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| EBXR8380 |
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A set of AFR 185's ,2031 cam, RPM inelt, 65 throttle body, 76mm maf and 30 Lb injectors..
Will make over 200 rwkw with 9 to 1 compression.... The pistons will require notching and can be done in block...The AFR 165 heads maybe better [smaller inlet valve ]and ported AU inlet to help low end torque...But I'd machine heads to optain 10 to 1 comp.. With alloy heads and good chamber design with plenty of swirl this compression isn't high.... Depending on tune / timing it could still run 91ULP.... Have you thought of bolting in a 351 in there??? Torque is king in your case....
_________________ As in ZOOM 126 edition |
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| TKFDXR8 |
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instead of Y's why not go GT40X's. AFR's are the better head out of the box, but also twice as much$$. the GT40X's can be ported to flow just as much as AFR's.
just remember that flow rate is not everything. bowl design comes into it, and head has to match rest of engine. be a waste to have AFR and not decent intake/exhaust, or a cam to compliment. if on a budget...i feel ported GT40p's are sufficient with a ported explorer intake, and a nice cam (218/220). good for about 250-260 flywheel kw with edit, but if $$ permit, go alloys. RR's are a given. do a search of the ford head flow comparison that's on the forum.
_________________ i wish to be a ring on a maidens hand so when she wipe herself i see the promised land. |
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| TKFDXR8 |
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the head comparison:
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/Detailed/630.shtml
_________________ i wish to be a ring on a maidens hand so when she wipe herself i see the promised land. |
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| changinghia |
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{USERNAME} wrote:
That is bloody useful, Thanks mate. So the X's are a good match with the standard explorer manifold port-wise or will I have to do extensive machining to get uninterupted flow? Also, TKFD, are these the X's you are referring too? {DESCRIPTION} If so the 64cc chamber units would be the better choice for a lumpier cam am i right? What hyd. roller camshaft and roller rockers would mate up nicely with those? I've budgeted for Yella Terra rollers, but what cam would get the best out of those heads. The X's will fit the budget nicely by the way. Thanks for the heads up. Also will I need hardened push rods for this set up or will the stockies suffice? |
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| TKFDXR8 |
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that's them.
i am actually buiding up a combo at the moment which includes GT40X heads, mildly ported. should flow about 250cfm. you could still get away with not porting, but it's recommended even for a clean-up S1 job. also getting upper/lower intake explorer ported & matched. cam is the comp cams XE270HR (35-351-8). good all round sensible street cam. i'm keeping std YT RR's (1.72). the 58cc will have more compression (i'm going with these), and is actually bowl size, not deck height, that raises comp. shouldn't really affect cam selection to my knowledge. more to do with correct fuel (PULP). stock pusrods should do fine, just remember lifter pre-load if going non-adj RR's, as valve geometry may change, depending on what RR's u go for. so may need to change rods. i would recommend YT or crane adjustables 1.7's.
_________________ i wish to be a ring on a maidens hand so when she wipe herself i see the promised land. |
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| TKFDXR8 |
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also, advisable to upgarde springs to dble. i am using Comp cams 986-16??
_________________ i wish to be a ring on a maidens hand so when she wipe herself i see the promised land. |
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| changinghia |
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So forgive my ignorance here, but are you saying that my Au series I Fairlane has Yella Terra 1.72 RR's as standard?
If so, buggered if im changing them.. 
The 58cc chambers sound like they will help with improving torque. On a side note I just rang an eastern states head guru and he tells me alloys lose power unless you get them ceramic coated like the supercars and that the GT40P's are a superior head over the GT alloys because of heat retention. He remarked that porting of the exhaust is most critical, but that on the whole a ported GT40P will be superior to an alloy GT variant. WTF ??? |
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| fairy v8 |
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na your fairlane has non roller 1.6 pressed steel rockers they need to be replaced mate 1.6 or 1.7 to match cam lift you want.....IMO if your gonna replace your gt40ps i would get the AFRS otherwise do up your gt40ps have a go at portin them yourself heaps of info on here for them
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| BOTTLEDUP |
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{USERNAME} wrote: So forgive my ignorance here, but are you saying that my Au series I Fairlane has Yella Terra 1.72 RR's as standard?
