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xhon20s |
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lol resisters are like 2 cents hahaha and my old man has s**t of em. hey btw what mods have you done to your car
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XH5LWEPN |
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{USERNAME} wrote: nar its not a dodgy resister thing it plugs into the back of the ecu
Ah, it must be the new "Premium" version
_________________ STREETBUILT RACING |
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xhon20s |
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yer it got a diode aswell
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XR9UTE |
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Hypertech don't make anything to suit aussie EEC's so that's likely the problem. Of course I don't which EEC you're using?
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EL2XR8 |
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I've got my auto tps set to 0.98 and the other to 0.97.
What would happen if they were set back to say 0.8 or 0.9? Just get a lag? no real benifit is there? Reason I ask is that I still occasionally get a violent couple of surges which lead to a stall when turning the engine on? {USERNAME} wrote: Just to add to that...
The reason the idle voltage needs to be under 1v is because if you're over 1v the EEC thinks it's in part throttle mode. This is the number one cause of rolling idle and stalling after people have modified their engine because they crack the blade open further to gain a higher idle but don't realise they must elongate TPS holes to enable the correct setting. This causes the EEC to see part throttle mode when it's actually idling so the ISC control becomes erratic. The three modes are; idle mode = less than 1v Part throttle mode = 1v to 3.7v (WOT breakpoint is 2.7v which you add your idle voltage to) WOT mode = anything over 3.7v Bringing your TPS voltage to 0.98v is just a way getting as close to 1 volt without going over therefore reducing the delay in time from idle mode to part throttle mode. The performance is greater. TPS does not in itself control fuel it is only a means for the EEC to look at certain maps that apply to that mode. In idle and part throttle modes the EEC will look at closed loop maps for fuel and spark. If load exceeds 70% or you hit the WOT TPS breakpoint the EEC looks at WOT maps and ignores the HEGO's ie; open loop control. Pete.
_________________ EL II XR8
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XR9UTE |
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Have a look at your engine TPS volts when you start. You may be experiencing a surge over 1v momentarily on startup?
You'll probably not notice if you drop your TPS back to .97 for the engine but dropping it back to .8 will likely be noticeable. |
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jaysway |
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on a v8 auto the engine tps is the one on the top and the auto tps is the one on the bottom, correct?
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benj78 |
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Followed the above.. well the base idle bit so far, haven't got around to TPS yet due to lack of multimeters.. But it fixed all my woes!!
Idle was sitting around 600rpm. Up-ed it to around 900rpm. No more hunting at idle. No more stalling when coming to a stop. Thanks to all for this sticky!! |
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benj78 |
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I have a few questions on setting the TPS on EF XR8.
I've done the base idle, set it to somewhere between 850-900 when warm. Pierced the green wire and black wire, hooked the probes up, but the reading was 5v. This was with ignition at II. When the ignition was at I, the reading was around 0.57. Would this just be a grounding issue, or something mechanical? Regardless, on the engine TPS, the screw holes don't appear to be elongated at all. I loosen the screws, but it only moves 1-2mm at most. Is this normal? Also, where's the other TPS module for a manual? Thanks! |
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XR9UTE |
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Manuals only have one TPS.
You have to elongate the holes yourself. |
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gtho93 |
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is this the same on a 93 5lt
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TerroristGHIA |
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Yes.
Exactly the same from EB to EL Brett
_________________ The Terrorist ED Retired due to RUST. |
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gtho93 |
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thanks brett ,ive got a reading of 0.2o havnt tried to slot holes yet ,throtle bodie has been adjusted wound this cause a low reading
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XFWAGON |
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So hang on a minute, if i'm reading correct, currently i have two TPS's on my T/B, i have changed to manual, can i get rid of the bottom TPS? Or will it not matter? Also, how do i go about timing the engine itself, i have taken the dizzy etc out and need to re time the motor. I know about taking the #1 plug out and cranking til the piston reaches the top. But i need to know how to time it using a timing gun etc. Cheers
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XR9UTE |
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Yes.
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