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| Grimketel |
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Slick wrote: Did you mean over time as in the life of the engine? OR measurement over time as back to back runs with the bonnet closed?
im not sure what you mean by that but the measurments purpose was to see how much hp had been lost since they were made, ie they did the dyno run to get rwhp, then did the "run down" sequence on the dyno to convert current rwhp to current flywheel hp, then compared the amount of fwhp the car had now as opposed to new for the purpose of the challenge (which was to see which of the 3 cars they tested had lost the most over time.) all Im saying is if there is a reliable method of converting rwhp to fwhp on a dyno, why dont we have that in australia. BTW the dnyo was called a "rolling road" by them, and was like a big trailer on which the whole car was mounted, not just the rear end, like a lot of ours...
_________________ enough isn't enough |
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| Slick |
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I see what you mean, like keeping a running history of your car. of course it'll loose power over time. with todays cars, the sensors will wear out just as much as an engine loosing compression or worn moving parts.
_________________ Mind f**k!!! it works on feeble minded ignorant sheeples... there's plenty of em on this site... some are very intelligent but by god they are so thick!!! Pakrat wrote: You can buy them seppertly
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| Redford |
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good results for a blower without an intercooler. so how much power gain so far from just bolting on the raptor, did you install the capa flash tuner?
_________________ Speed Safely! |
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| Slick |
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I think he's gain a good 60 to 80 rwkws depending on the condition of his engine. BA N/A is around 115- 130rwkw give or take.
I'm sure the raptor kit badcooky brought came with a flash unit as well. intercool or water injection & a fine tune should see the numbers going up I reckon. overall a good result from a straight forward bolt on system.
_________________ Mind f**k!!! it works on feeble minded ignorant sheeples... there's plenty of em on this site... some are very intelligent but by god they are so thick!!! Pakrat wrote: You can buy them seppertly
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| badcooky |
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Yes most dyno's it's RWHP =FWKW but not this one,it's the meanest dyno in town that's why i used it.Pete said if you are 300EKW you'll go 270RWHP it's his dyno.
I got 242 from the other one but thats too much but hey it's a dyno run so i could use it but that's for fools.Most s**t hunt around for a dyno that will read high so they think it's cool with big numbers and get hosed by some s**t with way lower numbers,i go the other way so i know when i've made gains the hard way,they will perform. The first AFR was way lean so to track it down we put a F P reg in it a new filter and a new fuel pump. Yep haven't touched the tune yet so there's more about. An intercooler would be grouse. The rule of thumb with Centri's is you have to go 25% bigger at your intake and pipeing to your TB,as we are at about the same size it's a no brainer where to find more power at a tiny cost.
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| Grimketel |
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XH5LWEPN wrote: General rule of the thumb and being more accurate is that you lose 17-20% power through the manual 5spd and 20-22% through an auto.
that cant be right, logically anyway... say you have a stock engined el falcon auto, that produces 105 rwkw (which is what i am led to believe the standard for them is) you have lost 33% from drive train and parasitic loss. now say you have an el xr8 with the 185kw motor, using that formula you would loose 61kw as compared to a stock i6 loosing 52kw... the piont im trying to make here is that the difference between fwkw and rwkw should not be percentage based, it should remain static no matter the horsepower of the engine.... an auto with power steering, aircon, and all that jazz will drain the same amount of power no matter the motor. so basically you can say that on an average dyno a warm i6 with 130 rwkw has 182 at the engine using the general rule of 52kw used to drive accesories and drivetrain... Or am I missing something?
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| Slick |
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badcooky wrote: Yes most dyno's it's RWHP =FWKW but not this one,it's the meanest dyno in town that's why i used it.Pete said if you are 300EKW you'll go 270RWHP it's his dyno.
I got 242 from the other one but thats too much but hey it's a dyno run so i could use it but that's for fools.Most s**t hunt around for a dyno that will read high so they think it's cool with big numbers and get hosed by some s**t with way lower numbers,i go the other way so i know when i've made gains the hard way,they will perform. The first AFR was way lean so to track it down we put a F P reg in it a new filter and a new fuel pump. Yep haven't touched the tune yet so there's more about. An intercooler would be grouse. The rule of thumb with Centri's is you have to go 25% bigger at your intake and pipeing to your TB,as we are at about the same size it's a no brainer where to find more power at a tiny cost. Good thinking cooky. its usually how I think & cut down on unnecessarily work and cost. the safest & easiest way of deterring unforeseen distraction is water/meth injection.  the best setup I've seen is cooling mist & the like. I had some awesome links on DIY but I just couldn't find it on goggle, its been a while. would of saved you a hundred or more on parts......
_________________ Mind f**k!!! it works on feeble minded ignorant sheeples... there's plenty of em on this site... some are very intelligent but by god they are so thick!!! Pakrat wrote: You can buy them seppertly
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| Steady ED |
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More Grunt wrote: XH5LWEPN wrote: General rule of the thumb and being more accurate is that you lose 17-20% power through the manual 5spd and 20-22% through an auto. that cant be right, logically anyway... say you have a stock engined el falcon auto, that produces 105 rwkw (which is what i am led to believe the standard for them is) you have lost 33% from drive train and parasitic loss. now say you have an el xr8 with the 185kw motor, using that formula you would loose 61kw as compared to a stock i6 loosing 52kw... the piont im trying to make here is that the difference between fwkw and rwkw should not be percentage based, it should remain static no matter the horsepower of the engine.... an auto with power steering, aircon, and all that jazz will drain the same amount of power no matter the motor. so basically you can say that on an average dyno a warm i6 with 130 rwkw has 182 at the engine using the general rule of 52kw used to drive accesories and drivetrain... Or am I missing something? It's not the accesories that are sapping the power, most manufacturers these days quote rated power with all accesories, its drive train losses that are giving you a lower rwkw figure. And it could very well be a percentage. More power may meen more tailshaft deflection, more slip in automatic transmissions, more power making the convertor feel looser, etc. etc. It's not a simple thing, there is a hell of alot of variables.
_________________ ED XR8 Sprint - S-Trim, V500, 249rwkw |
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| schnoods |
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Pull the motor out and get it on the Dyno!!!
Thing is a set of diff gears or using a different ratioed gearbox will effect the behaiviour and reading of a car. A well geared car with less accesories can very much well be on par with a car with a tad more power. Still, either way its a good result. 
_________________ Because of Beer, Thirst is a Beautiful Thing! |
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| Grimketel |
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I suppose whats its making at the flywheel is moot, since its what its making at the back tyres that matters in the real world...
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| badcooky |
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Going to Chiptorque on the 28th to fine tune their X-flash that came in the Supercharger kit.
Hopefully before then i will have put in an 3.45 LSD stiffened up the S5 and serviced the auto.No point going till i have done those couple of things. i'll have them dial out the speed limiter and depending on the power curve raise the cut out as well if need be.
_________________ BA XL ute. |
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