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| twr7cx |
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I've got a CAPA Powerdyne on my EF I6. It's the 9psi kit, but at the moment only running the 6 psi pulley. When I change to the 9 psi I'll need to cool the intake air in some form.
The kit included the CAPA water injection kit. I've also got a smallish intercooler liying around here, plus my mates old XR6 Turbo cooler, and I'm willing to buy another one if neither of those are appropriate. I'm just wondering if anyone can shed some light on which path I should take towards cooling - the way I currently view it, both have there ups and downs. Intercooler: Upside - Don't have to refill/check/maintain. Downside - the intercooler and extra piping will weigh more than the water cooling. Longer pipe work - possibly loose torque? Water cooling: Upside - can run a shorter intake pipe. Lighter than intercooler. Downside - requires continual maintence to ensure it's running (i.e. that pump hasn't failed etc.), and the water has to be refilled. Also advantage in running metho in it? |
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| CHEF |
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Mate a good big front mount with smooth high flowing 3 inch piping will retain all your torque and let you run more advance timing & boost.
I do a kit that suits XR6T for a grand, should be able to adapt it to a EF, or I have DIY kits to suit e series, for less. Wtaer/air coolers are really good too, but you do have to fill up ect... You could make a dry ice style one for drags/ dyno queen runs. Alot of top drag teams use water/air as they can get the flow huge air and cool dam well. Air/air is the chosen cooler system for ease and practicallity |
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| Disco Frank |
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dude go air to air
for what chef said
_________________ RIP SCOTT |
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| opto |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Mate a good big front mount with smooth high flowing 3 inch piping will retain all your torque and let you run more advance timing & boost.
I do a kit that suits XR6T for a grand, should be able to adapt it to a EF, or I have DIY kits to suit e series, for less. Wtaer/air coolers are really good too, but you do have to fill up ect... You could make a dry ice style one for drags/ dyno queen runs. Alot of top drag teams use water/air as they can get the flow huge air and cool dam well. Air/air is the chosen cooler system for ease and practicallity Why don't you tell him whats the most efficient intercooler ?
_________________ I post here cos the russian tank driver doesn't |
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There's no such thing really.
Too many variables to say, the only way if your really keen is to try both, with dyno runs, track runs ect... measuring intake air temps, and flow testing ect |
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| twr7cx |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Mate a good big front mount with smooth high flowing 3 inch piping will retain all your torque and let you run more advance timing & boost.
I do a kit that suits XR6T for a grand, should be able to adapt it to a EF, or I have DIY kits to suit e series, for less. Wtaer/air coolers are really good too, but you do have to fill up ect... You could make a dry ice style one for drags/ dyno queen runs. Alot of top drag teams use water/air as they can get the flow huge air and cool dam well. Air/air is the chosen cooler system for ease and practicallity I'm really not planning on increasing the boost beyond the 9psi. The Powerdyne would need to be rebuilt to handle the higher internal RPM, etc. I'm interested in your E-series kit - but mines blown, not turbo, the I doubt the pipe work would be much use. You mentioned 3" pipe. Would 2.5" be too small? As that .5" less would make the pipe so much easier to run. Cars not really intended for the drags/dyno, so dry ice etc. is of no interest. |
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| CHEF |
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My personal view on intercooler piping for a 4lt motor is 3inch only (for hot side, 2.5 is fine though), as its a big motor and you wont add lag with 3inch piping... its not an SR20det
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| tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
For the power you are making, 2.5inch piping will not cause a problem.
i'd go air to air with 2.5 inch piping. Just plan it out befor you cut anything so you can find the shortest path and use alloy bends if you are worried about weight. OR go with water/meth using a seperate bottle, not your washer bottle and deal with having to refill it. it realy worries you about filling it get a 10L bottle for it. Set up with the right amount of water going in to the engine and it should last a few weeks of driving to work |
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| -GAS-MAN- |
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I'm looking at doing the exact same thing, how hard is it to fit an intercooler? I'd much prefer water injection as it wont stand out like dogs balls and scream "Pick me, pick me!" to the police.
_________________ it can be fast and cheap,but it wont be reliable |
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| 4LEDboy |
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Get the intercooler then a water spay over it to make the air even colder
_________________ {DESCRIPTION} < Click on it! You know you want too! Quote: Thats not the point *a**hole
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| Steady ED |
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I'll let you know when I finally get mine up and running (no time frame
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I'll be running water injection because I don't want to cut up the sprint to fit an air to air core. Forget using a windscreen washer pump. You really need high pressure and good nozzle design to get a really fine mist to take the most temp out of the air. Also forget the boost switch if you want something that isn't going to guzzle water. I'm going to use a solenoid and pulse it like an injector off a 3d map with boost and intake temp axes. See how it goes, otherwise I'll just go water to air.
_________________ ED XR8 Sprint - S-Trim, V500, 249rwkw |
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| Slick |
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definitely water injector. either use a large water container with a mix of 50/50 methylated spirit & water. have you ever notice how nice & cool your finger is when you dip it in the spirit then let it air dry???
Not only it burns cleanly its also a octane booster.
_________________ Mind f**k!!! it works on feeble minded ignorant sheeples... there's plenty of em on this site... some are very intelligent but by god they are so thick!!! {USERNAME} wrote: You can buy them seppertly
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| opto |
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Been running water injection with straight for over a year now.
there will always be abit of hesitation, maybe less with alcohol and water. Use the finest jet possible and use a hobbs pressure or vacuum switch, depending on if you are forced or Normally aspirated. Set it to come on somewhere between 3500 rpm or above, whatever suits your need. Cooling with water alone is not as effective as I was hoping for.
_________________ I post here cos the russian tank driver doesn't |
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| Steady ED |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Been running water injection with straight for over a year now.
there will always be abit of hesitation, maybe less with alcohol and water. Use the finest jet possible and use a hobbs pressure or vacuum switch, depending on if you are forced or Normally aspirated. Set it to come on somewhere between 3500 rpm or above, whatever suits your need. Cooling with water alone is not as effective as I was hoping for. What sort of pump are you running though? How much pressure?
_________________ ED XR8 Sprint - S-Trim, V500, 249rwkw |
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| svo_matt |
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I've got a blown EB 5litre and none of this water cooling crap and it runs perfect
_________________ ..My fake plant died because I forgot to pretend to water it.. |
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