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| seanb2800 |
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I was wondering is there any other way i can put a oil drain line from the turbo back into the engine without welding the connection into the sump ?
is it possible to put the connection into the rocker cover or anything would this do any damage to the engine or would it work ? I have a H.E Sump and was told i may not be able to weld the connection into it.
_________________ [SOLD] 1992 Ford EB Turbo (EF Engine) |
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| Disco Frank |
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afaik the oil line has to lower than the bottom of the turbo
i do not think a shallow angle will work that well as you would want the oil to flow freely. you do not have to weld it to the sump i am sure as hell you could put a thread in there OR maybe not sure on this tap the bottom of the block near the sump but no idea if this will cause clearance issues with the crank etc i am sure someone with more knowalge would be able to help
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| seanb2800 |
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yea i thought the oil line had to be lower then the turbo but i was told about the rocker cover and thought id just ask.
how do you mean by putting a thread into the sump ? do i still need to weld ? it was something about welding on the sump that we couldnt do (material of the sump or something) ...
_________________ [SOLD] 1992 Ford EB Turbo (EF Engine) |
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| schnoods |
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Depends if you are handy with a lathe.
I have seen a return fitting made up by a bloke at work for his skyline (yeah i know), it was similar to a nut and bolt set up, but the bolt was hollow. On either side of the nut and bolt was an O-ring so it was a good seal, though it is a bit of mucking around considering you have to take the sump off anyway to fit...
_________________ Because of Beer, Thirst is a Beautiful Thing! |
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| seanb2800 |
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oh ok yeah I wanna try to do it without removing the sump.
or is it easy to remove the sump while the engine is still in the car... it is a High Energy sump so its not the standard sump. i got told i can by lowering the K frame... what do i do to lower this ? is it just a few bolts ? not too keen on taking the engine out as I only just put it in not long ago.
_________________ [SOLD] 1992 Ford EB Turbo (EF Engine) |
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| Disco Frank |
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schnoods wrote: Depends if you are handy with a lathe.
I have seen a return fitting made up by a bloke at work for his skyline (yeah i know), it was similar to a nut and bolt set up, but the bolt was hollow. On either side of the nut and bolt was an O-ring so it was a good seal, though it is a bit of mucking around considering you have to take the sump off anyway to fit... sounds like he made a modified banjo bolt same as what connects brake lines to calipers etc i had these fittings on teh oil lines on my 250cc bike
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| ltd351T |
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what is the sump made from? your best option is to remove the sump by whatever means required and weld a fitting on.
Alternatively, If its a steel sump, just bash a hole and silicone some pipe into the hole, seriously, just get some punches/something round and bash a nice round hole in the sump, get some 5/8 or 3/4 steel pipe offcut, but dont fit it until everythings on, then fit up the drain, etc, and silicone the crap out of it, as long as you leave it alone it will not leak. If the sump is alloy, just pull it out, and weld it, unless you game enough to drill and tap in the car. |
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| EFFalcon |
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tap a hole, slowly make it bigger, then tap a thread into it.
screw in brass fitting with thread tape and hose clamp hose onto it. thats how MANY MANY do it. (inc mine)
_________________ FALCN6 - EF GLi Turbo, 20" Rims, Air Bag Suspension, Straight LPG, 225rwkw |
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| rsmith81 |
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I put my return line into the block. didn't have to take the sump off.
drilled into the block, then used a ratchet to tap the thread. just had to drain the engine oil out and flush turps thru the engine to make sure i got as much of the swarf out as possible... and job done. i used a 3/4" fitting. seems to flow fine. |
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| ltd351T |
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yeah plenty of people tap holes in whatever, but when not cleaned out properly its bye bye engine, lets not forget these use bypass oil filters, so not all the oil is filtered. If you know what your are doing tap the hole, sure, but all it takes is one tiny bit of steel to kcuf the engine. Keep that in mind, I've seen shop setup cars chew the bearings out because they were too slack to remove the sump.
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| shane falcon futura |
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hello party people, when i read this had to laugh ..ok being a welder and a bit of a mechanic its is a DUMB idea to drill into any part of the engine where oil and water will run i dont care how much flushing u do metal fragments are a engines worst nightmare. ok undo ur engine mounts lift up the engine using a block and tackle or a crane high enough to undo the sump and remove a bit of stuffing around but it will work, with the sump of position your drain drill your holes clean all the burrs and metal out of the sump,if your going weld like i am tack weld two nuts on the inside of the sump so when u put ur bolts in and tighten its will be nice and tight..and dont use to much heat other wise the sump wil warp ,now reinstall with new gaskets and your done no metal fragments no bashing holes in sump and no bearings geting chew up
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| Raptorsc |
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Get a 12V scavenge pump, tapping and drilling the sump is a major PITA and simply prone to leaks
The pumps are piss easy and in a few minutes you can have the whole shooting match installed and running with ever looking under the vehicle
_________________ Raptor SC, blow your mind ..... not your wallet |
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| britishracinggreen |
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coming from a plumber,
if s**t don't run down hill Just pump it! 
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