Their prices look good if you intend to rebuild. Considering 302w rollers are $660 I am guessing 351w rollers will be around the same or maybe a bit more.

I like the fact they have AOD's.

prices as of yesterday, 351w short- $450, 351 w roller $990. Am going the 2nd .

$660 is good, where from?

Whats so good bout AOD's, cos theyre not elec? dont know much bout them..

AODE's ,4R70W's are better.

If you think ur going to over 600hp then go non roller block as there stronger

AOD are a 3 speed with a overdrive gear and yes AODE are better and finally there is a guy in OZ that is a dealer of http://www.performanceautomatic.com/parts_c4.htm and his name is ADAM http://www.tassoneracing.com.au/

I was guessing judging from the price of their 302w rollers...hehe a little off.

As said the 4R70W's are better; I will be going an AODE with bauman controller next time I do a windsor in something. If you don't want to worry about wiring the 4R70W gear set fits into an AOD - that is just about the only thing interchangable however. They have better ratios and are stronger in stock form than BTR's. Being behind mustangs they have huge aftermarket support too.

first iv heard of roller blocks weaker than non roller? Can anyone confirm this?

The roller block is around 50 Lb lighter than flat tappet engine.. Metal is taken away from mains webbing, sump area..The different external ballance doesn't help!! Though the different timing does..

so your saying it's still worth paying twice for the roller? And that you make power easier with the roller cam? I'd rather the lighter one too- these things are heavy enough as it is. Plus you get less chance of a rear main leak- correct?

Can anyone tell me what all the differences are between the old and new 302w are and how to identify either. I'm building a DF LTD and have the option of either new or old engines. Just want to know what way is best to go.

Early flat tappet blocks have more meat around the mains and are therefore 25lb's heavier than the late blocks. Early blocks are 2-piece rear main seal equipped. Early engines have heavier cranks with more meat on the centre counterweights meaning they have the same 28oz imbalance as 351W's and C's. Early blocks have blind head bolt holes on the lower edge of the block.

Late blocks are 1-piece rear main. Late cranks are 50oz imbalance because of less meat in the centre of the crank. Late blocks lower head bolt holes go into water. Late blocks have doweled timing covers for better alignment. Late blocks have taller roller lifter bores.

So, to have the best early block you would machine the block for a one piece rear main. Having said that if you do a 2-piece lip seal right you won't have problems. Use a retro-roller cam by using a reduced base circle cam and use with the late model 5.0 lifters,dog bones and spider or use a std base circle cam and aftermarket link bar style roller lifters.
Counterbore a couple of the lower timing cover holes in the block for the alignment dowels from a 5.0. Or don't and use the crank seal to locate the cover centrally.

It comes down to how much power are you going to make as to what you do?
If you want to make 500ish hp I'd go straight to an aftermarket block in the first place.