Hi all from NZ.

I'm looking at buying a fairly hot ED XR8 manual to replace my Fairmont.

The XR8 is a little rough but that's reflected in the price. What I want to do is avoid buying a shedful of big problems that empty my bank account. So anyone got some expert knowledge on this model? Here's a few of the bigger issues I need to address.

I checked the car out quickly today and had a test drive. Wet day here today so didn't crawl underneath and didn't push it on the wet road. These are first impressions.

Clutch take-up is right at the top of the pedal travel. Is this more likely a worn-out clutch, or could it be in pedal adjustment? The car is also "notchy" on the gear shifts. Def some clutch attention needed - are replacement parts expensive? Do the clutch pedal mounts fail often on this model?

Battery went flat (owner has been overseas for 12mths and car has had little use) and after new battery was installed, central locking doesn't work with the key. It locks/unlocks with the remote sender, but the mechanical key does nothing. Small problem (e.g. fuse?) or big problem (e.g. big bill from an auto electrician?).

Apparently car won't start sometimes (like it's immobilised), you need to wiggle the handbrake (?!?!) and then it starts. WTF is up with that?

Diff whine. Diff has a slight whine when under power, which goes quiet when you lift off. There is a replacement crown wheel and pinion there which look okay. Is the CW+P swap-out a job for a diff specialist, or could I tackle that one myself?

Final drive ratio. When the speedo says 120kmh, I'm sure the car is doing under 100kmh - I was getting passed by large trucks and tiny Toyotas on the motorway when my speedo said 100kmh. Pretty sure this car has been an auto XR8, which has had a GT40/manual conversion (e.g. the interior centre consol is chopped and butchered - that's a pretty strong indicator). So I wonder if the final drive ratio is all wrong for the manual set-up?

Has a phenomenal motor in it. GT40 intake and throttle body, what look like stainless headers, and apparently GT40 heads (how can I identify the heads?). I suspect there is a lightweight flywheel in there, the thing responds to the throttle like a race engine. It might have roller rockers and Sprint-type gear in there too - someone in the past has dropped some serious coin on the engine. Very revvy, very fast car.

Appreciate any input on this from people who know about these things.

Cheers

List price $6k (these things change hands for a lot more here than they do in Oz).

Engine k's unknown.

Odometere around 200,000km I think.

A standard old sedan, SFA. You could get one for a grand, give or take.

A Manual XR8 - $6k-$10k (top end ones with high-perf motors - have seen them in mid-teens $$$). Prices are dependent on all the usual criteria.

Not too worried about that. I have a company car to use a lot of the time. (SS Commodore ute, urrggh). I've been running modified musclecars on the road for 25 years so I know what I like, and I know what to expect at the fuel pump!

Pretty much what I'm thinking. That's why I want to try and learn how much I might need to spend, so I can have an informed conversation with the guy about what it all adds up to. And yes, it'll be a bit of a project (which gets driven a lot in the meantime!).



That's what I was hoping - thanks for the link - I knew there was something about coloured drive gears. Awesome, thanks again.



I quite like the buying part. It's the selling that gets on my wick. Here's my car: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =493969494
I listed this weekend and I've had idiots all over me already. One guy wants to buy "just the rims". Like, a rim-less car, THAT'S gonna help me sell it, right?!

Issue with the clutch could be just a worn out clutch, it could be a worn out cable, damaged firewall or peddle box as well. Either way it's going to mean money. Could even be a worn pivot for the clutch fork or a bent clutch fork. Closely inspect the firewall where the cable goes thru & the peddle box around the pivot pin.

Console shouldn't have been hacked to fit the gearstick.

In regards to the heads, you can see a marking GTP on them near the head bolt at the back on the passenger side, that's GT40p heads. Spark plug angle is also different to stock heads. Car's with Gt40p's and extractors sound different to stock setups.

Diff whine might just be from wear & tear, or lack of service. If you get it, give the diff an oil change & see how it goes. Unless you have lots of special tools a cw & p swap is for a diff joint to be doing.

Cheers

ToranaGuy

The speedo could be out due to the transmision swap. AFAIK the t5 is a slightly shorter top gear ratio than the 4 speed, meaning an indicated speed is slower than it actualy is. Check the diff ratio as well, it might have a 3.45:1 from an xr6 slung under it, a very very common performance upgrade on eb-ed xr8's, since they came with a factory 3.27:1, which would also put the speed registered out by even more. It may also explain some diff whine, though a worn 3.27 would do the same.

My au has a 3.89 diff in it, whines like a brit, and is exactly 20% out on the speedo, so I have to do 120 indicated to sit on 100kmh. Takes a GPS with you if you test it again, and see what your actual speed is. I used mine to test the maths and it was spot on, backed by the speed detector on the Princes Freeway from geelong to melbourne, as well as lack of speeding tickets.

Want an old heads opinion. Ya probably wont like it. Avoid the thing like the plague. Keep ur eyes and ears open and another will pop up for sure. We all like to tinker, thats why we like this forum. But ive had em all. Sadly done it all. For just a few extra $$$$ you will get that right one Colour/trim. And that wil pay again when u sell it. U might event get a sprint. Patience my son... The young mans weakness. Try it.. you will love the result.

I'm 45 years old. Over the last thirty years I've had a few Ford musclecars, raced a few, and owned a couple of Porsche Turbo's along the way as well.

I'm pretty comfortable with my wisdom and patience.

But hey thanks for the advice anyway.

Yeah I always thought that was odd. Looks better on alloys and lowered with those XR6 stripes - I thought it looked a bit naff when I bought it bog standard.

I wonder if the original purchaser was able to specify that as an option? I've never seen another one like it in NZ.

Is it on Trademe?

6k seems a little high for what it sounds like, but then again the manual XR8's are getting hard to find.

One of my mates picked up a '92 XR8 manual last year for $6.5k, 225000k on the clock. Stock. But we thought that was a good deal.

Keep in mind the speedo's stuff up around 15 year old or so..
Look at general condition !! The milage doesn't really matter..

Yes it was on TM. Turns out, a mechanic who does the odd bit of work on my Fairmont knew the car well. It's a total dog.

Diff is completely rooted and is bog standard 6-cyl "open" diff. Quite useless in a hi-perf manual V8.

Gearbox needs a complete rebuild.

Needs all new clutch system.

Has been re-bodied (!!!) and is not even genuine XR8.

Engine set up is mickey mouse, computer is dodgy, etc etc.

Electrics not working.

And so on. I steered clear. Only worth "parts value" in my opinion. I don't think it's for sale any more.