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| rwoodhams |
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Hey guys,
I've noticed a bit of a trend on the old E series, so I thought I would start a thread on things to replace on Day 1 after buying a 5L E Series. These arnt performance upgrades, rather just to make sure it's well.. you know..running Well I guess it like your dating a girl, you want to drop her before she drops you  So here I go (I'm not mechanically minded..but makes sence): - Hoses, like radiator hoses etc. Hell, replacing radiator probably isnt a bad idea - Spark plugs, ignition leads, rotor, dizzy cap, TFI and coil - Sensors - MAF, HEGO, Knock, TPS, ECT (I am sure I am missing other sensors) - Verify Timing and TPS positioning - Oil and Oil Filter - Petrol Pump and Fuel Filter Rock on.. Woody |
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| WindeX |
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Good thread, I just picked up a 5L and am about to go through the process of all these checks. A lot of these things can be checked before having to be replaced.
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| arm79 |
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Should get a new balancer for good measure too.
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| s-tranzor |
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Heads...
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| rwoodhams |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Should get a new balancer for good measure too. Yeap, I got stung on a balancer as well. Good add. |
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| Sturmovik |
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If its got more than 200k kms id be looking at a new water pump and timing cover.
_________________ 1993 ED XR6 5speed Polynesian Green. Project car. |
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| NCIILANE |
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My Fairlane has over 200k klm's and all I have replaced is the air filter (K&N), plugs (Iridiums as they last forever and are not fun to change
 ), leads, fuel filter and the oil and coolant every 5,000k's.Still runs like a dream and I haven't had to replace any other sensors or hoses yet, but may have been done before by the previous owner  Oh, I did have the radiator rebuilt, so that is deffinately up there on the must do list
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| xr8boy |
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Good thread, but i am a firm believer in "if it aint broke don't fix it" you can open up a can of worms
My experience with E V8's, especially with regards to sensors and electrical systems is that it typically won't show any symptoms of failure until its buggered Other things to check All suspension bushes Gearbox and Engine mounts Tailshaft Uni's Service the injectors Relays and fuses Check all the earth points as these are the most common fault i've found in older cars electrical systems
_________________ New project 5.4l 331ci S380R, 8.2 4.125 Man o war, Billet LAE crank, Jon Kaase Heads, Pauter Rods, JE pistons |
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| The Panel Van Man |
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Top radiator hose is a good one because you can't get one from Supa Cheap on a Sunday, Genuine only. Oxy sensors yes, the rest I agree If it has no fault codes leave it alone. Obviously that does not include general service items. Nearly got the power steer conversion for C2 to saginor pump ready to market, will let you all know when[works like P/S should]. Regards TPVM.
_________________ SALT IS FOR RACING ON. SAUCE IS FOR FISH & CHIPS. |
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| XR9UTE |
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If it's got a K&N(or similar) give the hotwire a squirt with brake cleaner.
Make sure the dog s**t hasn't been squashed were it pushes into the inlet tube resulting in the ingress of unmetered air. Make sure the MAF connector seal hasn't been tipped over inside and stopping the actual connection being made. Make sure there's not a stupidly cold thermostat in it...they only wear your engine out too quick! Make sure, if you have EGR, that the coolant lines are still in place and operating. Make sure some dumb C*** hasn't plugged the BAP sensor into manifold vacuum on series 1 EB's. Couldn't agree more about fuel and coolant areas...fuel filter should be the first thing changed on any car! As far as sensors go I used the same sensors on my 1966 XR 351W in '92, then moved them to my 351C, then onto my next 351W. The Ford racing 70mm plastic MAF has been on all these engines and then a 302 and now back on the last 351w now in an EB!? A lot of harness and sensor failures have to do with baking from the bbq plate on the top of aussie 5.0's and bad grounds. So don't just chuck the bbq plate away because it's ugly! btw There's no knock control on E-series |
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| XHII V8S |
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{USERNAME} wrote: If its got more than 200k kms id be looking at a new water pump and timing cover. Yeah not wrong there. The gasket behind my water pump was leaking so I had it replaced. 3 of the 10 bolts were seized into the timing cover so the timing cover had to come off and two more bolts seized into the block. All in all an expensive job $700 (water pump was $180 alone!) but one that needed doing. Had 210,000klms on it too. You can pretty much expect to replace the cooling system on a car this old I would have thought.
_________________ Pacies & single 2.5'. New manifold to come soon... |
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| efxr8envy |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: If its got more than 200k kms id be looking at a new water pump and timing cover. Yeah not wrong there. The gasket behind my water pump was leaking so I had it replaced. 3 of the 10 bolts were seized into the timing cover so the timing cover had to come off and two more bolts seized into the block. All in all an expensive job $700 (water pump was $180 alone!) but one that needed doing. Had 210,000klms on it too. You can pretty much expect to replace the cooling system on a car this old I would have thought. I just had my timing case cover and water pump replaced with all the raditor hoses done as well it only cost me 600 cash. |
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| rwoodhams |
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{USERNAME} wrote: A lot of harness and sensor failures have to do with baking from the bbq plate on the top of aussie 5.0's and bad grounds. So don't just chuck the bbq plate away because it's ugly! btw There's no knock control on E-series So you saying we should chuck it or not chuck it? I ditched mine a while back as I needed to get at the dizzy.. |
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| NCIILANE |
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He's saying that ditching it because it is ugly is not the only reason. Buy one of the little alloy "5 Litre V8" plates that mounts on top of the intake manifold where the BBQ plate bolts on.
Much nicer and assists in keeping things cool Here's one on ebay, but don't buy this one, I paid half that  http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Au-v8-engine-bad ... 27b2c218ce
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