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Cam change, what do I need? 

 

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 Post subject: Cam change, what do I need?
Posted: Thu Sep 28, 2006 8:45 pm 
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Gday,

I am putting in a 21666 Crow cam in my clevo. I need to know what gear I'm going to need such as, gaskets, timing gear?, timing chain?

Im putting on a new set of heads and a new water pump, Is there anything else I should change while im at it? The engine has been rebuilt about 4000km ago before I bought it, so Im not too sure what has already been changed.

Thanks

 

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Posted: Thu Sep 28, 2006 10:12 pm 
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If its only got 4000 on it the timing set should be in perfect condition, just swap in the cam and a new set of lifters, heaps of moly cam lube, best bet is to buy a complete gasket set they are about 70$.

Make sure your valvesprings are in good order, std ones are old and all of them are weak, check what springs are required for that cam.

 

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Posted: Thu Sep 28, 2006 10:15 pm 
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A good double row steel gear set, but if it's been rebuilt then that may have been changed.
You may aswell buy a full gasket set, the only things you wont use are sump and rear main... Cheaper to buy a set than seperate.

Shame you didn't have rollers, i've got a nice Isky FL-380 solid cam sitting in the shed brand new... I bought it about 12 years ago when i was building the last Clevo but never finished it.
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Posted: Thu Sep 28, 2006 11:04 pm 
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I only replaced the lifters 1000km ago. I got the cam for free from my cousin as he wants something a but rougher.

I have a brand spanking new set of 2Viron heads having a port and polish at the moment. Valvesprings will take it no worries double coils rated to 600lift, hardened pushrods, hardened EVL Valves(the black four groove ones), new rockers.

Iv ordered a ACL race gasket kit but I wont be using the head gaskets. I plan to use some good Felpro ones.

Iv been looking through some old threads and found a few mentions of advancing the cam timing to get extra power. How does this make power and what are the downsides?

 

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Posted: Fri Sep 29, 2006 1:14 am 
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Just make sure the springs suit the cam, over springing can be a bad thing.

Advancing the cam will kick the cam in lower in the rev range giving more bottom end, the best way is to actually dial it in.
You'll need a degree wheel and dial indicator along with all the cam specs, it's something that you really need to have a bit of knowledge with.
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Posted: Fri Sep 29, 2006 10:30 pm 
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Ok I dont think I need to go that far with it. The cam is supposed to come in at 1600 anyway. Iv been assured that the springs will work fine with the cam as the shop has built engines with the same cam and spring, valve combo before with good results.

 

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Posted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 3:31 am 
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Well if they know what they're doing then you shouldn't have a problem.
The worst part is having too heavy a spring when running the cam in, most will remove the centre spring before firing up, they run the cam in and then install the centre spring.
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Posted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 8:21 pm 
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Ok, I mite invest in a spring compressor and try that out. I have been looking at the specs of the clevo series engines and noticed that the XC's cams were retarded 4deg to pass emissions regulations. How can you tell what motor you have?

I've been thinking a little more about advancing the cam. Could there be any drawbacks to getting a Crow adjustible a*** and running 2-4deg advance. I dont intend to go searching for the perfect setting, just want to know if 2-4deg would most likely be beneficial.

 

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Posted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 10:13 am 
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If you feel in yourself that 2 deg advance will help then go for it, you wont hurt anything by doing it.

As for spring compressor, i make my own, i notch the end out of an old rocker arm and weld a bar on it for leveridge.
Do you have an air compressor? You'll need one and also a fitting to go into the cylinder to fill it with compressed air to hold the valves up.

I'd talk to the head man first and find out how much seat pressure the springs have, and find out the specs on what springs you need for that cam.
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Posted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 10:48 am 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
Iv ordered a ACL race gasket kit but I wont be using the head gaskets. I plan to use some good Felpro ones.


your wasting your time getting the ACL Race series kit, because in mot of those kits the head gaskets are the only different gaskets...the rest of the gaskets are just ordinary ACL gaskets.....

and it dusnt matter how many ks are on the old lifters, they should still be replaced wen you change cams as the wear of the cam lobe will match the lobe on the lifters, so you dont wana use old lifter with a new cam...you can usually get away with this if your using roller lifter though....
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Posted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 3:39 pm 
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You MUST REPLACE THE LIFTERS when installing a new flat tappet camshaft or your new cam and lifters will eat themselves in minutes!
Also If you insist on using multigroove valves get some Isky machined locks for them. I'd prefer to see the correct valve springs and retainers recommended by Crow for this cam and have them set at the required height in your heads.
Advancing cam timing causes the engine to produce more lower rpm torque and power. Retarding cam timing does the opposite. Often cams are installed a couple of degrees advanced just to account for timing chain stretch over time.
That cam is no biggy so I'd probably install it straight up unless you're running too tall a diff gear for your combo. Make sure you degree your cam when installing it so you know it's accurately ground. Ive seen cams ground 11 degrees out from the spec!

Cheers,
Pete.
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Posted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 4:08 pm 
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I have the appropriate locks for the valves, they are the Isky 4 grooves.

I just went and took the lifters out and there is absolutley no wear on them whatsoever. There isnt even any variation in the polishing lines on the faces. I compared them side by side with a brand new lifter and could not tell the difference....except for oil on the sides. I also checked them with the verniers in about 10 different places and they are exactly the same. I sat down and worked it out and they have done close to 600km.

Ive decided to leave the cam timing as stock as the cam kicks in at 1800 anyways. As for degreeing the cam, how do U go about that?

 

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Posted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 6:46 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
I have the appropriate locks for the valves, they are the Isky 4 grooves.

I just went and took the lifters out and there is absolutley no wear on them whatsoever. There isnt even any variation in the polishing lines on the faces. I compared them side by side with a brand new lifter and could not tell the difference....except for oil on the sides. I also checked them with the verniers in about 10 different places and they are exactly the same. I sat down and worked it out and they have done close to 600km.

Ive decided to leave the cam timing as stock as the cam kicks in at 1800 anyways. As for degreeing the cam, how do U go about that?

Read my reply above about dialing the cam in.
As Pete mentioned you do get some that are way out, but usually with big brand cams they're pretty spot on (Usually).

I'd use new lifters as they're cheap as chips, but if you plan on using them then run plenty of cam lube.
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Posted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 9:46 pm 
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Oh there'll be pleanty of lube dont you worry. I took the lifters around to my mechanic and he didnt hesitate to say they'll be fine to run. Ive got them in containers soaking in oil ready to go in.

 

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Posted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 10:20 pm 
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We seem to have plenty of lube experts here, if you need help just ask them :P
lol
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