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| Gav_21 |
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hi all was hoping to get my turbo kit installed by the time i go back to work but im having trouble finding someone to install the oil return fitting that goes into the sump for me seeing as there all closed till jan10th, i was just gonna tap it in myself for now until it starts leaking then get it welded. but went to check out prices for the tap in the size i needed an it was 70bucks by itself lol then i have to buy a set of hole punches. so thought i would make a thread to see if anyone who already has all the tools required would do it for me for abit of cash or if anyone knows a place that isnt closed until jan10th that would do it for me
 i know its a long shot but ive got everything just sitting here and its starting to annoy me that it aint on the car yet lol im in Adelaide Hills Btw thanksPS car is a EB |
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| shane falcon futura |
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hi mate yeah easy to do lift the engine up using a crane or tackle take of the sump and dill your holes that way alot easyer to do out of the car as i found out doing mine that there is a s**t load of metal bits left over in the sump also be carfull if welding as the heat from the mig or tig will cause the metal to warp makes a gap on the leading edge where the sumbolts go have to keep the side of the sump as cool as possible ..i made that mistake on my one had to get another sump and start over i used 2 nuts bolts and lock tight on the thread to stop it coming undone so far its hasnt been a prob...yet
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| Gav_21 |
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dont have a crane or block an tackle lol
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| EBXR8380 |
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BIG block of wood between sump and jack to spread weight..
Then carefully jack engine up... Various sized punch's till it's big enough to tap a thread into... Then fit with thread sealer... Check Vortech supercharger site it's all there...
_________________ As in ZOOM 126 edition |
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| Gav_21 |
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i no how to do it ive read every thread bout the oil return on this site an boosted. but its gonna cost 100-120 just for the tools to do the job. so im seeing if anyone already has the tools an wants to do it for me or if i can borrow the tools to do it. if not i will just wait till everyone re opens on jan10th an get a shop to weld it for the same price
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| TROYMAN |
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dont take this the wrong way,
but if your tight enough to not want to spend $150 and a few tools to do the job, your turbo set up will never be 100%, as you will soon find when doing your turbo set up, with tuning, custom brackets,silicon hoses, pipwork, ect.. $150 is nothing... |
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| Gav_21 |
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i didnt take it the wrong way lol i just dont wanna fuk it up to be honest, i will give it a go but tapping only works half the time the other half it leaks. an yeh i no 150 bucks isnt much when doing a turbs setup but i just thought i would try to save myself abit of cash (got a $350 speeding fine on tuesday) so if i cant find someone who wants to do it was gonna get it welded at ther same price cos then i know it wont leak lol also no store in my town has a hole punch larger than a 19mm which sux haha
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| EBXR8380 |
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Make your own ?? Start with an old Philips screwdriver..??
Then work your way up...I've used sockets on extension... Don't drill as it can leave crud inside engine..
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| turbotrana |
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Has anyone ever successfully welded a oil return pipe into the sump with the engine still in the car. I find it hard to believe as I cant even get my MIG gun in there to get right around the pipe and the metal is so thin that its very easy to burn thru.
Even with the sump off the car and doing it with a TIG is hard enough due to the thickness of the metal sump. The best way is to punch a hole in the side. I have a punch that expands around 20mm and its welded onto a 1m length of pipe. I take the RHS tyre off and I can position the punch exactly where I want it with the bar poking out the side of the wheel arch. It is no problem then to smash the end of the bar to get desired size hole. Then you GLUE a 18mm pipe in with fuel take repair putty. You know the stuff knead together to repair your fuel tank and you push this around the pipe and sump to seal it. THis works fine. Forget welding until you have the engine out of the car. And for those that have the double lined EL sump, they are a phucker. THe stampings are so thin you can barely even TIG weld with it out of the car.
_________________ Turbo 6s rule |
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| EBXR8380 |
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Yep this stuff we use it heaps on underground electrical joints...
http://www.selleys.com.au/Selleys-Knead ... fault.aspx
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| 93_eb_fairmont |
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Why not run it to a catch can, then from the catch can get a double adaptor oil filter t piece, then screw it into that. A lot of ricers run them for oil feed but I dont see why it wont go the other way. Thought you had to run a catch can anyway to separate oil and air?
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| TROYMAN |
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93_eb_fairmont wrote: Why not run it to a catch can, then from the catch can get a double adaptor oil filter t piece, then screw it into that. A lot of ricers run them for oil feed but I dont see why it wont go the other way. Thought you had to run a catch can anyway to separate oil and air? it dont quite work that way.. |
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| turbo_will |
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Hi mate, were back on the 4th jan. I could weld a drain for you in car or remove kframe + sump and do it properally, your choice. Doing it in the car is a quick fix but will do the job, but it may leak and theres always the possibility of something getting into sump. We use airchisel to poke the hole, mig as much as possible usually cant get to the top bit though and sealant over it. Whenever the motors out next pull sump and weld it fully. Def recomend removing sump first time round.
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| Gav_21 |
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where are you located mate? an how much to take the sump out an do it properly the first time? thanks
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| 93_eb_fairmont |
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TROYMAN wrote: 93_eb_fairmont wrote: Why not run it to a catch can, then from the catch can get a double adaptor oil filter t piece, then screw it into that. A lot of ricers run them for oil feed but I dont see why it wont go the other way. Thought you had to run a catch can anyway to separate oil and air? it dont quite work that way.. Why? I thought that was the easiest way to do oil lines?
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