Would like to know how to do align top dead centre. My camshaft is set to far advanced and is not making the power it should. Do i need a dial guage to set it to 0 degrees? also when taking off the timing cover to access the camshaft, does part of the sump gasket (front) need to be cut? And if i change my cam timing do i need to take note of positioning of ignition timing? cant justify $500 in labour to do this to get it done by someone else.

Any info would be much appreciated. thanks

What cam are you using and do you have the specs for it? Also, do you have a vernier cam wheel? Simply saying, set your crank to TDC and then set your dial indicator on the intake pushrod on cyl #1. The amount of lift should very closely resemble that of the inlet lift of the cam at TDC on your cam specs.

If you damage your sump gasket, get another and cut the damaged part out and put in the new bit. A bit of silicone in the corner works well here.

With your cam dialled in, just put your dizzy in the hole and align the notches. Move your dizzy to suit. Very very easy job mate but it can take a while especially if your damn water pump bolts are frozen on and snap off when you undo them.

Just to add to that, you will have an Intake Center Line figure on your cam card, this is where you will find your peak lift point, and it will be somewhere from 105-110deg ATDC. To effectively work this out you need a cam degree wheel, and a bit of wire to work as a pointer. Unless you have a multi key way, or vernier gear (which Ive not seen for a 5ltr on anything except for the Danny Bee belt drive) cam gear, dont touch anything.

its a crow cam, specs are:

lsa: 112
inlet duration: 216
exhaust duration: 216
exhaust and inlet lift : 0.505

cam has 1 degree of timing and has been advanced 4 degree's. Making it 5 degrees advanced. Thats assuming if its been set properlly. Have rollmaster timing chain as well. Car is making shy off 160rwk with camshaft not making any power however there is low vacuum, lopey idel etc so its is most definitly a bigger camshaft prodfile in the engine.

tuning place i took to, reckons its loosing at least 20rwk being set 4 degrees advanced from 3300rpm onwards. Torque is low as well, and there is stuff all gain downlow by advancing the camshaft. Its just not making any power. Car is running full exhaust, cappa chip, explorer manifold and gt40p heads with matched valve springs.

just started pulling it apart now and hopefully get all the gear tommorow to dial it in at 0 degrees.

thanks for all your help, where exactley can i get a vernier cam wheel?

My cam is an E303, 220/220 @ 0.050, 110LSA with ICL @ 110deg, ie straight up. Ive got 14"Hg @ idle, so with your duration and LSA, you would have to have a higher reading than that, or you have the cam retarded, not advanced. My idle is lopey, but not major by any means.

If you advance the cam timing you will get a lowdown gain, that is why you do it.And vice versa.

Are you sure its the cam. There is no restriction elsewhere. Check exhaust/cats. Mine was fond to be limited by the small primaries on my cheap a** lukey extractors. Didnt matter how much NOS i put into it, i couldnt get more than 220rwkw. And on NA i am peaking at 187rwkw. This with sportsman heads, 2.08 intake and 1.6 exhaust, 1.72 Roller rockers, RPMII manifold, matchported 70mm TB, aftermarket EFI, 30lb injectors and a comp cams 282XE cam
Brett
Brett

The tune also makes a difference, Ive been playing with my EEC and it now starts, idles and is carpark tuned very nicely (Thanks to Trickflow EL) I did have idle probs when one of my vac lines under the manifold came adjar, MAF doesnt read properly and screws with your idle.

I have used the piston stop method to get exact top dead centre. I had a mate weld 3/4 of an inch long piece of steel onto a sparkplug and screw in and with the timing cover off and and degree wheel in place with wire or pointer ready, GENTLY turn the crank one way till it stops and note the degrees on the wheel, then turn the other way till it stops and note degrees again. Then get the middle figure to use as top dead centre and reset the wire/pointer. This will get the exact starting point without having to remove the heads.

Just dont be rough when turning the crank or you can bend/do damage when the piton stop hits the piston.