|
| njb1988 |
|
||
|
Hi Guys,
My wife drives a Ba Fairmont that now has a winging diff. after going to a shop the bloke said the pinion bearing is stuffed. $995 drive in drive out or $895 if i bring in the diff. seems like a good price however i cant afford it at the moment. so i've decided to give it a crack myself but this is the first ford we have ever owned so i have a few questions if any one can lend a bit of advice. #1 i'm told the sub-frame has to be dropped. how is this done and can it be done without a hoist? #2 how difficult are diffs to rebuild? mine has an open center and i have sourced a bearing kit for $200 from bursons. #3 can anybody think of any major problems that could occur doing this myself. I've been playing around with cars for around 10 years and am confident in not stuffing it up but ive never done a diff before. Any help would be gratefully appreciated! |
||
| Top | |
||
| dan_mac20 |
|
|||
|
It's a pain in the a*** to drop the subframe and move it from underneath the car. That being said, it can be done, haha. Done it myself.
You have to get the a*** end up really high on jack stands, then after you disconnect the tailshaft, abs sensors and handbrake cables, you unbolt the front of the trailing/blade arms. You get a trolley jack to support the middle of the frame (I used a metal frame I had lying around on top of the jack for a better support), then unbolt the shocks from the car and the frame, then start unbolting the frame from the car. 18mm deep socket is useful. After it's dropped, completely remove the trailing/blade arms (they get in the way), then crab walk it out sideways. While the frame is out, you might want to check diff bushes and ect. Also the drive shafts are common to get pretty rusted in the hubs, so removing them completely may be difficult. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Mad2 |
|
|||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: It's a pain in the a*** to drop the subframe and move it from underneath the car. That being said, it can be done, haha. Done it myself. You have to get the a*** end up really high on jack stands, then after you disconnect the tailshaft, abs sensors and handbrake cables, you unbolt the front of the trailing/blade arms. You get a trolley jack to support the middle of the frame (I used a metal frame I had lying around on top of the jack for a better support), then unbolt the shocks from the car and the frame, then start unbolting the frame from the car. 18mm deep socket is useful. After it's dropped, completely remove the trailing/blade arms (they get in the way), then crab walk it out sideways. While the frame is out, you might want to check diff bushes and ect. Also the drive shafts are common to get pretty rusted in the hubs, so removing them completely may be difficult. must make sure i don't get one of em!! 
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| dan_mac20 |
|
|||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: must make sure i don't get one of em!! Yeah, a couple of hours work when you know what you're doing, haha |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| snap0964 |
|
|||
|
The bearings seem a bit pricey - does that include the centre bearings too ?? Best replace those while you're at it.
I got my BW 78 kits through this guy http://www.nkaparts.com/index.php?_a=viewCat&catId=28 . I don't know if the BA's run a BW78 like the EF/EL's. Joe from www.gjdiffs.com.au was helpful too - his prices though are only average - I couldn't really get my LSD cones (no, not those type !!) from anywhere else. If you have a range of tools/bits, you can improvise - get a cheap digital luggage scales (the hang/pull type) from the Reject shop, etc - you'll need it to measure bearing preload. Keep the front pinion bearing shim, the centre preload shims, and you can do the collapsible spacer with a rattle gun on the front flange nut - easy does it though. Read up if you have no idea on what I've said - it's not hard, but your preloads need to be done properly. It is time consuming, but can save you heaps $$$.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| njb1988 |
|
||
|
more than helpful guys. thanks heaps. should have my commodore back on the road next week so i can start on the ford soon after. i do have a lot of tools in a large variety so all i should need is the scales!
Thanks legends! |
||
| Top | |
||
| XR9UTE |
|
||
|
A 3V should have an M86 borgy not the M78.
|
||
| Top | |
||
| njb1988 |
|
||
|
just talked to the bloke from nka and i just cut the price by $50!
|
||
| Top | |
||
| Papa Smurf |
|
||
|
I noticed today on Ebay a bloke who does reconditioned diffs for AU with IRS for $700.00, maybe he does BA's too?
{DESCRIPTION} |
||
| Top | |
||
| snap0964 |
|
|||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: just talked to the bloke from nka and i just cut the price by $50! You'll find NKA's kits come with Koyo bearings - Burson's probably quoted on Timkens, which you'll find are most likely fitted originally.If you have a look at the bearing kits the Ebay seller that George linked above, you'll see the price difference. Judging on what I've found on engineering forums, Koyo's come from Japan, have been around for a long time, have bought facilities off Timken. It seems they are reliable, have good quality stds and tolerances - even used on Submarines over Timkens for quietness  .
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| FPV_GTp |
|
||
|
Does anyone have a BA BTr IRS M86 diff in any condition they want to depart company with? sell
Does anyone know the Master Housing Dimension ( MHD ) of the BTr IRS M86 ? save me doing sometime reverse engineering calculations to determine it. BTr Engineering and reputable differential reconditions places don't even know it, or refuse to disclose it , LOL???? cheers
_________________ WANTED - Complete BTr4 and zf 6hp26 automatic transmission 6 cylinder and V8 transmission(s) suit rebuild? Drop me a PM if you can help would be greatly appreciated - thanks |
||
| Top | |
||
| kwaussiekid |
|
||
|
I purchased a complete diff from a dismantler=$200. My som-Brett4777, took it to his place of employ, and put a new set of gears along with new bushes and bearings in it. He just then had to do the change over, fortunately he had a hoist to use. Total cost to me was approx $1000.
_________________ The older I get the better I was! |
||
| Top | |
||
| FPV_GTp |
|
||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: I purchased a complete diff from a dismantler=$200. My som-Brett4777, took it to his place of employ, and put a new set of gears along with new bushes and bearings in it. He just then had to do the change over, fortunately he had a hoist to use. Total cost to me was approx $1000. Hi , maybe you could get Brett4777 to specify the master housing dimentions for the BTR differential range ? or do they just use the paste/pattern (differential gear marking compound) method to check if pinion depth is correct ? Master Housing Dimension for 9" Ford is MHD = 4.375 inches Cheers
_________________ WANTED - Complete BTr4 and zf 6hp26 automatic transmission 6 cylinder and V8 transmission(s) suit rebuild? Drop me a PM if you can help would be greatly appreciated - thanks |
||
| Top | |
||
| kwaussiekid |
|
||
|
I will contact him and let him know about your post.
_________________ The older I get the better I was! |
||
| Top | |
||
| snap0964 |
|
|||
|
What are you trying to do ? - fit gears from a different diff series, or just refit M86 gearing ??
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 21 guests |
