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600holley or 750 for a 351c 

 

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 Post subject: 600holley or 750 for a 351c
Posted: Sat May 06, 2006 8:45 pm 
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Gday.

Ive got a 351clevo with extractors into 2.5 twins, pretty much standard heads and cam and a Edelbrock proformer intake manifold. Ive got a Holley 600 vac sec and a Holley 750 double pumper sitting here, both freshly rebuilt, just wondering what I should run.

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Posted: Sat May 06, 2006 9:29 pm 
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IMO if you arent gonna race it, the 600 should be ok

 

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Posted: Sat May 06, 2006 10:18 pm 
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So put the 600 on for now until I get the heads and cam done, then the 750 will be best?

 

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Posted: Sat May 06, 2006 10:24 pm 
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pretty much, yea

a 650 vac sec is IMO pretty much ideal for a tame 351, but you need to bump it up 100cfm+ when you start doing stuff to the internals

 

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Posted: Sat May 06, 2006 10:37 pm 
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Ok then, would there be any difference in leaving the 750 on the manifold (Its currently mounted on the manifold which I will be putting on the motor on wednesday) and swapping over the jets from the 600 (600 is currently on the stock manifold on the motor)? Would this perform the same as the 600 or would you reccomend saving the stuffing around and just putting the 600 on the performer manifold instead....hope that makes sence.

 

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76XBGS, 383c, custom crow cam, 4V p&p heads, Isky SS Valve+springs, extractors, 2.5"twins, MSD Ignition, Edelbrock intake, Forged bottom end, Barry Grant 750DP, thermo, discs, toploader, Holley fuel pump, SUPERCHARGED!

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Posted: Sun May 07, 2006 12:37 am 
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A 750 is way too big unless you do some serious work, even if you do heads and cam you will find the 600 to be sufficient.

I have seen so many guys over carb engines it's not funny.
I had a worked 351 C in my XD and had a 750 vac on it, to me it was too big for the work i had, a 650 would have been better... but square bore has always been the go with Holley, most spread bore (especially the 650 DP) were always known as trouble... going from personal experience here.

I see Intersexual is still doing Street Machine LOL.
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Posted: Sun May 07, 2006 8:54 pm 
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Fair enough. Iv decided I'll put the 600 on and get it tuned again. Looks like I'll have an expensive paperweight for a while.

When I get the heads and cam I'll put the 750 on, get it jetted and tuned then go down for a few runs on the dyno and see how she goes compared to the 600.

 

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76XBGS, 383c, custom crow cam, 4V p&p heads, Isky SS Valve+springs, extractors, 2.5"twins, MSD Ignition, Edelbrock intake, Forged bottom end, Barry Grant 750DP, thermo, discs, toploader, Holley fuel pump, SUPERCHARGED!

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Posted: Sun May 07, 2006 9:38 pm 
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id stick with the 600 for sure , id stay with it until you are going for at least 375hp
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Posted: Mon May 08, 2006 12:55 am 
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I got an 850 Barry Grant Carby sittin in my garage... Fits a 351.

 

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Posted: Mon May 08, 2006 6:28 pm 
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what sort , condition etc
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Posted: Mon May 08, 2006 7:24 pm 
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Yup, another vote for the 600, Ive got a 770 and that suits my motor just fine, but for a stocker 600 will do.

 

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Posted: Mon May 08, 2006 8:49 pm 
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I picked the performer intake and 750 today. It turns out its a vac sec not a double pumper, which is good because Id rather that. It looks so damn nice, all clean with its little fuel pressure gauge. Im thinking as it is already mounted on the intake, I'll put it on as is and then swap the jets over to suit the motor as it is now and then I can just swap the jets back when I do the heads and cam if it needs it.

Just a little question though. On the vacuum side of the carb there is an arm to open the secondarys, it looks as though there is supposed to be a spring going from the arm and attaching to a small swinging link fixed to the vacuum diaphram housing. Does this sound right, because there is no spring there now and the secondarys dont want to close unless you lock them open then give them a tap, when which, they snap shut. See pic.

Also are there supposed to be plugs in the fuel ports on the side of the carb not being used, or are these sealed by the large screws in the centre of the carb at each end?

 

 

Attachments:
File comment: Should there be a spring?
100_1526zzALs.JPG
100_1526zzALs.JPG [ 100.63 KiB | Viewed 240 times ]

 

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Posted: Tue May 09, 2006 10:30 pm 
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Sorry dont worry about me, just hit a bit of a learning curve. Theres not supposed to be a spring, its a cable guide for a manual choke. :oops:

 

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76XBGS, 383c, custom crow cam, 4V p&p heads, Isky SS Valve+springs, extractors, 2.5"twins, MSD Ignition, Edelbrock intake, Forged bottom end, Barry Grant 750DP, thermo, discs, toploader, Holley fuel pump, SUPERCHARGED!

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Posted: Tue May 09, 2006 11:07 pm 
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If you don't plan on using the choke mate, put a rod or something between the clamp and lever to stop the choke closing.
Better still, do what i did to mine and cut the whole choke shroud off.
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Posted: Wed May 10, 2006 9:11 am 
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I went around to my mechanic last nite and he said the same thing. I'll get it on there and see if it needs a choke. I dont mind either way, my other car has a manual choke, Im used to it now.

I think my mechanic is more pumped than I am about gettin this all on the engine and running right.

 

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76XBGS, 383c, custom crow cam, 4V p&p heads, Isky SS Valve+springs, extractors, 2.5"twins, MSD Ignition, Edelbrock intake, Forged bottom end, Barry Grant 750DP, thermo, discs, toploader, Holley fuel pump, SUPERCHARGED!

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