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| XR8U |
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my dads ef futura 6 beats my eb xr8 why is this is there something wrong with my car, is there a way to make it faster without spending overly much.
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| Disco Frank |
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pretty comon the xr6 was faster down the 1/4 then the xr8 untill the s2 auxr8 (200kw version )
get a good exhaust and intake mods etc have a search around the V8 workshop
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| MooseMan |
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I can understand a XR6 beating your car but a futura shouldnt. Does he have any mods or anything? If his is manual and yours is auto he may stand a chance early.
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| XR8U |
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his is an auto it only beats me till bout 90 to 100 then i get back in front, its only a bonnet lenghts in it but still i was hoping to cane him as my trusty eb fairmont didnt either
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| sam12h |
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Hitch equal sized caravans behind each car & then see who wins
 Seriously, the windsor in stock form is a truck motor, built for torque. Towing is its strong suit, not acceleration.
Heads, intake & exhaust are the restriction on a stock E series windsor. Everyone baulks when I say this, but the best value mods are old school. Port the intake & heads, and fit a set of extractors. Chips, MAFS, TB etc just aren't going to make a difference without an expensive intake & heads that provide very high airflow. Next best value is fitting the intake & heads off an AU (Explorer/GT40P), if you can get them cheap enough, & still fititng the extractors. Anything else (such as alloy heads) will require "spending overly much". Shorter final gearing will improve acceleration, but at the cost of economy. Converting to manual will improve both acceleration & economy. Looking at your other thread, how many revs are you using??? Peak power stock is at 4500rpm, & peak torque is 3000rpm. If the EB is completely stock, change into second at around 70kph. Any more revs than that & you are only slowing yourself down.
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| kezz |
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completly off topic sam but i was driving beside you in jeep wrangler a few weeks ago on the GWH, will have to line you up in my 6 soon lol
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| Ben_Daui |
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[quote="sam12h"]Hitch equal sized caravans behind each car & then see who wins
Seriously, the windsor in stock form is a truck motor, built for torque. Towing is its strong suit, not acceleration
I love that comment especially when I'm towing a boat & some d**k in his 4 banger tries to line me up at the lights & seeing the response on their face is PRICELESS 
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| 4.9 EF Futura |
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Hang on hang on... so, you get him around those speeds... so you'd get him down the quarter??
Where's the problem? But yeah... certainly no secret that the stock 5L is a bit of a slug.
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| tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
{USERNAME} wrote: Heads, intake & exhaust are the restriction on a stock E series windsor. Everyone baulks when I say this, but the best value mods are old school. Port the intake & heads, and fit a set of extractors. Chips, MAFS, TB etc just aren't going to make a difference without an expensive intake & heads that provide very high airflow. Next best value is fitting the intake & heads off an AU (Explorer/GT40P), if you can get them cheap enough, & still fititng the extractors. Anything else (such as alloy heads) will require "spending overly much". You say porting the stock heads is better value then fitting alloy heads. you do realise how much alloy heads cost? and how much you would have to spend to get the same flow as even a cheap set of alloy heads? Even then you are bolting heavy as hell iron heads back on. porting the stock heads mean removing them so you're up for the extra work/labour anyway. best value is save the extra few hundred dollars and buy some ally heads. choose well and they will bolt on with no other changes needed. |
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| sam12h |
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Are you for real???
I never said that porting will give the same result!! It will give a better improvement per $ spent though 
I also said port them, not have them ported. Note the difference! How does coughing up $2500 for heads, $1000 for an intake, $350 for an EGR spacer & TB fit the criteria of "without spending overly much"??? 
That's nearly $4000, & you haven't yet bought extractors, exhaust, cam, MAF, roller rockers etc... How the hell is that value for money??? The car would not cost that much to replace!
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| banarcus |
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I'm pulling the top of my 5.0L soon and I plan on doing the porting to the heads myself. I also see this as the cheapest way of extracing grunt without spending heaps of money. Did the same thing to my 2L esky years ago and it made a very noticable difference. Couldn't expect to do it cheap if I wasn't doing it all myself.
Really, if you cannot read a workshop manual, use a 1/2" drive socket set or a spanner or even cant stand dirty hands, then you're in for a lot of money. If you can, then there is absolutely no dramas from doing this stuff yourself and seeing the rewards for doing it. |
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| MARK.TANIA |
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i agree with you banarcus have a read on how to do it and get a die grinder and do it your self
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| raiki |
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www.diyporting.com
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| XR8U |
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thanks for the tips guys will definately have to get the heads worked on. i like the steel heads as they are harder to crack. (so i have been told)
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| skatman347 |
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definitly i would work on gettin the engine "breathing" better,
however if ya considerin portin ya heads, might be quicker and easier to try to find some 2nd hand GT40-GT40P heads for sale, hard i know but they are loads better than the E7. Then all ya do is get them fully serviced and o-hauled then slap them on ya beast and have some fun... If ya do manage to find ya self some heads dont forget that ur original manifold wont fit the heads, you will need the GT40 lower plenum and upper to suit, all which will give ya some more needed grunt. Otherwise things like blockin of your EGR help dependin on what fuel u run ya beast on, addin a couple of degrese to the total timmin of ya engine can make noticable diffrences, just not to much thats all dependin the age nd k/m of the car get ya injectors removed and o-hauled, you will prob find they will be 50-60% blocked, mine were 75% and me cars only done 180k....
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