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B+M shifters 

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 1:15 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
{USERNAME} wrote:
{USERNAME} wrote:
Yuo must have literally abused the damn thing pretty hard for the knob to come off.


Nope it came off from new. It's because the knob is made of cheap plastic with a threaded metal insert. Of course the metal insert rips straight out when you lift the knob to get it into gear. B&M = cheap nastiness.

Pete.


What shifter did or do you have? Can't say I've had that problem with my quicksilver shifter. If it's not shifting smoothly you've done something wrong. Maybe the cable hole in the floor isn't big enough or the cable is twisted around on a wierd angle.

A mate of mines had a Megashifter and it was difficult to shift. Snapped a few cables and ripped the shift knob off it. The hole he had in the floor was too small. It sort of kinked the cable. He also had the cable routed wrongly. It's supposed to run in a looped fashion. Once we did that it was smooth as silk.

He got me to have a look at his after driving my XB with the quicksilver. My quicksilver also shifts as smooth as silk. I've even modded mine fron 3/4spd to a 2spd shifter.

To give you some idea on the description on smooth as silk? My 4yo son can shift it effortlessly.


What shifter did I have? might have to do a search. :wink:
Seriously though, I had no problems with it shifting. I do know how to install these things properly. My point is that they are low quality even when they work.

Pete.
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Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 4:01 pm 
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hehe. Smart**** :P Yeah some bits are cheap. Especially when it comes to the Megashifters. I hate Megashifters.

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 4:02 pm 
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With the quicksilver you still need to pull it up with a fair amount of effort to get it into and out of park or reverse so I can see how the knob would become detached. But its a shifter designed for racing and if it shouldn't be built so flimsy.

I really do like the look of the quicksilver shifter but I have a few issues with it. First. They sell that many of them in Aus it would make sense to have a base with the shifter window on the right hand side like the magashifter. Then the issue with the knob. If the knob ever does come off then your f**k because the shifter stalk gets pretty f**k hot. I almost burnt myself on my mates quicksilver shifter stalk it was that hot.
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Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 5:12 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
With the quicksilver you still need to pull it up with a fair amount of effort to get it into and out of park or reverse so I can see how the knob would become detached. But its a shifter designed for racing and if it shouldn't be built so flimsy.

I really do like the look of the quicksilver shifter but I have a few issues with it. First. They sell that many of them in Aus it would make sense to have a base with the shifter window on the right hand side like the magashifter. Then the issue with the knob. If the knob ever does come off then your f**k because the shifter stalk gets pretty f**k hot. I almost burnt myself on my mates quicksilver shifter stalk it was that hot.


I don't understand why your mates is getting so hot? Is his trans cooking? My B&M used to feel like that when I cooked the trans. My shifter gets nothing above luke warm. Even after 4 hours or more of driving. I did around 6 hours of cruising last Sat in my car. I have to keep my hand on the shifter as I have a manual valvebody.

They used to sell a RHD Quicksilver but they removed it from the market for some reason? doh! They stopped making the RHD ones 2 or so years ago.

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 6:25 pm 
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Well my mate does have a 6000rpm stall conveter behind his RB30T so that would make a difference. The knob itself doesn't get warm but the lever burns.
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Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 7:06 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
Well my mate does have a 6000rpm stall conveter behind his RB30T so that would make a difference. The knob itself doesn't get warm but the lever burns.


Yup, shouldn't make a difference unless the convertors real loose (loose = heat and lots of it). Mine somewhere between 5500-5800rpm as well. Mines pretty tight for street use. I get to my stall rpm via a transbrake.

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 7:14 pm 
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i have just purchased a pro ratchet for my C4 is there any gremlins with them do you no Brenx....

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 7:38 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
{USERNAME} wrote:
Well my mate does have a 6000rpm stall conveter behind his RB30T so that would make a difference. The knob itself doesn't get warm but the lever burns.


Yup, shouldn't make a difference unless the convertors real loose (loose = heat and lots of it). Mine somewhere between 5500-5800rpm as well. Mines pretty tight for street use. I get to my stall rpm via a transbrake.


On the tranbrake it gets to 6000rpm but with no tansbrake, just leaving the line gently (as in not trying to turn the tires) results in the rpm jumping straight up to 3000-4000rpm. That's a pretty loose converter imo. And regardless of what speed he coasts along at his tacho is glued to 3000rpm.
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Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 7:38 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
i have just purchased a pro ratchet for my C4 is there any gremlins with them do you no Brenx....


No idea. I've never had one. I know a few people with them and they have no compaints.

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 7:43 pm 
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Are pro ratchet's the one with the little safety lockout valve that you have to flick forward with your fingers as you engage reverse or park? Sounds like a pain in the but if you don't have long fingers.
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Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 7:54 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
Are pro ratchet's the one with the little safety lockout valve that you have to flick forward with your fingers as you engage reverse or park? Sounds like a pain in the but if you don't have long fingers.


Pretty sure they are.

 

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