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BOTTLEDUP |
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Other way around for the Comp cores, -8 is the SADI core which Comp claims can be run with the factory dissy gear. -9 core is the steel billet, and you need to run either a brass/bronze, steel or carbon composite gear on the dissy.
As for a formula regarding X cam specs = Y result, it unfortunately isn't quite that clear cut... Many other factors come into play such as intake design, headers, compression ratio, cylinder head specs etc. As a general guide if the engine isn't restricted on the intake or exhaust, for every 10° duration added to the cam @0.050" will see the powerband move up 500rpm, assuming the centrelines remain the same.
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Littlefoot |
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Thanks, BOTTLEDUP, This is really good info.
For me, driving is a thrill and driving a fast car is a much bigger thrill but the real joy for me in performance modifications is understanding what it's all doing. Every different model car I've worked on has a whole new learning curve as to what works and what doesn't.
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Littlefoot |
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Called Camtech today, the dude was pretty funny and straight to the point. So I'm happy to deal with him.
Regrind is $275 Springs are $220 He also offered to custom fab a new cam for $495, (which is still cheaper than the cam retailers in Adelaide) Is there any further benefits in this? Eg Should I go more aggressive than the regrind we've discussed?
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BOTTLEDUP |
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Yes John is a good bloke, I've dealt with him quite a bit and have always found his recommendations to be spot on. As for new vs regrind, the advantage of a brand new camshaft will be consistant hardening across all the lobes, no wear to the dissy drive gear and also a greater range of available profiles. If you're happy with the cost pethaps have him spec something for you, but give him as much info about the car and how you'll be using it.
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Littlefoot |
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Alrighty....
Camtech just told me that with my standard compression ratio I can't upgrade my cam. All I can add is 10° duration... Compression of AU 200 is 9.1.1. Mine will be slightly more. What is going on here??
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xafalcon |
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Increasing duration increases overlap which bleeds off compression. A higher computed compression ratio counters this. But a wider lobe separation angle also partially offsets this by reducing overlap for a given intake/exhaust lobe combination. 9.5:1 computed is plenty good for cams up to 220 @ 050. You can run even more duration with your current compression, but the combination is further from optimum.
Roller camshafts usually have higher ramp speed that flat tappet, so make sure the grinder selects from these profiles. This also reduces overlap. Another trick is to run low octane 91 pump fuel - it burns faster than high octane fuel, again partially offsetting the increased overlap. eg XR8 200's & 220's both needed 95 octane and had comp ratio in the low 9's, cam duration around 212 @ 050 Your cam grinder should have a library of 500-1000 lobe profiles. These can be set up for any intake centreline and any lobe separation. I would run a 106° intake centreline and 114-115° lobe separation.
_________________ XA Faimont 351C, AU2 XR8 Manual 5.0, DA LTD 5.0, Mk1 Capri 5.0, 1995 Mustang 5.0, EF2 XR8 Manual, EF2 Fairmont Ghia 5.0, AU3 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Manual Ute, TE Cortina 5.0 Manual, DU LTD 5.0 soon to be manual |
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Littlefoot |
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Another top answer xafalcon. Thank-you.
That all coincides with your re-grind recommendation and BOTTLEDUP's COMP cam that he suggested . I gave Camtech your specs and asked for a regrind but he said (politely) it would run like a dog. I do trust your information, I just can't seem to get any traction when it comes to actually ordering the work. There always seems to be a spanner in the works (or not haha)
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Littlefoot |
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Also as a disclaimer,
This is not a poor reflection on Camtech. He had friendly service. I'm just wondering why he's saying it won't work.
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BOTTLEDUP |
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Ask him if he would do the following lobes? These are his profiles.
Intake lobe 49915LB on a 108 centreline Exhaust lobe 49920 on a 114 centreline
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Littlefoot |
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Today I sat down with Bruce Heinrich, who ran me through the ecu side of things. Might be better to use an EMS stinger rather than a J3 but he's leaving it up to me and how much I want to spend.
He liked the comp cam as it was right in between a lower Crow cam profile and one that was too big. So I'm going to order one. I assume the 545 lift is reduced to 512 because of the rockers?
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BOTTLEDUP |
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Correct if you run it with 1.6 rockers you'll have 0.512" lift.
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xafalcon |
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I can not think of one valid reason for moving away from the Ford ecu, it is more than capable of running the motor you are trying to build. Find someone that is familiar with tuning Ford V8's with Binary Editor & uses Moates hardware, quarterhorse if possible.
Switching to an aftermarket ecu will bring huge and completely unnecessary cost, both in hardware and tuning. Almost certainly won't drive as well either. Out of interest, why was an aftermarket ecu suggested?
_________________ XA Faimont 351C, AU2 XR8 Manual 5.0, DA LTD 5.0, Mk1 Capri 5.0, 1995 Mustang 5.0, EF2 XR8 Manual, EF2 Fairmont Ghia 5.0, AU3 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Manual Ute, TE Cortina 5.0 Manual, DU LTD 5.0 soon to be manual |
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Littlefoot |
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The tuning side of things has more flexibility as he mentioned the J3 might not get it quite right. MAF is taken out completely.
Also I can load multiple tunes.
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TROYMAN |
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{USERNAME} wrote: The tuning side of things has more flexibility as he mentioned the J3 might not get it quite right. MAF is taken out completely. Also I can load multiple tunes. a few things to consider.... you can have multiple tunes with quarterhorse j3 on the factory ecu. one down side of aftermarket ecu's they are more focused on outright power and there closed loop functions are not as refined as the factory ecu and you may loose light cruise economy...also you will loose the sequential injection as ems stinger is batch fire, unless you opt for the more expensive ems 8860... |
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BOTTLEDUP |
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As above...
You cannot match the efficiency of a correctly set up & calibrated MAF system.
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