Ok, here is the situation.

Took off the intake pipe and dummied the core in possible locations. But its not as promising as it looks.

At first I tried it above the BBM, but as you can see on the side profile picture, it sticks up far too high.

Next was sitting it over the rocker cover, it looks like it may clear the bonnet, but with the bonnet closed, it didnt close properly.

Which left me 1 only other choice, I sat it on top of the heat shield and with some flexi pipe I had lying around, just formed it into position of how the pipe work should look.


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I think over the heat shield is the only position with this sized core.

The pipework will be 2.5" from the supercharger then a 2.5"-3" silicone reducer to the core, another 2.5"-3" silicone reducer to 2.5" pipe work to the TB.

I hope most with a Raptor V superchager realise that the outlet is 2.5" in diameter and they could effectively go the thinner 2.5" inlet/outlet Type 20 core which has a 4" body instead of the Type 19 core that I have which as a 5" body.

I think in heinz sight, the 4" body could fit above the rocker cover as a possibility, but that core is 2-3" longer.

I'll have to make up a rod/bracket of some kind to take the weight of the core itself once water goes thru it. It will get heavy, so, I'll have to get one bent to shape and connect it from the bolt that holds the header tank to one of the rocker cover bolts. That should hold the core into position.

Whats peoples thoughts so far?

Thanks Slick, I kinda realise that now. But being the guinea pig you only get one chance at getting it right at the time of ordering.

It will still work well with what I have though. Im just gonna run silicone reducers to fit.

See what clearance you have if you did this. move any obstruction away from the back of the rocket cover.



Mover the cooler over so it'll sit flat on the rocket cover and sa close to the back of the firewall.




it should look like this with half and half overhang. and you should gain another 5-10mm clearance... I hope.

Shav, looks good. I doubt the 4" core would have fitted behind the TB/BBM anyway. The core you have being shorter will be more suitable in its current position.

You're going 2.5" up to 3" from charger to core....but why are you dropping from 3" back down to 2.5" after the core? The TB is 3inch, so you should be able to run straight 3" between core and TB?

Will you fit the system yourself, or have a workshop (Bruce Heinrich) do it? The AU should be running great after this is done!

Joe

Another thing to remember is use a good non flammable building insulation between the cooler and what's resting on, or even wrap the whole setup. you'll want to minimise Conduction, convection and radiation heat transfer from boiling the cooler coolant.

thanks for your comments guys.

Slick - i can see what u mean by moving the leads. I ended up trying that after i took those shots and re-dummied the core. One thing you need to remember is the mounting lugs on the core are 'raised' so if i sit the core on the rocker cover it will sit 5-10mm to high any way. If i turn it so it avoids the lugs, the water inlet & outlet lines get obstructed. Its a tricky situation. The stick on heat shield i'll get for the underside of the core and the top of the shield on the extractors. Something from this list http://www.australianauto.com.au/HTML/0 ... ion_01.htm

Joe - Thanks for the pipe size suggestion. I see what you mean about 3" after the core, it makes sense. After all i dont need to strangle the air after it leaves the core. Will take this info and utilise. As for the fitting, yes Bruce will assemble it all together once the pipes have been fabricated. I'll get the pipes made up at an exhaust shop.

Cut the a section of rib from the back of the bonnet & shut it... or it's time for a bonnet bulge. could do either one and leave the rear open to vent out engine bay heat.

sticky situation requires extreme measures some times.

thats an option i have definitely considered. I didnt want to ruin a good bonnet but i know i can get another one cheap anytime. id rather the core sit on top of the rocker than over the heat shield.

hmm decisions....

Would it fit down under the BBM on the block?

You can gain another 1 1/2inch by doing this cut and shut idea. heaps of low pressure air there to help reduce heat since it's a such a small & short inline inter-cooler. plus you want instant boost by minimising to many sharp bends & piping, therefore reducing lag.

What about a small reverse cowl induction bonnet scoop? Or even an XR8 bonnet bulge. I'm sure either of those would help with clearance issues.

All very good options there, and yes Slick less bends are better I agree.

I might go past and see Bruce Heinrich for his opinion on these suggestions. I think he is happy to do what ever as long as Im happy with the outcome. Id rather cut a niche/notch out of the bonnet to help clear the core above the rocker cover than have to re-route more bends in the system.

Pulling the liner off the underside of the bonnet will help expose what needs to be done. All I really need about 1/2"-1" extra clearance in that area and it will fit.

Well I too have gone for a Frozenboost W2A set up. The main reason for this was the fact I really didn't want a rice looking front mount and I'm going for the sleeper look.

Here is the engine bay with the intercooler in place.








you can see I had to put a tee with a valve to bleed air from the line as the intercooler is slightly higher then the radiator.


I have mounted the radiator and pump in the boot, yes I know it doesn't get fresh air in there, but it is an experiment for the moment, and add's to the sleeper element.




so far so good, it is definetly pulling heat out of the front as the rad is heating up in the boot, trial and error will see how well it ends up working in the long run.



As you can tell from looking at the photo's. it aint pretty, lol, this is a budget build with all emphases on go not show, once I get some runs on the board then I will concentrate on making it look better.

Thanks for sharing yobbo. I like what you have done and it looks like an interesting method you have there. The heat exchanger in the boot seems a little different. Im not sure how well it will work there with no fresh air, but hey, if you happy and its proving results, then go for it.

Will be interested in seeing what results you have been able to achieve.

With the bleed valve, was that necessary to install it to avoid air locks?

the valve was a definite if the rad is lower then the intercooler, i tried just running the pump first to see if it would push the air through, but it wont, didnt take much to bleed the air out, I ran the pump for 30secs then let it settle and cracked the valve, after about 4 times doing this it was good as gold.