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| TKFD |
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I am thinking of stroking the 5.0L in my AUXR8 to 347.
I can't decide whether to stroke existing block at a quoted price of $6,000 using Scat gear, or buy a Dart short block for I gather around the same money. I know there are issues in the strength of the std block, but are the Dart blocks a direct replacment for the AU motor? The pros and cons are: Dart - Pros - stronger, cost the same. Cons - may not be direct fit, Insurance/Rego issues with block number, what to do with original engine. Stroking - Pros - Possibly easier and local support, keep original engine (this may be a negative), Cons - Not as strong, possibility of splitting original block. I guess I could keep original engine, and when comes time to sell do a swap, and sell Dart motor by itself. mmmmmmmm any ideas? |
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| TKFD |
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...I guess it comes down to is the std block strong enough to warrant spending money on stroking?
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| xcabbi |
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If a 347 dart bottom end costs the same as stroking your stock block then I'd take the dart option every time. If you even think of going forced induction on top of your 347 stroker then your mind should already be made up.
Correct me if I'm wrong but they don't come with engine numbers. You have one of two options here. Tell your rego authority its an aftermarket replacement block (with everything else being stock) and they should give you a generic number to stamp yourself. Or stamp your original engine number on the dart block then you can either keep your factory engine as some form of backup, or strip it, grind the numbers off the block and bin it. |
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| TKFD |
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Thanks mate, didn't know you could re-stamp it. I'm leaning towards dart short block assy.
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| MICKYYYY |
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Only way u will get it at the same cost if u buy the Dart shot block from the USA as u wont be able to build it locally here for the same money.
U can tell the RTA that u blew ur engine and u got a replacement block as u couldnt use factory block, as dart has number's on it but there batch number's.
_________________ Wanted Either Capri/Cortina/XY/XW/XR/XT with tough V8 stroker engine, auto, 9inch, upgraded brakes etc[/SIZE][/size][/color] |
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| 409Stroker |
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wellfirst thing ide be thinking of is what mods are you going to be actually doing to the motor other than stroking it? how hard you going to be reving it and how are you going to be treating it, if its just a street car that you'll be giving the accassional hard time to and all your doing to it is stroking it than a standard block will handle it easy...but on the other hand if your uping your comp moding everything and flogging the guts out of it running nos or turbo and treating like a race car everytime you get in it then of course the dart will be a better option, but you have given no indercation of that ide keep the money your going to waist on byeing a block you dont realy need and put the cash towards a nice set of heads and cam
 ....my engine is alot different from yours, but i was worried about strength and getting a different block , but i saved my money and spent it in other places, brought a bottom end girdle, grout filled it to the welsh plugs and got a top notch machining job done and , believe me when i say i misstreat my car alot and run a 200 shot threw it and i am not worried about it comming apart at all 
_________________ If you have it under control then you dont have enough power..
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| Scaffy |
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I would recommend contacting some of the well known engine builders in the US and get a quote off them to build you a Dart SHP based short block to the specs you require. You can get a custom cam at the same time to get the most out of your combo. Those Dart shortblocks only have cast internals and are mass-produced, which I'm not a big fan of...
_________________ Trickflow Street Heat top end kit, 70mm BBK TB & EGR, 24lb injectors, Underdrives & 3.73s: 275rwhp - 13.15@105mph NA / 12.37@116mph N20 |
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| TKFD |
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I am thinking of buying the assy
http://www.dartheads.com/products/small ... orged.html or http://www.dartheads.com/products/small ... block.html do you think this would "drop in" to AU ? I have heads, and would just bolt up timing cover/water pump, balancer and accessories. Would engine mounts line up? |
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| BOTTLEDUP |
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What heads, cam, intake, t/b, injectors etc do you have or are you planning to run? These will determine how much power you'll make which in turn will dictate whether the standard block will suffice... There is no point buying the DART S
assembly to put under stock heads and intake... Personally I'd go for the most cubes you can with the DART block, why run 347 when the block will easily take a 4.125" bore, giving you 363 cubes? If you go the aftermarket block route I'd not compromise on the rotating assembly, get the 4340 forged crank & rods and forged pistons as well. The SHP block will bolt in exactly the same as a standard 5.0L block, the only thing you'll have to do is balance your flywheel/flexplate & harmonic balancer to suit the different counterweight setup of the non-standard rotating assembly. Something you'd have to do regardless of it being a DART block or a standard unit.
_________________ TE50 T1 P01 |
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| Scaffy |
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Check these guys out...
Dart SHP 347 with all forged internals - $4199 http://www.fordstrokers.com/dart-based- ... rt-blocks/ Stock 347 short block with Scat 9000 cast crank and 4340 I-beams - $2400 - about halfway down the page... http://www.fordstrokers.com/fordstroker ... rt-blocks/ Or you can contact them and speak to them about building whatever you want.
_________________ Trickflow Street Heat top end kit, 70mm BBK TB & EGR, 24lb injectors, Underdrives & 3.73s: 275rwhp - 13.15@105mph NA / 12.37@116mph N20 |
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| MICKYYYY |
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Problem with Fordstroker's is its a 6 month wait but if ur happy to wait u will get a good engine or go to CNC motorsports or Keith craft
_________________ Wanted Either Capri/Cortina/XY/XW/XR/XT with tough V8 stroker engine, auto, 9inch, upgraded brakes etc[/SIZE][/size][/color] |
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| TKFD |
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{USERNAME} wrote: What heads, cam, intake, t/b, injectors etc do you have or are you planning to run? These will determine how much power you'll make which in turn will dictate whether the standard block will suffice... There is no point buying the DART S assembly to put under stock heads and intake... Personally I'd go for the most cubes you can with the DART block, why run 347 when the block will easily take a 4.125" bore, giving you 363 cubes? If you go the aftermarket block route I'd not compromise on the rotating assembly, get the 4340 forged crank & rods and forged pistons as well. The SHP block will bolt in exactly the same as a standard 5.0L block, the only thing you'll have to do is balance your flywheel/flexplate & harmonic balancer to suit the different counterweight setup of the non-standard rotating assembly. Something you'd have to do regardless of it being a DART block or a standard unit. I am running std 70mm TB, 24lb injectors (may have to upgrade), Comp Cams XE270HR (224/218), and ported GT40X heads, and ported upper and lower explorer manifold. Exhaust is a diFillipo headers and 2.5 inch twin. Yea, thought about 363. |
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| Scaffy |
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I think you'd be right with a stock block 347 running those parts...
_________________ Trickflow Street Heat top end kit, 70mm BBK TB & EGR, 24lb injectors, Underdrives & 3.73s: 275rwhp - 13.15@105mph NA / 12.37@116mph N20 |
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| TKFD |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I think you'd be right with a stock block 347 running those parts... I agree, however I am thinking of supercharging later, and I can get these short blocks for the same cost to stroke my motor - $6,000. |
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| Scaffy |
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Sounds like you've got your heart set on these Dart short blocks. As I've said, and showed, there's better value out there. The Dart short block with forged internals will suit a blown applicTion, but piston choice would need to be considered. You'd need to be sure if you were definitely going to blow it or not. You might find yourself running low comp and not getting around to blowing it.
_________________ Trickflow Street Heat top end kit, 70mm BBK TB & EGR, 24lb injectors, Underdrives & 3.73s: 275rwhp - 13.15@105mph NA / 12.37@116mph N20 |
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