Can anyone help
The Cooling system on the Boss engine is a disaster. Even worse than the GenIII. The pump cavitates badly, @ 5k on the Dyno the top tank is making a milk shake and those brown stains on the header tank that were first thought to be rust stains are actually steam burns on the plastic. There is that much steam in the system and it can not escape.
The cooling system fluid path has to cope with numerous right angle bends that create air bubbles lowering the boiling point and not cooling the sorrounding metal of the block and heads.
Installing a reduction drive pully will aid the pump at higher revs but not fix the problem. The trade off however will be inadequate pump pressure at idle and low engine speeds simply due to a lower pump speed.
We have tried a deceleration tank of some 4 ltrs capacity and cleaning up the external pumbing on the engine itself. But the internal chambers must be so sharp and twisted as the problem is still significant.
The engine reaches operational temperature is such a short period, and that was not by design.
This is the area of Fluid Dynamics and the knowledge may be limited out in the field, but there must be some old school solutions as this is not the first engine to experience these cooling system trates.
I have been questioned as to why bother since the manufacturer has engineered the vehicle to run a certain way. Well ! anyone with a Boss 260 or 290 will testify have well the engine runs on a cool or wet evening. Add some moisture to the air and the engine will really sing.
We are not after additional horsepower, just the full 520 NM of tourque all the time.
Look forward to your support and assistance.

I don't know a great deal about the BOSS motor, but have you tried a modified intake? Upgraded radiator (there is a company that specialises in heavy duty radiators, sorry can't remember who they are )?

This may be a BA issue. While the old boy has never experienced a problem, the temp guage is always hovering around the half way mark (even after ten minutes on start up).

I do remember reading that Ford did have trouble providing acceptable cooling requirements for it's V8's and had to re-design it's front bumper becuase of it.

Maybe see if electric water pumps can be fitted at least you can get the flow rate spot on at all revs as for internally the only thing I can think of getting a flow diagram of the internal water passages and maybe running some external lines.
Hope this helps.

Try these www.meziere.com they have electric water pumps that bolt in where the factory pump is or you could get a davis craig universal electric pump if you have room. also try www.evanscooling.com

Last edited by 351EL on Sun Mar 12, 2006 3:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.

what about a water injection kit, aren't they supposed to help in high rev, high temp situations

I was under the impression that a water injection kit was a bandaid solution to a problem.

But then again, if it works it works I suppose...

The non water system is the way to go if you can afford it I run this system in my GTHO and NEVER have an overheating or cavitation problem