi into an engine, that it'll produce more power then the same engine with port work/larger valves running only 15psi..

wadesta, your right, having the coldest intake temp possible makes a huge different, you only have to drive a turbo car on a cold morning to notice how much more power they have.

the smart people realise that head flow is still important with boosted engines and will have the head ported to suit, use the right cam and manifolds, and achieve even more power with out turning up the boost.

case in point my bosses SR20 180SX stock engine with bolt ons made 250rwkw on 24psi,
then we striped it built it with good internals had the head ported got a good Gready intake, a 6boost external gate exhaust manifold and a set of cams that match the head flow and the intended use of the car. with a soft tune (read bugger all ignition timming and to mch feul) it made 280rwkw on 13psi and broke the output shaft 1 day befor we had a dyno booked so we could do so real tunning.


lets just say we now turn the boost back up to 24psi

And from what he was saying about the knock sensor headphones, Apparently there are only 2 pairs of them in W.A. and that its not a common practice.

Without absurdly expensive test equipment ,
probably the best way to find your ideal timing is by using "regular" gas
and installing a Knock Sensor that is attached to a small amplifier that
powers a set of headphones that you wear while driving .
(be carefull this is illeagal in most States)
The headphones should be the type that seal around your ears ,
these are harder to find now but they are still availible , if you have
plenty of cash the "Bose" Noise Cancelling Headphones are the way to go.

When you get this setup working you should be able to hear almost
everything going on inside your engine , including Detonation or "Knock"
VERY obviously . It's much easier for your ears to tune out all the other
engine noises than it is to design an electronic filter that singles out the
sounds of detonation and then triggers another curcuit .

Keep advancing your entire Advance table by doing a Table Transform
and "shifting" your whole table up about 3 degrees at a time until you
get your engine to knock at Wide Open Throttle WFO ,
start at low rpm and work your way up ,
this is dangerous business for your engine ,
when you hear Detonation back off imeadiately and let your engine
recover for at least 15 or 20 seconds .
Take note of the rpm and kPa , (kPa should be close to 100)
back off the timing 2 degrees in that bin and try again until the engine
will not knock at that particular rpm and kPa bin ,
once you get all of your 100 kPa bins done you need to reduce every
100kPa bin by 3 to 5 degrees ,
now you can move down to the 90 and 80 kPa rows ,
below 80kPa you may not be able to get your engine to Knock ,
in that case you need to progressively add a total of appox. 60% of
the new timing figure at 100kPa , in that particular rpm column ,
to the 20kPa bin .

superchager/ turbo charged. as far as the engine is concerned boost is boost
doesn't matter where it comes from

And from what he was saying about the knock sensor headphones, Apparently there are only 2 pairs of them in W.A. and that its not a common practice.