If so, buggered if im changing them.. The 58cc chambers sound like they will help with improving torque. On a side note I just rang an eastern states head guru and he tells me alloys lose power unless you get them ceramic coated like the supercars and that the GT40P's are a superior head over the GT alloys because of heat retention. He remarked that porting of the exhaust is most critical, but that on the whole a ported GT40P will be superior to an alloy GT variant. WTF ??? Who would this guru be?
_________________ TE50 T1 P01 |
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| changinghia |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Who would this guru be? hehe. That would be telling. Actually had 2 people tell me not to bother with alloy heads and to modify my GT40P's. They were good for 220kw on the XR8 series III with a pretty mild cam and piss-poor tune so I suppose they had some validity to their argument. The only problem is those GT40X's look bloody nice and after USD$ conversion and shipping could probably have them on my doorstep for around $2k with brand spanking valve-train already on-board. So either way I'm looking at $2k for the head work unless I port the GT40P's myself. Any threads on porting the GT40P's and modifying the combustion chambers and setting them up? What tools will I need? Also does anyone know where I could find specs on the Fairlane on the net? Like combustion chamber cc, compression ratio, inlet, exhaust specs and the rest. |
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| TKFDXR8 |
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there really is nothing wrong with the P's, in fact they are quite a good head, and respond well to porting.
heat retention?? why would you want to retain heat in a cyl head? on the contrary u want to rid heat out of the head (runners) to have a cooler intake air charge - cooler air = denser air = more better burn = more power. that's why most modern engines are alloy. yes alloy blocks sound tinnier, ie Gen 1&2. also alloys are half the weight, which improves front end suspension geometry. but if $$ are the limiting factor keep the P's and port. remember you can sell the P's to recover some cost of going alloys. low mileage P's go for about $600-$800 a pair.
_________________ i wish to be a ring on a maidens hand so when she wipe herself i see the promised land. |
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| changinghia |
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Alright, the research I have done on the GT40P's has led me to the conclusion they are pretty worthwhile keeping in the medium term before the final stroke. To replace them cost-wise is equivalent to modifying them so I'm thinking I will leave them pretty much as is unless someone knows a way to improve the flow in them (particularly the exhaust department) without removing them from the vehicle.
So as it stands Stage 1 of Fairlane Upgrade is looking like this : 1. Dyno Before 2. Hyd Roller camshaft 3. Roller Rockers - Yella Terras (Springkit if required) 4. Dyno Middle 5. Pacemakers and 3" single exhaust cat back (fuel lines inhibit twin system option) 6. Cold Air intake 7. Flashtune and Dyno After Will be putting the AFR and Dart Heads under the research microscope before undertaking Stage II. They look the best option up top when she eventually gets the stroke. Awaiting email from CrowCams regarding ideal cam and rocker setup for Stage I. Could be interesting. |
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| TKFDXR8 |
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why all the dyno's...$$$
just get the edit/dyno tune at the end of the S1 project. unless you want a before-after, you will f-e-e-l the improvements 
another reason i went for the GT40x's is that it is keeping with the tickford/fordGT40 theme of my car (AU2XR8). these motors come out std with GT40Y on T2. slapping on a set of AFR's i think would reduce resale value. remember you may have to notch pistons for AFR, especially the 185's
_________________ i wish to be a ring on a maidens hand so when she wipe herself i see the promised land. |
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| fairy v8 |
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agree just dyno at the end when you do the edit , depending on what cam you go....your better off with double springs which means pullin the heads to have machined and if your gonna do that get the die grinder out and go porting!!! have a look at www.stangpro.com info about gt40ps and wwwdiyporting.com as for your cam im not baggin crow but a lot of there cams are slow ramping up compared to comp or crane ....and you already have a hydraulic roller , just a stock grind.....do some research and figure out what sort of cam will suit what you want to achieve coz its gonna be a compromise if your gonna stroke it later
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| changinghia |
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What was the cam on the AU III XR8 ?
What roller rockers (ratio/brand) did the AU III XR8 use? Would these items fit into my series I AU Fairlane? |
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